18
Mar 10

Gokarna 2010: Day 3 – Where to stay on Kudle and Om Beach

Date:  1st March, 2010

Since this was my last day in Gokarna, and since I was all by myself, I decided to do things at my own pace.

Woke up at around 10am, did my business in the common restrooms, paid for my room/hut and then checked out. Stocked up on water and said my goodbyes to the staff at Sunset Cafe.

My second post has photos of Sunset Cafe but if you want to call for reservations, the numbers mentioned on the card they gave me are: (0) 94485 26270 & (0) 93410 79315. They have huts and rooms with prices starting from Rs. 250 onwards.

I thought I’d be of service to my readers and friends by checking out a few other options that looked like decent places to stay on Kudle beach.

By far the most expensive hotel on Kudle Beach is Hotel Gokarna International.

Kudle beach Gokarna International hotel

Hotel Gokarna International, Kudle Beach

And by ‘expensive,’ I mean this is the only proper hotel on Kudle beach. Just about everything else offers simple huts and small bricked rooms. Rates here range from Rs. 1200 ($26/€19) to Rs. 1500 ($33/€24) for double rooms. Not all rooms face the sea — so you can imagine which ones cost more. Hotel Gokarna International has a bar and a restaurant serving both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. And don’t worry, no shared bathrooms here.

Kudle beach sign dogs

Kudle beach Sangria cafe guesthouse

Sangria Guesthouse, Ph: 08386329266 (Rate: Rs. 200 - Rs. 800)

Kudle beach pineapple pieces

Pineapple trash on beach (free)

Next up is a funky little place called Jazzmin Cafe & German Bakery. They were fairly accommodating and asked me to take as many photos as I wanted. So I did.

Kudle beach Jazzmin cafeKudle beach Jazzmin cafe Shiva

Kudle beach Jazzmin cafe rooms

The two huts right in front have attached toilets

When I questioned them on prices, they told me it’s best I e-mail them with my “requirements” (e-mail: jazzmincafe@yahoo.com).

Kudle beach Shivprasad guesthouse

This is right next to Jazzmin and the first 'hotel' you'll come across on Kudle

At the other extreme end of Kudle beach is Ganga Cafe, which looked like a pretty decent place too but I couldn’t have been bothered to walk all the way there with all my bags in the hot sun. Sorry.

So with all my bags in tow, I made my way up the rabbit hole for the last time.

Path down to Kudle beachI took it slow as with a laptop on my back, a camera bag on the left shoulder and a tripod on the other — it was literally back-breaking.

I then took the same path over the hill to Om Beach, which is where I decided I’d spend the day before heading back to town. The reason I opted to stay back one more day was to take a lot of videos on my camera (Canon 7D). Of course, I did take photos in between.

Om beach rocks panorama

A panorama comprised of 5 shots

It was already past noon by the time I reached Om Beach so I decided to have an early lunch. I walked into Namaste Cafe, by far the most popular joint on Om Beach and a preferred stay for many who tend to book rooms in advance.

Their restaurant was quite busy as well.

Om beach seafood tandoor platter

Seafood tandoor platter, Rs. 200. Very good!

Om beach Namaste Cafe kitten

And wherever Mithun eats seafood, comes thy kitten

Om beach sleeping puppy

.... and sleeping pups.

Namaste Cafe has a variety of rooms from basic huts to air-conditioned rooms and prices start from Rs. 200 upwards. For more information, call (08386) 257141/ (0) 94481 53643.

Om Beach attracted bus loads of people that day, guessing because some people got holidays for the festival of Holi.

After a long & lazy lunch, I decided to walk up Om Beach and climb up the path to Half-Moon beach. So I asked my waiter if I could leave my laptop bag at a safe location at the restaurant itself. After doing so, with my tripod and camera bag, I set off once again.

I had to wear socks this time as my feet were getting blisters and scratches from my floaters and from walking barefoot on the sand.

Om beach 3 stray dogs

Everyone gets lazy in Gokarna

Om beach Gokarna fisherman boat

Om beach Gokarna kayak rental

Kayak rentals on Om beach

Om beach Dolphin bay cafe

Om beach boat taxisOm beach Hotel GaneshOm beach Lee 3rd rockI took the same path we took the day before.

Om beach water streamOm beach rock divideOm beach view panoramaI stopped at the point from where if you were to take a left turn, you would be on the path to Half-Moon beach.

Gokarna Om to Half-Moon beach

Om tree point panorama

I decided to walk up all the way to that tree point...

Me tree Om beach hill

... and just sit there for some time

Gokarna view Arabian seaGokarna lighthouseGokarna fishing boats

Om beach eagle soaring

Lucky eagle

As it was nearing 5pm, I decided to head back to Om beach.

Om beach distance

Om beach

Om beach Gokarna hillOm beach sunsetOm beach rock boysOm beach boat taxis anchored

Om beach fat woman bikini

The large one is a woman by the way

Back at Namaste Cafe, I collected my laptop bag, washed up, cooled off with a lime soda and then made my way up to the auto stand.

Got into one, and saw the beautiful coastlines of Gokarna one last time while I made my way back into town.

Since I had some time to kill before my boarding the bus, I went to the Gokarna beach area for some photographs.

Gokarna beach camel ride

Gokarna beach Appu tattoo well ad

"Appu Tattoo: You won't BELIEVE where all we can give you a tattoo!"

Gokarna beach bookstoreGokarna town pigeonsGokarna town music instrument storeGokarna town float pandal

Gokarna Shree Venkataraman temple

Shree Venkataraman temple: Sending your messages to god -- and parcels for your uncle too!

Hotel Gokarna International town

Hotel Gokarna International in town

By this point, my camera battery was dying from all the video I recorded during the day. But I couldn’t help but click these posters.

Gokarna town theatre poster sideGokarna town theatre stageI don’t know what the play was about but I would’ve loved to have found out. Going by their faces I’m guessing it involves killing the make-up artist.

Gokarna town theatre posterAfter this, I switched off my camera and made my way to bus. The VRL buses begin at the same spot they drop you in the morning coming from Bangalore. By 6:45pm, it makes it’s way to the town office where it picks up the remaining passengers.

I took this opportunity to go out and grab some grub. I had a sudden yearning to have some ice cream but some stores ran out. Others pointed me to an old rustic coffee shop up the road.

As I patiently waited for the old man at the counter to finish tabulating his bills, I asked for “ice cream”. And then he ran down the list of flavours he had. Going by what he listed, I realized this was home-made ice cream and not the usual mass-produced artificially-flavoured stuff.

I opted for a scoop of mango and he packed one up in a generic ice cream cup with a lid and spoon. All this for how much? Rs. 6 ($0.13).

Gokarna homemade ice cream

It was yum!

In many ways, Gokarna feels like it’s stuck in time. A time and a place where you can get a cup of ice cream for just Rs. 6, where ATMs aren’t available in every nook & corner and amenities are basic at best.

The very same reasons I seemed to love Gokarna. It may not remain like this forever, that’s for sure, but I’m sure about one thing  — I’m definitely coming back!


14
Mar 10

Gokarna 2010: Day 2 – Gokarna town, Kudle Beach and Sunset Cafe

Date: 28th February, 2010

The next day, we woke up and checked out of our rooms as we were going to be out & about until lunch. We took another small hut at Sea Rock cafe (but slightly better than the Rs. 100 one)  to dump our bags — & I needed one for myself as I was going to be spending one more night here. This one cost Rs. 200 ($4). We paid the lady and then headed to town.

We took an auto (cost us Rs. 150) but we couldn’t call the guy who took us yesterday as there is no mobile network coverage on Kudle beach (Airtel and Vodafone — don’t know about the rest).

Gokarna town is a stark contrast from the popular beaches of Gokarna. Conservative, religious, predominantly-Brahmin, laid back. And lots of cows.

Gokarna town old houseWe got dropped near the main temple and since it didn’t look like anything we hadn’t seen before, we didn’t bother going in.

So we just walked around it and headed to the beach.

Gokarna town alley black white

Just tried black & white on this one

Gokarna town temple old housesGokarna temple women cows

Gokarna town beads storeYou’ll find small stores selling jewelry, beads, fashion accessories and godly merchandise among a few restaurants en route to the beach.

Road to Gokarna beach

Gokarna beach panorama

Gokarna beach: Panorama comprised of 8 shots

This is the main beach in Gokarna and it’s quite a big stretch. It’s where the locals throng and visiting pilgrims frequent the most.

And because of that, it’s also the most trashed and crowded beach in Gokarna. We didn’t bother checking it out or walking down the stretch as it really didn’t offer anything special. So we headed back.

Gokarna town beach canalGokarna town bridgeGokarna town cowsGokarna town housesGokarna town music instruments storeWe had plans to rent bikes and head for Murudeshwar, which was 80kms from Gokarna but we dropped it in case we were late in getting back. All except I were returning to Bangalore that day and the bus was at 7:15pm. In case you wanted to know, the bikes cost Rs. 300 and above, depending on the kind of bike you want (or at least that’s what the renters told me.)

We roamed around town in search of ATMs.

Gokarna town temple floatGokarna town temple floatGokarna town shadeGokarna town Rajat laundry shopGokarna spice street vendorGokarna town old woman houseAfter withdrawing money from the State Bank of India (there was also a Karnataka Bank ATM), we headed back to Kudle beach for lunch. You won’t find restaurants selling the kind of food you get at Om, Kudle, etc. in Gokarna town. Most eateries are strictly vegetarian.

Gokarna beach auto ride to Kudle

Gokarna beach in the distance

Gokarna to Om beach hillHeading to Kudle Om beach GokarnaGokarna to Kudle auto journey

Kudle beach panoramic view

Kudle beach from high above

Once we got back to our room, we checked out again. Why?

Well, there’s an old guy at Sea Rock Cafe who is always drunk and high. The previous night he was chasing a young couple and hurling abuses at them in Kannada. He chased them walking but when they stopped, the old man stopped. Basically he was drunk and was causing a ruckus. But fell short of actually hurting anyone.

Well, he did it again in the afternoon. First joking and then again hurling abuses at everyone. Then he turned his attention to us. He never touched us but we were getting very annoyed. Finally our Kannadiga friend had enough and went to complain to the lady who basically runs the place.

Instead of doing something about their old man, she instead gave our money back and told us if we wanted to leave, we could. So we did.

And then we went next door. We asked Sunset Cafe if they had a room for just me and they showed me a Rs. 250 hut. It was sooooo much better that we didn’t hesitate. We took it, dumped our bags in there and then sat at the cafe for lunch.

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna

Sunset Cafe on Kudle beach

It was 4pm and we had plenty of time until my friends had to leave to catch their bus. So we began our long (and lazy) lunch.

Sunset cafe chicken sandwich

Chicken sandwich, Rs. 85 (very good for the price)

As the sun moved towards us, we moved a table away from it.

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna inside

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna Ramesh

Ramesh lazing while waiting for food to arrive

Sunset cafe hairy chest guy

That's not a grey t-shirt he's wearing. Just sayin'.

Sunset cafe Kudle beach seafood pizza

Seafood pizza, Rs. 120 (really good!)

Sunset cafe Kudle beach pizza cat

Sharing seafood pizza with hungry kitten. Hmm...

Come 6 ‘o’ clock, it was time for my friends to collect their bags and head for their buses. So I walked with them until the end of the stretch.

Kudle beach Gokarna internet cafeKudle beach sunset dogs

I guess what I liked about Gokarna best were the beaches but also, the kind of people who thronged this place. Take for example these Swiss hippies. One of them was playing a instrument called Hang. It was a unique sound produced on a steel vessel-like instrument. Check it out:

I liked it so much, I even bought the guy’s CD.

After we said our goodbyes and I walked back.

Kudle beach tourists playing

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna hippies

Hippies watching the sun set listening to the Hang

After sun set, I took bath in the common washrooms (as most huts don’t have an attached toilet) and watched the movie ‘City of God‘ on my laptop. (Very good movie by the way)

After that, I attempted night photography.

Sunset cafe Kudle beach full moon

It was another full moon night

Sunset cafe Kudle beach shacks

Sunset cafe Kudle beach shacks huts

The hut on the right was mine. Now this is proper 'ocean view'.

Kudle beach night sky bonfire

Sunset cafe Kudle shack room inside

Inside my hut. So much better than Sea Rock's huts.

Sunset Cafe is a much better deal than Sea Rock Cafe and I’m glad we shifted. I can recommend this place over Sea Rock any day!

I enjoyed my sleep a tad better than last night‘s.


07
Mar 10

Gokarna 2010: Day 1 – Trekking from Kudle -> Om -> Half Moon -> Paradise beach

Date: 27th February, 2010

Four guys. Another trip.

We had already been to Goa and after Thailand, I decided not to waste anymore money in India’s much-hyped party destination. So instead, we decided to head to Gokarna in Uttara Kannada, a coastal town 3 hours before Goa.

Gokarna is actually famous for being a spiritual temple town. But of course, that’s not how most young (& in-the-know) Indians know it.

We thought about driving down but seeing that it was going to be a 10-plus hour drive (453 kms from Bangalore) and that we were only planning on a weekend trip, it seemed like a waste of a day. Train options were slim as well. So we opted for bus, which turns out, is how most people go to Gokarna.

We booked our tickets on RedBus.in and opted for VRL’s buses as the timing and prices suited us. Three of us decided to just spend one night while I decided to stay two nights in Gokarna.

We left on Friday night from our offices, took the Volvo bus to Majestic bus stand and made our way to Anand Rao Circle, which was going to be our pick-up point. We had dinner from nearby and waited for our bus, which finally picked us up at 9:45pm.

The bus was just a standard semi-sleeper (push-back seats below with sleeper beds on top) and we were scheduled to arrive by 8am the next morning.

I tried to sleep in my sleeper bunk but barely managed to as I always find it hard to get sleep in rattling buses.

None the less, we arrived in Gokarna at around 8:45am. The buses stop at the point from where one can take an auto or drive down to the coast. Gokarna maybe a coastal town but the beaches most people want to hang out at are 6kms away from the town.

We hired an auto in which the four of us with our luggage somehow crammed ourselves in. The ride wasn’t comfortable but he was charging us Rs. 100 (which we would later realize is at the lower end of the spectrum).

We got to Kudle beach and the auto driver told us that if we ever needed a ride back to town, we could call him (his name is Jalander, mobile no: (0)97412 69429)

The thing about Kudle beach is, you have to park your vehicle on top and climb down the hill to get to the beach.

Kudle beach car parking area

To the left is the path down to Kudle Beach

We made our way down the steps and finally on to Kudle beach.

Kudle beach shacks

Kudle Beach, Gokarna

Prior to leaving Bangalore, I had asked my friends who had visited Gokarna where to stay and one regular suggested I try Sea Rock Cafe — a place he frequented. So we walked up to the “shack” and asked them if they had rooms. An old man there showed us to the rooms with attached toilets, which were a bit inside.

The rooms pretty much everywhere in Gokarna are basic at best (I’ll write about stay options in detail in a later post). The room we were shown with a fan and attached toilet (& the only one that was available) cost Rs. 300 ($6 – yes, that’s how basic we are talking!). Since the other rooms in that row were occupied and we really needed a place to dump our bags quickly, we took it.

Sea rock cafe room Kudle gokarna

Looks cute from the outside doesn't it? Yeah, anything but cute from the inside!

The “bed” was a mattress on a stone base… with the mattress being as hard as the stone beneath it. The room had a mosquito net and the fan — well, it worked. No matter at which speed you turned it to, it was the same.

One of us, Ramesh, wasn’t too happy with the room and asked if there were better to be found. So as two of us held the fort (in case we found no other options elsewhere), me & another friend (Anand) went along the entire stretch of Kudle Beach in search of better rooms. Most places were full and the rooms that were vacant were shoddier than the one we got at Sea Rock Cafe. So, we made our way back.

The ‘bricked’ room we got was only a double room so we had to ask for another double room. They only had Rs. 100 ($2) mud huts vacant — so we took one.

After freshening up, we went for breakfast. I forgot the name of the restaurant but it was the cafe before the Tibetan-run joint.

Kudle cafe breakfast

All four us were ready to click a lot (Photo taken on Nokia E72)

After a good breakfast, we prepared for our exploration of Gokarna’s popular beaches. We decided to trek from Kudle Beach to Om Beach. Everyone told me it was just a short walk over the hill but the others weren’t too keen and opted to go by auto.

I chose to trek.

Gokarna Kudle beachI climbed back up to the parking area…

Climbing Kudle beach… and just started climbing the rocks…

Kudle to Om Beach trekking over the hill… followed the path through the small trees…

Kudle to Om beach trekking… passed the Dolphin Cafe down below…

Kudle to Om Beach Dolphin cafe… stopped and stared at the place and imagined how cool it would be if I had a house down there…

… descended down, got to the point where the autos were parked and…

Om Beach stepping down

... voila! Om Beach

Om Beach is by far the most popular beach in Gokarna. Mostly because of its distinct shape from where it gets its name. We skipped on the chance to stay on Om Beach because we felt it being so popular, it would be very crowded and Kudle would have been a better place to base ourselves. But we realized we weren’t the only ones who thought like that because we saw as many people on Om as Kudle itself.

Oh, by the way, the time I took to reach Om beach was the exact amount of time it took for my friends to arrive in their auto. So just take my advice, if you can walk a bit, just climb over instead of wasting Rs. 60 on auto. It will only take you 10 to 15 minutes.

Om beach Gokarna sandOm beach boat taxisThere were boat taxis anchored on the shores offering boat rides to Half-Moon beach and Paradise beach but they were asking for Rs. 500 — which we thought was a bit much. We could see a path in the distance at the end of Om Beach, so we decided to just keep on walking.

Om beach shacks restaurants

Options to eat at are adequate on Om Beach

Om beach Goa

Somebody needs to tell this guy he's at the wrong place

Once we reached the end of Om Beach, we began our ascend once again.

Om Beach to Half Moon stones

Om beach rock divide

You'll come across this divide

Om beach to Half-Moon trekAs you climb higher, you’ll get a great view of Om Beach.

Om Beach Gokarna high up

Om Beach

Walk up further and you’ll come across a distinct looking tree from where you need to take a left turn.

Om Beach to Half-Moon trek treeOm Beach to Half-Moon leftFollow the path…

Om beach to Half-Moon path

Om beach to Half-Moon dug path

… stop & stare out into the beauty of the Arabian sea…

Om beach to Half-Moon palm treesHalf Moon beach GokarnaHalf-Moon Beach Gokarna Arabian sea… descend down…

Half Moon beach Gokarna… welcome yourself to Half Moon Beach…

Half-Moon beach shack… watch hippie white dude practice with a ball…

Half-Moon beach ball guy… reward yourself!

Half-moon beach shack beerIt was hot and we were yearning to quench our thirst with some chilled beer. Plus, the trek was awesome!

We were feeling quite satisfied that we opted to trek instead of hiring a boat. It took us around 30 minutes including stopping to take photographs. Well worth the walk. We were all the more pumped and decided to conquer the final beach via a trek too.

Of course, we decided to take a break first! We sat in an isolated ‘cafe’ on Half-Moon beach, cooled off a bit and had some light snacks before setting off again.

Half-Moon beach Dama cafe

Dama cafe: We were reluctant initially as it was empty when we arrived

There aren’t many shacks on Half-Moon but then again, it isn’t a very big stretch. We quite liked the thickly sliced deep-fried potato chips at Dama Cafe. Beer was Rs. 100 for a full bottle of Kingfisher.

They had basic rooms and a clean toilet at the back. Looked like a decent place to stay at Half Moon beach.

Half-Moon beach Dama cafe insideWe asked the guy there how to get to Paradise beach and he told it would only take us 15 minutes. So, with glee, we set off again.

Half-Moon beach Dama cafe sideHalf-Moon to Paradise beach trekYou’ll come to a point you have to cross over a barbed wire fence (don’t worry, we didn’t see a sign saying we were trespassing or anything).

Paradise beach Gokarna trek barbed wireHalf-Moon to Paradise beach trek rocksHalf-Moon to Paradise beach Gokarna trekYou’ll pass some shacks…

Half-Moon to Paradise beach shacksHalf-Moon to Paradise beach Gokarna… climb up, climb down…

Half-Moon to Paradise beach climbParadise beach Gokarna trek tree branchesHalf-Moon to Paradise beach panorama… wish you could soar above these coastlines like an eagle to get a bird’s-eye-view…

Paradise beach eagle GokarnaParadise beach Gokarna coastParadise beach Gokarna trek… before you get to ‘paradise’.

Paradise beach GokarnaParadise beach plastic bottle treeNow don’t get your hopes up or anything. Paradise beach isn’t that much better than all the other beaches you pass through, but it is bigger than Half-Moon beach.Paradise beach Gokarna touristsParadise beach Cafe Paradise

Paradise beach boat taxi

Pfff, lazy people

Paradise beach pirate flagWe really felt a sense of accomplishment having trekked the entire stretch of Gokarna’s popular beaches. It wasn’t planned but I guess that was what partly made it all the more fun.

And since it was past 3pm at this point, we decided to lunch.

Paradise beach resortI forgot the name of the place we sat down but it was the only open air “resort” like place there, which is why we were drawn to it.

Clicked some more after we had ordered our food.

Paradise beach Gokarna boardParadise beach Gokarna boatsParadise beach GokarnaThe food was just about okay.

Paradise beach resort pita bread

The pita bread was nothing more than a thick naan

Paradise beach resort pizza

Pretty decent pizza

I’ve been on treks before but never before by the coast. The views were awesome and I loved exploring the routes. It really was an adventure.

Having said that, we were tired and in no mood to trek all the way back. So we got on to a boat taxi and made our way back to Om Beach (fare Rs. 100 per person, taking a boat back to Kudle costs more).

Paradise to Om beach boat ride

Gokarna from boat taxiIt was nice to see the terrain we covered from another viewpoint.

Gokarna hill from boat taxi

Om beach Gokarna kayak

If you can't trek, you could try kayaking too

Om beach rock from boatOm beach boat taxi anchoredThe boat ride barely last 5 minutes but it reminded me of a similar one I took in Railay, Thailand.

Back on Om Beach, the guys decided to take an auto back to Kudle beach while I decided to walk back.

Om beach cart GokarnaOm beach Appu tattoo GokarnaOm to Kudle beach sunsetOm to Kudle beach parking areaBack at Kudle, I re-grouped with my friends and we made our way back down to the beach.

Kudle beach Gokarna sunsetKudle beach sunset dogKudle beach yoga sunsetKudle beach boat sunsetKudle beach dog Gokarna sunsetAs you can make out from the above photos, it was nearing sunset, so I headed back to our room and freshened up.

Sea Rock cafe Kudle beach GokarnaAfter a cool bath, I packed up my laptop and went to the beach.

Sea Rock cafe Kudle beach mud hut

The hut on the right is the other room we took at Sea Rock Cafe

One of the intentions I had for this trip was to try out time-lapse photography.

I had to carry my laptop and use the software from Canon to remotely control my camera as I did not have a dedicated remote/intervalometer. They’re expensive, so I had to make do with something free for the time-being. Also, this was going to be a learning experience for me as it was the first time I was trying timelapse.

First experiment: capture the sun setting. How did it turn out? I’ll share the results later.

Kudle beach Gokarna full moon

As the sun set on one side, the moon came up the other

After I got all my shots, I packed everything up and went to the joint next door to Sea Rock called, Sunset Cafe (& German Bakery).

We just sat there from evening…

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Loiyumba Anand Phadke

Left: Loiyumba - Right: Anand Phadke

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Mithun Ramesh

Left: Mithun - Right: Ramesh

… until night.

Sunset cafe night Loiyumba Anand PhadkeNibbling on snacks and sipping beer. What else is there to do? There was a beach party at one of the other hotels but the music didn’t interest me much. So with camera in hand, we just sat at Sunset Cafe well past sunset.

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna night

Sunset Cafe at night

Sunset cafe Kudle beach Gokarna lightsAfter dinner, it was one cool walk on the beach before hitting the rock sack.

Kudle beach Gokarna full moon

Luminous full moon

As the guys went back to the room, I thought I’d try my hand at time-lapse again, as it was a starry night.

Kudle beach Gokarna starry night

Took many such frames

I was drawing quite a lot of attention with my laptop in hand and a camera on a stand pointing at the night sky. A lot of passers-by stopped and asked in their various accents as to what I was doing — and I replied back in my accent, a lay-man’s definition of what time-lapse photography is.

Unfortunately, my laptop battery didn’t last the entire shoot so I had to stop at 50 less shots than programmed. (I may seriously have to invest in a remote). Oh well, will see how it turned out anyway.

I packed up in the dark, and headed back to the room.

Sea Rock cafe Kudle beach room nightAfter a bit of before-sleep chatter, we finally called it a night. Ramesh and Anand took the ‘bricked room’ while myself and Loi slept in the non-fan, non-toilet mud hut.

Not the best sleep I had but the fact that we were quite tired and we tried to drink ourselves to sleep, we managed to pull through.

We had to, for some of us, the next day would have been the last in Gokarna — and there was still much to do!

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