Gurdwara entrance sikhs Bangkok Thailand

Thailand 2010: Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha, Sampeng Market, JJ market (again)

Date:  28th November 2010

I began today with a taxi ride to Phahurat Raod.

House Lumpini building Silom Bangkok Thailand
Drove towards Silom first

Silom buildings Bangkok Thailand

Silom HSBC building Bangkok Thailand
A lot of financial firms have offices in Silom
DTAC telecom headquarters Bangkok Thailand
DTAC is Thailand’s second largest mobile service provider

Wat temple Silom Bangkok

China town daytime Bangkok Thailand
Drove through China Town again
Thanon Chakphet road Bangkok slums
Got down at Chakphet road

Chakphet street food stalls Bangkok

Fried fruit street hawker Bangkok Thailand
Batter-fried fruit

Phahurat market Chinese sweet shop Bangkok

Thanon Phahurat road Bangkok Thailand
Reached Pahurat road

Thanon Pahurat road shops Bangkok Thailand

Gurudwara Sikh point sign Pahurat road Bangkok
I could see a sign stating Gurudwara Sikh, but all it pointed to was a wall of shops on the side of the road I was on

Old Siam plaza Bangkok Thailand

Pahurat market shops Bangkok
I still waded through Pahurat market

Figuring the gurdwara was behind the shops, I found a gap and walked into an alley. There, an old Thai man saw me and just raised his arm to point to where I needed to go. I guessed I wasn’t the first Indian he may have come across in search of the elusive gurdwara.

Pahurat Bangkok alley way to gurdwara
Kept wondering how much more I had to walk to find it…
Bangkok gurdwara Indian temple Thailand
…but there it was (finally!)
Way to gurdwara Bangkok alley
The ‘desis’ were in sight 🙂

Shops near gurdwara Bangkok ThailandMarket near gurdwara Little India Bangkok

Gurdwara Sir Guru Singh Sabha Bangkok Thailand
Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha

You can read about the history of the gurdwara at their official site, but apparently Sikhs have been in Thailand since the early 1900s. Gurdwara entrance sikhs Bangkok ThailandAll non-Sikhs have to cover their heads with a scarf, which they provide by the stairs in the main hall.

Gurdwara scarfs Bangkok Thailand
Pick one

You also have to take off your shoes if you want to go upstairs. They have a big shoe rack in the main hall and you get a token.

Gurdwara main hall Sikhs blood donation Bangkok
The Sikhs were being their charitable self today with a blood donation camp
Gurdwara main hall fans Bangkok
The 6-storey gurdwara is one of the largest outside India
Gurdwara Langar hall Bangkok Thailand
The first floor is a Langar hall, where visitors and devotees had sat down for the free meals
Gurdwara wedding hall Bangkok sikhs
The floor above it looked like it was hall used for weddings and other events
Gurdwara prayer hall Bangkok Thailand
Above that was the main prayer hall

Gurdwara Sri Guru Singh Sabha prayer hall Bangkok

Gurdwara prayer hall Bangkok Sikh kid photobomb
This kid was waiting for his chance to ‘photobomb’ this shot
Gurdwara Sikh classrooms Bangkok Thailand
The fourth floor is a school
Gurdwara old Sikh lady Bangkok Thailand
The fifth floor was a hall with rooms…
Gurdwara Bahi Dharam Singh Bangkok Thailand
… with priests (I assume?)
Gurdwara Sikh guru rooms Bangkok Thailand
Not sure what this signifies or what they preach

Gurdwara window Bangkok ThailandChinaworld building Pahurat Bangkok

Gurdwara entry Pahurat road Bangkok
That looked like a more accessible entry
Gurdwara top floor Bangkok Thailand
I had reached the top
Gurdwara prayer hall carpet Bangkok Thailand
So naturally, I went back down

Gurdwara Guru Granth Sahib prayer Bangkok ThailandGurdwara Punjabis prayer hall Bangkok ThailandGurdwara Punjabi men praying Bangkok Thailand

Gurdwara Punjabi women praying Bangkok Thailand
The sexes are segregated in order to maintain ‘concentration’ it seems

Gurdwara Punjabis praying Guru Granth sahib Bangkok Thailand Gurdwara sikh women praying Bangkok ThailandGurdwara Sikh men praying Bangkok Thailand

Gurdwara prayer hall Bangkok Thailand
Assuming the prayers were over, I went down
Gurdwara Indian food hall Bangkok
Decided to eat

As much as I love Thai cuisine, after nearly two weeks, eating simple dal curry, sabzi (vegetables) and chapathis felt soooo good.

Feeling full, I went all the way back down, collected my shoes and left the gurdwara.

Pahurat market outside gurdwara Bangkok
Stepped out to a world where samosas and spring rolls are sold side-by-side
Pahurat textile market clothes Bangkok Thailand
Now to get back out…
Pahurat textile market prices Bangkok Thailand
I walked through the Pahurat textile market
Pahurat textile market Bangkok Thailand
I finally came out through here
Rajamangala University of Technology Rattanakosin Poh Chang campus
Rajamangala University of Technology was across the road

Here’s a map to give you a better idea:

Gurdwara Pahurat map Bangkok
(Image source: Google Maps)
Nightingale Olympic Company building Pahurat Bangkok
I moved on

Nightingale Olympic Company building Bangkok

Triphet road traffic crowds Bangkok
I was on the hunt for Sampeng Market next
Triphet road junction traffic Bangkok
The traffic scene here is *quite* different from the Sukhumvit side

After a bit of asking around, I was directed to Sampeng Market.

Sampeng market entry lane Bangkok
This wasn’t the main entrance or anything. Just one of many lanes in.
Sampeng Chinese market Bangkok Thailand
Sampeng market is known to be an integral part of China Town

Chinese idol worship Sampeng alley Bangkok

Sampeng Chinese market bags Bangkok
The lanes eventually all meet at one main straight path…
Sampeng market clothes CDs Bangkok Thailand
…which extends a long way

Sampeng market is a massive space with stores selling, well, just about everything: clothes, Chinese medicines, other Chinese specialties, toys, households items, pirated CDs and anything else China mass produces.

Sampeng market Sunday Thais Bangkok
Today being a Sunday, it was very crowded!
Sampeng textile market crowded Bangkok Thailand
Thus, very stuffy… and quite suffocating at times

Sampeng Chinese market accessories toys Bangkok

Sampeng market crowds traders Bangkok Thailand
It’s through one narrow lane visitors, traders and porters all the pass through

Sampeng isn’t for everyone. It’s quite congested inside (or I assume it’s like this every weekend) and it can get very hot. Also, I didn’t find much of the merchandise to my liking, so unless you want loads of stationary for your kids, cheap, then Sampeng is the place… if you feel it’s worth the effort. I only stopped to buy one of those inflatable travel pillows/neck rests (cost ฿50).

Sampeng market open road Bangkok Thailand
I finally got out and I had the option to move to the next section
Sampeng market Chinatown Bangkok Thailand
Instead, I wasn’t confident I’d find anything more worth buying and therefore, decided to end my Sampeng trek
Ratchawong road Bangkok Thailand
If you want to get a good starting point at Sampeng market, this is the road to get to first
Chinatown Bangkok morning Thailand
The main China Town area was just a few steps away

I still felt like ‘buying something,’ so decided to head back to my favourite ‘market’ in Thailand.

Silom way to Sathon Bangkok
Took a taxi to the nearest BTS station
Victory Monument from BTS Bangkok Thailand
Victory Monument, as seen from inside the train

Victory Monument Bangkok Thailand

Nichkhun Thai ad BTS skytrain commercial
“Thai Prince” Nichkhun was selling something (one of the many products he shills for in Thailand)
Chatuchak market roof Clock Tower Bangkok
Yup, back to Chatuchak market
Chatuchak market from above Bangkok Thailand
That’s what it looks like from up above
Chatuchak Park stage Bangkok
Walked past the park again
Chatuchak weekend market gate us Bangkok Thailand
I plunged in
Chatuchak market rock band t-shirts Bangkok Thailand
I was eying some more good t-shirts, among other things

Though most clothes shops sell more or less the same merchandise, there are a few (relatively speaking) independent studios selling something creative that sets them apart from the rest.

Paracetamol Studio t-shirts Chatuchak market Bangkok Thailand
This was one such shop

Called Paracetamol Studio, the guy in the photo above says he does all the drawings and art himself, and then prints them on t-shirts and bags. I really liked his art and ended up buying three t-shirts at ฿300 each. He wouldn’t allow for bargaining but if you bought more, the price per t-shirt comes down.

Ladies fashion boutique stores Jatujak market Bangkok Thailand
There are more such ’boutique’ stores
JJ market art studios paintings home furnishings Bangkok Thailand
You also have studios selling paintings and other works of art too

I just can’t recommend Jatujak market enough! There’s a reason why I like coming here. The variety of things you find is simply amazing. A lot of it is inexpensive and the rest, still rather affordable.

Jatujak Sunday market Bangkok Thailand
But do get here early in the morning if you plan to cover as much of this place as possible

Because despite coming here for a third time, I still can’t tell you how much of Chatuchak Weekend Market I have covered!

Chatuchak weekend market map Bangkok Thailand
If you asked me where Paracetamol Studio is located on this map, I couldn’t possibly tell you

So if you wish to return to a store you once shopped from, take my advice, note down the store number.

Chatuchak market Clock Tower Bangkok
This clock tower is one of the most important landmarks at Jatuchak. Important, because it stands high above the shops and can be used a point of reference in case you get lost (which will happen!)
Chatuchak market clock tower porters Bangkok Thailand
The clock tower is also where you can find porters in case you buy more than you can carry

Chatuchak weekend market cheap t-shirts clothes Bangkok Thailand

Jatujak weekend market shops Bangkok
It was lunch time and I reached the phase where one wonders if they are walking around in circles
Beeberry Mangosteen juice Chatuchak Bangkok
Tried this on the way out
Chatuchak market tattooed Thai famous crocodile skin Bangkok
This guy is a bit of a celebrity here at JJ market

Just as I was rushing out, I stopped by a store that sells genuine rock band t-shirts, many of which are seconds, but in very good condition and well washed. I finally managed to score a Def Leppard (my favourite band) Hysteria t-shirt and got it bargained down to ฿300 with the excuse it was my last night in Thailand. I was quite happy 🙂

Siam Paragon Krispy Kreme line doughnuts Bangkok
Back at Siam Paragon, there was still a big line for Krispy Kreme

I called up my friend Sawmteii as we had agreed to meet for lunch, but she was still busy with family.

Siam BTS interchange station Bangkok Thailand
Siam BTS interchange. One train plys the Siam line, the other, the Silom line

I therefore headed back to my room, freshened up and got my ticket printed for tonight’s Jay Park fan meet at Siam Paragon.

I have already written about the Jay Park fan meet in another post, which you can read here.

After the fan meet, I went to a supermarket to pick up snacks and other items to pack in now itself as I was leaving Thailand tomorrow.

2pm Nichkhun prawn crackers chips Thailand
Bought some prawn chips, and this one had Nichkhun and his fellow 2PM members on the packet

As I was packing and trashing unwanted covers, I ended up having a right laugh reading the instructions on the Chinese travel pillow I had bought from Sampeng earlier in the day.

Chinese travel pillow Sampeng Bangkok

My Thai Airways flight was at night, so I still had tomorrow morning to do something. Which means, there’s one more post before I conclude this trip! 🙂

Final post in this series:

Thailand 2010: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market tour, Cobra show… and leaving Bangkok

Previous posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: Back to Bangkok — Chinatown, Patpong, Platinum Mall and Chatuchak Market

Thailand 2010: Pattaya — Beach road, Viewpoint, Jomtien Beach, Walking Street

Thailand 2010: Golden Triangle in Mae Sai; Chiang Rai’s White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

Thailand 2010: Heading to Chiang Rai by bus, Wat Jedyod and Golden Clock Tower

Thailand 2010: Last day of Loi Krathong; Sunday Grand Parade (Day 4, Part 2)

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Zoo (Day 4, Part 1)

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Loi Krathong celebrations; first Grand Parade

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai cooking class; Loi Krathong celebrations in Mae Jo, Sansai

Thailand 2010: First day in Chiang Mai for Loi Krathong; driving up Doi Suthep

Thailand 2010: Arriving in Bangkok and preparing for Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai

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  • The Indian guy fromTexas


    This is an interesting and commendable pictorial diary. My only regret. Here is a fellow Indian who seems to know next to nothing about the Sikh Religon and judging from his own comments has obviously no knowledge or even a clue about other Indian religions. I am a proud son of the Sikhs, but that never prevented me from reading and understanding Tulsi Dass’s ” RAM CHARIT MANAS”. At the age of 75 and after 4 decades in the USA, I can still recite, from memory, many stanzas of Ramayana (in old Hindi) and the Bhagwad Gita in Sanskrit. Recommend you visit the Sis Ganj Gurudwara on your next visit to Delhi for half a day- preferably on a Sunday and collect some informative books about the Sikhs. The Sikhs are as much a part of your heritage as it is mine. Best wishes.



    We are a gaggle of volunteers and starting a new scheme in our community. Your site provided us with helpful info to work on. You have done a formidable process and our whole neighborhood can be thankful to you.

  • Gurdev Singh


    Sri Guru Singh Sabha, Bangkok

    Waheguru ji Ka Khalsa Waheguru ji Ki Fateh,

    I, 78 alongwith my mother 99 both world champions while participating in 2013 World Senior Games held in St.George, Utah. My mother is the only women athlete from India who holds four world records in Track and Field. I have more than 70 medals won from various countries. I am helping people by visiting various gurdwaras in Canada and US to fight diabetes with food only. Taking one pc. of bread by the diabetic person the blood sugar level goes up. But the way I ask them to make Indian Style bread and on the first day they can check their fasting blood sugar level and then after taking these roties to their full the blood sugar level will remain in normal range if it is not already higher than the normal range. However in that case too the blood sugar level not increase much. Even the people who are taking insulin injections have benefited from this diet.

    I am a permanent resident of Canada and have toured Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton and Toronto area and presently I am in Prince George.

    I show a practical demo of the diet I recommend wherever I go. It helps because when one take part in a practical working of the diet.

    I do not charge any money from anyone but want them to tell others about the way they have benefited from this diet.

    One of the users of my diet from US has sent me an email that he started one year back to tackle the problem of diabetes but he got so many other health problems solved. He sent the following data after using my diet plan for one year:

    Before (Sep 2014) After (August 2015)
    Blood Sugar 120 105
    Blood Pressure 145/88 128/78
    Cholesterol 136 129 (this should be less than 200)
    .. .. .. HDL 33 38 (should be over 40)
    NON HDL 103 91
    Triglyceride 261 138 (This should be less than 150)
    My Weight 185 170

    I can show in presence of doctors the results from as many people as they want. I can go places and train any number of persons who may wish to do free service for the ailing humanity and at the same time we can reduce burden on Health spending. I am presently in India and am visiting Bangkok on 11th of this month and would be staying there for about a week. I can visit your place to show my skill and am confident that people would benefit from the way I would guide them.

    With regards,

    Gurdev singh

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