Browse Month

October 2011

Coldplay – ‘Mylo Xyloto’ album review: It’s more pop, but it’s still great music

Let me state this first: Coldplay are one of my favourite bands from the last decade, alongside Keane and Linkin Park. And like Linkin Park, they began their rise to worldwide fame in 2000 – and like the American band, have sold in excess of 50 million albums – and just like them, Coldplay are popular on every continent on earth. The only thing that sets the two bands apart are their style of music — which couldn’t be more different.

But what has Coldplay become?

Back at the time of Parachutes, they were considered ‘indie’. Then that very album made them a ‘mainstream’ act, and they kept getting more and more popular with A Rush of Blood to the Head, and my personal favourite Coldplay album X & Y. The band hit their absolute peak* two years ago with Viva La Vida… or Death and All His Friends. Coldplay are now a bona fide stadium band. Epic songs with massive sing-a-long moments and grandeur productions with each new album.

But with Mylo Xyloto, Coldplay seems to have turned it down a notch. Well, at least that’s they promise.

Coldplay Mylo Xyloto album cover new
Mylo Xyloto is Coldplay's 5th studio album

1. “Mylo Xyloto” – The album kicks off with a mesmerizing 40-second xylophone instrumental

2. “Hurts Like Heaven” – A fun, fast paced track which reminded me a lot of U2’s early songs from the 1980s (like “Out of Control“). This song was on the set list for Coldplay’s recently concluded festival tour, and after hearing the studio version, I feel this song sounds so much better live. Not a huge fan of the vocal effects they added to some of the lines, but none the less, a great lively song to kick things off . – 4/5

3. “Paradise” – The second single they released before the album came out. At first listen, I wondered if Chris Martin’s friendship with Jay-Z was starting to influence the music because “Paradise” has traces of an urban influence. Keeping their stadium-status alive, Coldplay trains the listener so you know when to start clapping and which part to sing along to by the time you see the band play live. For a second single before the album even came out, my hopes were high — because I was reminded how “Viva La Vida” succeeded “Violet Hill”. “Paradise”  just doesn’t seem to have ‘wow’-ed me like I hoped I would have. – 3.5/5

4. “Charlie Brown” – Of all the new songs Coldplay played on their festival tour, this was the one song that instantly won me over! Just like the opening guitar notes to “Strawberry Swing,” the guitar riff in Charlie Brown is an instant Coldplay classic. And just like “Strawberry Swing,” this song follows the ‘no real chorus’ formula as well. Definitely one of the best tracks on the album, and worthy of a single release sometime in Spring 2012. – 5/5

5. “Us Against the World” – Reminded me of the placing of “A Message” in X & Y. “Us Against the World” is a stripped down song lacking any drums, but not entirely acoustic in its music. Another song the band previewed live in the past few months, which by now, one should assume they chose the best tracks to promote the album. – 4/5

6. “M.M.I.X.” – A 53 second instrumental interlude

7. “Every Teardrop Is a Waterfall” – The first single to be released and despite the claims by Chris Martin that the new album would contain “new sounds,” this song convinced me otherwise. It sounds like a track that didn’t originally make the cut on their last album. Which is not to say it’s a bad song. An organ hook, thumping drums and builds up to an explosion of stadium sound that’s sure to get you jumping. I liked it, but it’s just another attempt at “Viva La Vida” — just not as memorable. – 3.5/5

8. “Major Minus” – We got an early listen to this song as it was featured on the “Every Teardrop is a Waterfall” EP, released back in late June. Another killer song that sounds so much better live. Massive U2-influence on this song too, but now from another era of U2’s music. Great track none the less. – 4/5

9. “U.F.O.” – The only acoustic song on the album, and a rather short one too (2:19 minutes in length). Nothing special to say about it really. – 3.5/5

10. “Princess of China” – When I saw the “featuring Rihanna” part, I really did not know what to expect. Surely I wasn’t expecting one of the best songs on the album! After “Lovers in Japan,” here’s another mystical song which strays away from the norm for Coldplay. I’m not a Rihanna fan, but her vocals on this electro-pop track perfectly compliments Chris Martin’s voice. The “oh” chant and the “la la la-la” bits make you wonder if such fillers are now a mainstay of Coldplay songs. – 5/5

11. “Up In Flames” – Beats you normally you wouldn’t hear on a Coldplay album, this ballad sees Chris wail the title repeatedly in the chorus with minimal music. Probably the least challenging song for drummer Will Champion to play, given it never really goes anywhere. My pick for the weakest track on the album. – 2/5

12. “A Hopeful Transmission” – A 35 second prelude to…

13. “Don’t Let It Break Your Heart” – … which just bursts into brilliance! I did get a bit of The Killers-vibe, but the second last song on the album is again, one of the best tracks in my opinion! Absolutely loved it on first listen, and I ignored the fact there was still one more song to go before I could conclude this review. Surely Coldplay can’t leave this track out on their set list for their forthcoming tour in support of Mylo Xyloto. – 5/5

14. “Up With The Birds” – Closing out Mylo Xyloto, Chris Martin sings the opening lines from Leonard Cohen’s “Anthem”, and for a while it’s just echoing vocals and organs. But like how “Death and All His Friends” closed out the last album, “Up With the Birds” does rise up towards the end, but never to the bombastic extent “Death and All His Friends” did. A fitting end to this slightly subdued album. – 3/5

U2’s influence on Coldplay is undeniable. Johny Buckland’s guitar work is a few-effects short of Bono’s. Choosing the “father of ambient music” Brian Eno to produce this album (he also worked on Viva La Vida) just confirms the admiration the England band have for the Irish legends. Eno’s the man behind Joshua Tree and six other U2 albums, but that collaboration created wildly different music in the 1990s and U2 still aren’t afraid to try out different sounds. Coldplay’s music on the other hand, sticks to a formula. That formula has produced consistent radio hits by the plentiful, but some will argue if Coldplay are less challenged to try anything else for a change.

As a fan of ambient music, I don’t mind Coldplay’s collaboration with Brian Eno. It has produced some great music so far and I hope the relationship continues.

Coldplay Mylo Xyloto album art new
'MX' is another worthy addition to my Coldplay collection

I know it’s seriously uncool in certain circles to admit you are massive fan of Coldplay, but that disdain isn’t out of real hatred for the band’s music. It’s got more to do with the fact that any band or artist who receive a lot of radio airplay and are considered a mainstream act are automatically placed in the ‘uncool’ bucket.

But I’m no music elitist and have never cared about pretending to be one, despite the range of music I listen to. I have never stopped myself from listening to music just because of a thumbs down from critics — or in the case of Coldplay, being referred to as “shite”. What Coldplay’s success proves is that British pop isn’t dead. Along with the second coming of Take That, only a few chart-topping acts can still write great pop songs that are quintessentially British in their sound. In my opinion, their music topping the charts is far better than the X-Factor covers or shameless songs like JLS’ “She Makes Me Wanna” (which rips off Chris Brown’s “Yeah 3X,” which itself rips off UK-talent Calvin Harris). Don’t even get me started on British urban artists from UK’s boroughs acting as though they grew up in the ghettos of America.

Fine, so the latter are all examples corporate-driven music. But you can’t sell over 50 millions albums in an era when people hardly pay for music, or manage to stay relevant at a time when David Guetta spear-headed dance pop dominates the charts if you don’t get your act together and continue to write great songs time and time again — whether they be labelled ‘pop’ or ‘rock’. There’s none of the drama associated with Coldplay like there was with biggest British band that preceded them, Oasis. I worshiped Oasis in the 90’s — but even I got tired of the Gallaghers!

And that’s why I love Coldplay, and Keane, and yes, even Radiohead. Chances are I’m not the only one. I’m sure there are many Coldplay fans who also listen to Keane & Radiohead just as much. Of course, there also those who wouldn’t even mention the three bands in the same sentence — unless the sentence read “Radiohead is better than Coldpay and Keane!” Each to their own I say.

All-in-all, ‘Mylo Xyloto’ is still a good collection of music. It may not have great singles like the past four albums, which I feel will result in the album not selling comparatively gangbusters, but it’s still a worthy buy.

My final rating for ‘Mylo Xyloto’ – 4 out of 5 (Very Good)

*I placed this asterisk because I genuinely feel Viva La Vida is when Coldplay peaked. Every band has that one album which signifies they have made it to the top of the world. For Def Leppard, it was “Hysteria,” Metallica had the “Black” album, and for Coldplay, it’s Viva La Vida.

That is not to say Coldplay are going to fade away or call it quits (despite the rumours). With five stellar albums, Coldplay have enough singles to release a Greatest Hits collection, and then take a year or two off. Focus on family, take on other projects, a solo album perhaps. When they do come back, maybe they’ll say they’re trying to re-invent themselves and then end up working with Brian Eno again to produce the kind of music we expect to hear from Coldplay. Us fans won’t be disappointed, the band will still sell out stadiums and they continue to stay together as a group. As a fan, that’s all I really care about.

Coldplay can’t get any bigger than they already are. They have already earned themselves the title of being one of “England’s greatest bands” — ever.

 

P.S: If anybody at Coldplay’s management is reading this, please send the band to Bangalore, India for a concert! The only taste of Coldplay’s music we got was when a goodgreat British tribute band called Coldplayer played here a few month ago.

SNSD – ‘The Boys’ album review… and about Girls Generation succeeding in America

I began drafting this post and worked on most of the images at the end of September in hot anticipation for October 7th, because that’s when the album was supposed to be out. But due to some delay, SNSD’s third full album was eventually released on October 19th.

Apparently the delay was because SM Entertainment was planning for a global roll-out, including an English version for the international (namely US) market. Hmm, about SNSD making it in the West… I’ll talk about that later.

Jessica Taeyeon The Boys concept art teaser cards
Just like the Japanese album promotions from earlier this year, the girls don elegant, Victorian-era outfits for the album art

I’m starting things off with my take on the lead single “The Boys,” also the first song on the track list.

Produced by Teddy Riley, the man who made it big in the 1990s for working on Michael Jackson’s Dangerous and his own group Blackstreet, the “New Jack Swing” producer has been working with Korean pop artists lately. I don’t know if he’s doing it because he doesn’t seem to be finding many takers for his music back in his home country, or if he just wants to be a part of something new. Even then, this is the guy who gave “Demon” to Jay Park — and that song made me a Jay Park fan. So Riley has proven he still got what it takes! (I won’t talk about Rania, that was just…)

When the teasers for “The Boys” hit the web, everybody got the idea we were definitely going to be hearing something completely different from SNSD. With every new teaser’s release, some of us also got the idea that this song was… well, going to underwhelm. On October 19th, I stayed up late like a lot of other hardcore fans for the song’s full length release. When the song and MV finally went live… upon first listen? Disappointment. Mostly out of high expectations, but even after listening to it repeatedly after waking up the next day, the song just feels “meh”.

As for the ‘new sound,’ the songs “Run Devil Run,” “Hollaback Girl,” and quite strangely, even “Patron Tequila” by the now defunct Paradiso Girls came to my mind. As I still listen to it, it actually isn’t a bad song, but if SM thought this is the song that will take SNSD global, surely they hit the curb on that thought. I know songs like “Gee” will not work in the mainstream Western market, but touting Teddy Riley’s name isn’t what people in the West will pay attention to. Most listeners are oblivious to the real talent behind a good song. Heck, how many people who have been listening to pop radio from 1995  to present day realize one Swedish man and his crew are responsible for just about every big hit for Britney Spears, Backstreet Boys, ‘N Sync, Katy Perry, Pink, Kelly Clarkson, Avril Lavigne, and even Bon Jovi? I can assure you most people don’t. Bragging about songwriting talent only matters if the song turns out to be good — and it’s not like top producers have always made the best music for every artist they work with. Often times, they tend to keep all the good stuff for artists backed by labels who can cough up the money to buy what are sure to be monster hits.

I don’t know how much SM paid for the rights to “The Boys” but this song isn’t worth the money in my book. More so because SNSD also released an English version for the American market. Now when both versions hit the web, I made sure I listened to the Korean version first and then the English version. Because if did it the other way around, I knew the girl’s English pronunciation was going to distract me away from the main song.

As for how it sounds in English — I’m indifferent. “The Boys” wouldn’t stand out as a stellar record even if an American or British girl group sang it. I don’t know why Tiffany didn’t get much actual singing in the song, but the other girls weren’t bad at their attempt at English singing. I didn’t understand some of the words at first listen but you can still get the gist of what they are saying. But even as I write this, I’m still listening to the Korean version more.

Now the music video. SM invests in good production values and after seeing the Japanese MV for SHINee’s “Replay,” you know they value a good looking MV. That said, some of the sets for “The Boys” do feel a bit cheap. “The Boys” MV also showcases the beauty of  the SNSD members, but I felt the focus on highlighting how gorgeous the girls are is a bit too much in this MV. Maybe it’s because I take their charm for granted by now.

Expected counter argument? “The focus on the member’s faces is because this is the first introduction of SNSD to new audiences, so they can get a good look at the girls!”  Fine, but just like the song, “The Boys” MV isn’t that good a video either. End of rant.

Seohyun Yoona The Boys concept art teaser cards

I’ll be really curious to know how the fan-chants to “The Boys” are going to sound and how this song will do on the music programs. Rabid fans will, as always, help SNSD nab wins. But like I’ve said many times in previous k-pop reviews, it’s not the right way a song needs to win.

When SNSD’s last major single, “Hoot,” came out in 2010, I didn’t like it at first listen. But it grew on me and I ended up liking it a lot. Of all their hit singles, “Hoot” and “Genie” still stand out as my favourites. I went into “The Boys” hoping it would slowly grow on me. Sadly, it hasn’t and I don’t think my opinion is going to change any time soon. My rating for the song “The Boys” is a 3/5 (good – but not great. As a SNSD single in their 4th year as a group, a new single needs to be ‘great’)

SNSD Girls Generation The Boys MV screencaps members

Here’s a mini-review of the rest of the songs on the album:

02. “Telepathy” (텔레파시) – I’m no expert (yet) on Korean linguistics, but is it hard for them to pronounce “th”? Funny how after “The Boys,” Telepassythe second song on the album instantly takes you back to familiar SNSD territory. Except for the mispronunciation of the song title, this is actually good pop song. But is it just me, or do I hear Jessica’s vocals bumped up higher than the rest? – 4/5

03. “Say Yes” – Made me smile after hearing what I thought sounded like “TaeNy” ^_^ A fun girly song, so not really the kind I would go back to on a second or third listen. – 3/5

04. “Trick” – Now this is my kind of song! Love it! Electro-pop with auto-tuned bits, and a great chorus! It sounded very European, so I had to find out the real talent behind this track. Turns out it’s from a Swedish songwriter named Martin Hansen who also produced the last Scorpions album and the awesome single “Raised on Rock“. I don’t know what it is with ‘ABBA country’ but the Swedes know good pop! – 5/5 (No comment on the last line of the song)

05. “How Great Is Your Love” (봄날) – Written by Sooyoung, but featuring Jessica’s vocals more than hers. The first ballad on the album and might I say, I’m impressed Sooyoung! 🙂 I don’t know how much of a hand she hand in the song’s production but it sounds really good. That is, until I found out this song is basically a Korean version of this English track by Jenny Hyun. SM essentially bought the rights to the song, Sooyoung wrote the Korean lyrics. Anyway, if I ignore the ‘behind-the-scenes’ deals, and judge the song purely on how it sounds, I’m giving it a 4.5/5!

06. “My J” – The song kicks off with Jessica’s nasally vocals (sorry, I love everything else about her, but I’m not a huge fan of her voice or her accent). The song sounds like a holiday X’mas record, similar to how “Snowy Wish” made the cut in their Hoot album. – 3/5

07. “Oscar” – It doesn’t take the listener very long to figure out the song’s hook sounds so much like Britney’s “Gimme More”. The “twinkle, twinkle” lyrics don’t help either – 2/5

08. “Top Secret” – Clicked play and in the first 15 seconds thought “Wait, is this just another version of Oscar?” A mish-mash of melodies ranging from CSJH’s “One More Chance” to Rania’s “Dr. Feelgood”. Not a very original song then. – 2/5

09. “Lazy Girl” – Written by ‘kid leader’ Taeyeon, another girly track with a retro sound. It’s alright, but there’s little else I can say about it. – 3/5

10. “Sunflower” (제자리걸음) – Funny how Super Junior’s comeback album also featured a song called “Sunflower”. So which SM artist’s “Sunflower” is better? I probably won’t do this often, but I’d have to give my vote to Super Junior this time. SNSD’s “Sunflower” sounds a bit, withered. – 2.5/5

11. “Vitamin” (비타민) – If you wanted a full-length song used in a commercial, you got it! – 3/5

12. “Mr. Taxi” (Korean version) – As simple as it gets. The Korean version of Shoujo Jidai’s lead Japanese single from a few months back. Sounds just as good in Korean as it did in Japanese – 4/5

Sooyoung Tiffany The Boys concept art teaser new album
Sooyoung looks gorgeous, just as she did in her Japanese album photo

This isn’t the first taste of new music we got from SNSD in 2011. The girls spent a good chunk of this year focusing on conquering Japan, and how! Their first full-length Japanese album was an instant best seller with great songs like “You-aholic” and “The Great Escape” — the album contained some of the best songs Girls Generation has recorded. Listening to that album, I was under the impression that, maybe this is the level of quality and polish fans could expect from their next Korean release.

Sadly, despite a few good tracks, ‘The Boys’ album feels inferior. It suffers from the same issues I often complain about in just about every K-pop album I have recently reviewed. A few good tracks but a latter half with the expected album fillers and uninspired material. Though there aren’t many songs on this Korean release I would brand as ‘album fillers,’ I still rate SNSD’s Japanese album higher in terms of quality of songs compared to this third Korean album.

I don’t know if SM Entertainment is doing it on purpose, but it’s as though they rather save all their money in getting better songs for the Japanese market where the financial returns are higher. ‘The Boys’ the album will still sell well to cover costs, but that’s all down to the fact SNSD is the biggest Asian girl group in the world right now, and they have a fan following to prove it.

My final rating for the album ‘The Boys’ – 3.5 out of 5 (Good)

——————————————

About SNSD making it big in the Western market, namely the US…

I love SNSD, but I’m split two ways when it comes to their attempt to crack the Western market with English songs. Now I know just because SNSD is now signed to Interscope and UMG (the largest music company in the world), doesn’t mean SNSD will immediately start appearing on American TV starting next month. Lee Soo Man recently stated in an interview that SM artists are not going to focus on America so much, as conquering Asia is still his focus. But if SNSD did start promoting themselves in the US… read on.

As much as I would love to see my favourite K-pop group succeed wherever they go, I shudder to think how they are even going to promote in a country like America. Firstly, they are a nine-member girl group. To regular k-pop followers, we’re used to seeing large member ‘idol’ groups by now. In a country like Japan, home to a 48(!) member girl group, the Far East and South East of Asia are accustomed to large pop groups. But everywhere else? No.

The media and the mainstream public who have never heard of K-pop will easy pick on that, first. Which is why I feel the Wonder Girls have a slightly better shot, because they’re an acceptable five members. Even if they were to create a sub-unit with fewer members… it just wouldn’t feel right to fans who believe in the ‘power of 9’.

Secondly, only two members can converse in English — Tiffany and Jessica. The unofficial spokesperson for SNSD, ‘Manager Tiffany,’ can handle any interview and will do a good job of speaking on behalf of the rest of the girls. But where’s the fun in that? Imagine if Sooyoung could speak fluently, all the hilarity and fun that would ensue! Also, how do you think middle America (and that’s a large part of America mind you) will accept a group of ‘Asian girls,’ majority of whom can’t even speak English properly? Not to mention whatever words the other seven girls utter will come out as ‘Engrish. You just can’t promote in such a large, crucial English market like America without appearing on TV interviews and radio shows — and then talking in English, without a translator preferably.

Yuri Sunny The Boys concept photos teaser

Then there’s the image of the girls and how they are going to promote them. Cute & bubbly, hot cheerleaders, sexy navy uniforms… all good in my book. Worked on me for sure (except the lollipops in “Kissing You”). But the whole marketing aspect of using a ‘concept’ with each new release is part and parcel of K-pop. They don’t really do that a whole lot in the West. “The Boys” MV shows the girls in pretty outfits and with a serious look on their faces, but will they stick to that theme for every new release going forward? God forbid SM never forces the “trashy slut” concept the last successful girl group used and how most female artists lacking a voice nowadays are made to go with. Even if SNSD tried, they can’t pull it off. They just don’t have the physical attributes to go with it.

SM Entertainment will say “Exactly why we will go with a cleaner, mature image for the girls! Since all the others use the same image”. I agree, it could work, but I really do worry about their image. There’s a reason why some of use fell in love with SNSD in the first place.

For me, it wasn’t just just SNSD’s songs that made me a fan. When I watched all the variety shows the girls have been on, all the radio shows, the interviews, ‘Hello Baby’ and such, that’s what turned me into a SNSD fan! I, along with the many other SONEs (what the fans are nicknamed), love SNSD just the way they are. Nine girls with nine different personalities and put together, bring out one heck of an entertaining package. They are funny, weird, emotional… I could go on, but if you are reading this, chances are I don’t need to describe the girls to you. That’s how a lot of us really got to know the girls and their individual personalities. But again, communication is what helped get that understanding across. How will they win new fans in a mainstream market if most of the members can’t even speak to their audience properly?

Hyoyeon SNSD The Boys concept teaser new album
Hyo is my bias, so she will get extra attention from me

Some of you in the West will be going “Hey, but SNSD already has loads of fans here!” Hmm, no they don’t. All of us outside of South East Asia and the Far East are still a minority. I’m Indian, in India, and I’m sure k-pop has its share of fans in India too (especially North East Indians), but becoming popular is when you reach the level of fame and attention the likes of Bruno Mars gets — and I use him as an example because he’s a fairly new artist. Forget Lady Gaga, that’s universal super-stardom.

Just because SNSD can sell out a show at the Staples Center or Madison Square Garden, doesn’t mean they can sell out stadiums across a multi-city tour of America right away. California and New York are two of the most cosmopolitan states in America with a lot of open-minded people, and not to mention a prominent Asian population. The rest of America is the challenge, and people outside America need to understand that’s a huge part of what makes up the United States.

Then there’s the whole racial aspect of it. One advantage SNSD has is that, Asian girls have a better chance in American media than Asian guys do. In the past, I wrote about how Jay Park could well be the first Asian star to make it big in the US music charts. The fact that he’s a solo star and essentially, more American than Korean, gives him the edge. But he’s still going to face racial challenges, given his appearance. Yeah I know, Far East Movement succeeded… but the day they confidently promote themselves without wearing sunglasses, I’ll say Asian artists have a good chance in America.

Remember, Se7en failed to make it big in the United States, so did SM’s own BoA, and they were some of the biggest names in K-pop.

Ultimately, to succeed anywhere as a musician, you first need a great song. Unfortunately, “The Boys” isn’t it. So no matter how much SM Ent. is spending on promoting the song, I just don’t think the lead single is going to make any headway for SNSD in the English market. The music video will not do the girls any justice in America, simply because it sticks to the K-pop formula a little too much. If SM wanted an MV they hoped would get some plays on Western music television, they should have done it a bit differently.

Sigh. All said and done, I do wish my girls the best of luck and if they do succeed in the West, I hope their personalities never change and they don’t forget us Asian fans. And if “The Boys” doesn’t do as well as SM had hoped it would, I hope SNSD makes a quick comeback with a re-packaged album and a better song.

Until then, ❥SNSD❥ hwaiting!

Philippines: Day 9 – Cebu: Fort San Pedro, Basilica of Santo Niño, Taoist Temple

Date: April 25th 2011

I woke up really early today as I had to catch my AirPhil Express flight to Cebu at 7am. I checked out of my hotel and took a taxi from Pasay to the airport. It cost ₱70 ($1.6/€1.2) but I reached the airport in under 20 minutes and there were long queues because of the security checks. I checked in, got my window seat and whipped out my phone to take a few snaps.

NAIA Terminal 2 Manila airport
I paid the airport user fee of PHP200 ($4.5/€3.4), which Aimee told me is something every airport in Philippines makes travellers pay
Ninoy Aquino bust airport Manila Philippines
Philippines' main airport is named after this revolutionary
Ninoy Aquino history Manila airport
And this is his story

My flight was unfortunately delayed by nearly 45 minutes due to poor weather conditions (apparently), but it was better than hearing some flights being cancelled, leaving passengers frustrated.

Aerial photography cloud mountain Philippines
I asked for a window seat because I read online that one could see Mount Pinatubo on this route. Though I feel I ended up on the wrong side.
Aerial photography valley road Philippines
Not that the views were disappointing or anything

Aerial photography Cebu green plateau PhilippinesPhilippines islands Cebu flights

Cebu city aerial photography Philippines
An hour later, we were above Cebu
Cebu shallow waters coral marsh Philippines
Shallow waters along the coast of Cebu

Aerial photography Cebu shallow waters

Cebu airport Airphil Express flight landing Philippines
A little late, but the weather seemed perfectly fine

I called Aimee and informed her about my arrival and she told me where to get a taxi from.

Cebu airport ramp Philippines
Though there were taxis available where I was standing, Aimee told me to get a regular cab from outside this other building
Bridge to Cebu city Philippines
It cost ₱160 ($3.6/€2.7) from airport to where I needed to go

I had reservations at Sugbutel Bed & Bath for two nights. I chose this place because, as per the map, it was close to the pier. I needed it to close to the pier because tomorrow morning, I was to go to the island of Bohol by ferry. But when I arrived at Sugbutel, I must say, I had the look of disappointment on my face. It was bang opposite the pier, sure, but there was little else around it. No restaurants and it didn’t look like it was within city limits. Anyway, I checked in, paid ₱700 ($16/€12) for my dorm bed for two nights and went upstairs.

Sugbutel dorm bed Cebu Philippines
I got an upper bed. It was clean and had all the essentials - universal plug point, night lamp and an air-conditioned room. If you like shipping containers, then the view is fantastic!
Sugbutel dormitory floor Cebu Philippines
This is the dorm floor. Toilets are clean and large enough.

Since today was the only day I had to check out Cebu city, I wasted no time and took a jeepney straight to the first attraction on my list, Fort San Pedro.

Road to fort San Pedro in Cebu Philippines
The ride from Sugbutel took just 5 minutes (cost around ₱7)
Cebu pier ferry Philippines
I walked all the way to the pier to find out when the first ferry to Bohol was
Cebu pier ships Philippines
There are several ferry companies plying daily to the neighbouring islands

Cebu Mariners court Philippines

Fort San Pedro Cebu Philippines
I walked to Fort San Pedro, which is very close to the pier

Cebu tree in front of Fort San Pedro

Fort San Pedro Cebu Philippines entrance
There is an entrance fee of ₱30 to Fort San Pedro
Fort San Pedro Cebu Philippines flag
Fort San Pedro, built by the colonial Spanish in 1783, is one of the oldest in the country

The Founding of Cebu Fort San Pedro Philippines

Fort San Pedro lawn Cebu Philippines
Didn't look very promising from here

Fort San Pedro steps railing Cebu Fort San Pedro wall red flowers Cebu Fort San Pedro domes Cebu Fort San Pedro wall Cebu Philippines Fort San Pedro lawn Cebu Fort San Pedro cannon Cebu Philippines Fort San Pedro wall facing Cebu port office Fort San Pedro shed Cebu Philippines Fort San Pedro gardening Cebu Fort San Pedro corridor pillars Philippines Fort San Pedro lawn Cebu Philippines Fort San Pedro boy fish statue garden Cebu

Fort San Pedro exit Cebu
And that was it! I was done with the fort in 10 minutes.

I felt it was a bit of a waste of money. Maybe it’s because I’ve seen countless forts, both in India and in other places like Malaysia. After a while, they all start to look the same.

Cebu sea near pier
I walked on
Magellan's cross Bank of Philippines islands Cebu
Next up, Magellan's cross

Ferdinand Magellan was a famous Portugese explorer who became the first European to land in the Philippines. He ordered this cross be placed here signifying the arrival of the invaders explorers.

Magellan's cross chapel Cebu Philippines
The cross is housed inside this chapel
Magellan's cross Cebu Philippines
Magellan's cross, it marks the spot where the first Christian Filipinos were baptized
College St .Nino Cebu Philippines
It's right in front of this college
Cebu bakery sweets pastry
I got distracted by the sweet smell coming out of a bakery/eatery/other junk college kids eat/stationary shop attached to the college
Cassava cake Cebu Philippines
Ordered a Cassava cake as it sounded interesting to me. It was quite yummy, though I felt they used a little too much condensed milk for the sweetness
Basilica del Santo Nino church Cebu Philippines
I walked towards Cebu's most famous attraction, the Basilica Minore del Santo Nino, the oldest church in the Philippines
Basilica del Santo Nino red candles Cebu Philippines
Saw a lot of worshipers near these red candles

Basilica del Santo Nino church red candles praying PhilippinesBasilica St. Nino candle holders Cebu Philippines

Basilica St. Nino candles Cebu Philippines
That's a lot of wax...
Basilica del St. Nino candle wax Cebu Philippines
...which is recycled to make new candles I presume

Basilica del Santo Nino saints statues Cebu Philippines

Basilica St. Nino candles fountain Cebu Philippines

St. Nino Basilica church Cebu Philippines
I walked towards the church

Basilica del Santo Nino Cebu PhilippinesEntering Basilica del Santo Nino Cebu Philippines Basilica del Santo Nino church arch Cebu Philippines
Basilica del Santo Nino baby angels Philippines
Basilica del Santo Nino man praying Philippines
Basilica del Santo Nino chairs Cebu Philippines
Basilica del Santo Nino chandeliers Cebu Philippines

Basilica del Santo Nino golden Cebu Philippines

Basilica del Santo Nino Jesus cross Cebu Philippines

Basilica del Santo Nino church figure Cebu PhilippinesBasilica del Santo Nino conversion of locals Philippines

Basilica del Santo Nino ceiling paintings Philippines
Ceiling paintings
Basilica del Santo Nino Cebu Cathedral ceiling
The main ceiling

Basilica del Santo Nino gated hall Cebu Philippines

Basilica del Santo Nino prayers Cebu
It was time to leave
Basilica del Santo Nino Cebu cathedral open hall
Some courtyard right opposite the church

Basilica del Santo Nino christian statues Cebu Basilica del Santo Nino Cebu stone artBasilica del Santo Nino visitors Cebu

Osmena Blvd Santo Nino Jollibee Chowking Cebu
Across the road was a Jollibee (of course) from where I had lunch from

As I sat there, eating my burger, I wondered what to see next. It was only the afternoon and I… felt bored already. Maybe it was the lack of sleep. Anyway, I hopped on a jeepney and decided to go towards Robinsons Mall.

Osmena blvd traffic afternoon Cebu Philippines
I just hopped into any one going straight up the road
Osmena Blvd jeepney name Cebu Philippines
The names of some of these jeepneys 🙂
Cebu city North district pedestrian overbridge
I got down here
Robinsons Place mall Cebu Philippines
And this is Robinsons Place mall. Closed. Like, for good/for renovation/for demolition kind of closed.

I walked around some more, since I didn’t know what else to do.

Cebu Mango Avenue nightlife road Philippines

Robinsons Cybergate Osmena Fuente Cebu Philippines
Robinsons Cybergate is an office building

After converting some dollars at a nearby plaza, I got into another jeepney and decided to head towards the Philippine Taoist Temple.

Cebu provincial capitol building Philippines
Cebu provincial capitol building; take a right from here

The Maxwell hotel Escario street Cebu

Escario street Cebu Philippines
I got down a bit further ahead

From the main road, I was instructed to cross over to a road on the other side.

Entrance to Beverly Hills road Cebu
There were bike taxis (licensed or not, who knows) who offered to take me up for 10 pesos. Since I didn't feel like walking uphill and not knowing how much I would have to walk, I got on.
Road to Philippine Taoist Temple Cebu
Took this sitting behind the driver

It was only a short drive and the driver dropped me at a guarded entrance from where on, he told me, I would have to continue on by foot.

Beverly Hills road Cebu Philippines
Apparently it's private property from here on and so, bike taxis aren't allowed
Beverly hills road Cebu Philippines
Guess what this locality is called -- Beverly Hills 🙂
Philippines Taoist temple from afar Cebu
And that's where I needed to get to
Beverly Hills junction to Taoist temple Cebu
Took the left

Beverly Hills road to Taoist temple Cebu

Beverly Hills uphill road to Taoist temple Cebu
It's a good 10 minute walk

View from Beverly Hills Cebu

Philippine taoist temple entrance Cebu city
The entrance
Philippine Taoist temple garden Cebu
There is no entry ticket or anything

Philippine Taoist temple steps CebuPhilippine Taoist temple lion statue CebuPhilippine Taoist temple drum CebuPhilippine Taoist temple hall Cebu

Philippine Taoist temple prayer hall Cebu
The prayer hall is to the left, but photography of the hall and the idols aren't allowed
Philippine Taoist temple red staircase Cebu
I went up

Philippine Taoist temple inside CebuPhilippine Taoist temple door design Cebu

Beverly hills neighbourhood Cebu
Pretty posh neighbourhood
View from Philippine Taoist temple Cebu
The view from up here

Philippine Taoist temple dragon statues roof Cebu Philippine Taoist temple fisherman statue Cebu

Philippine Taoist temple steps down Cebu
Went back down

Philippine Taoist temple bell Cebu Philippine Taoist temple design CebuPhilippine Taoist temple dragon CebuPhilippines Taoist temple office Cebu

Philippines Taoist temple Cebu panorama
Panorama comprised of 6 shots
Philippine Taoist temple exit Cebu
I was done
Philippine Taoist Temple Inc. second entrance Cebu
I know this temple was built by Chinese businessmen but '... Temple Inc.'?
Cebu Beverly hills stone wall
A lot of rich people live in Beverly Hills, though I wonder which came first -- the name of the hill or the residents?

Road behind Taoist temple Beverly Hills CebuBeverly Hills afternoon sun shadow Cebu PhilippinesWoolbright drive Beverly Hills Cebu Philippines

Villa Beverly Hills Cebu
Nice looking pads
Beverly Hills road downhill Cebu
Walked all the way back down
Cebu Beverly Hills horse riding Philippines
Rich people = own horses
Cebu Beverly hills slum shanty homes Philippines
But just like India, regardless of any fancy name, it doesn't take too long to come back down to the reality of the majority in Cebu
Locals near Beverly hills Cebu
I bought some credit ('load' is the term in Philippines) for my phone and had a drink from here

The bike taxis approached me again and asked me if I would like to go to a higher viewing spot, which was a bit further up from here. They said I could watch the sun set from there. I was honestly bored, so I said “No thanks” and just walked on.

I stepped into a nearby mall, mostly to get some air-con. I dropped by a travel agency and asked them how much a tour to Bohol island tomorrow would cost. They quoted just over ₱3500 which I knew was exorbitant, since I did look it up online and had a fair idea as to how much the tours approximately cost.

I messaged Aimee telling her I was bored in Cebu and she told me to go check out Ayala Mall. So I got into a jeepney and headed to Ayala.

Cebu business park Ayala Philippines
Got down at an area that looked like a business park
Cebu business park IT office building
A lot of IT offices here
Wipro Cebu office Philippines
Well look who's here! (Wipro is an India IT/BPO major)
Ayala mall interiors shops Cebu Philippines
Anyway, this is air-condi... I mean, Ayala Mall
Ayala Mall Convergys call center hiring banners
Call center hiring is all over the mall

30 minutes of store-hopping, got bored (again) and left. I was pretty sleepy by now and decided to just take a taxi back to the pier instead of a jeepney.

Cebu pier at night
This was at 7pm
Supercat office Cebu pier Philippines
Came to the pier for Supercat's office & to know when the first ferry to Tagbilaran (Bohol's capital) was

The tour of Bohol when purchased from Supercat themselves cost around ₱2800. I opted not to buy the tour package and instead, decided to do it myself.

I left the pier and walked back to the main road. As soon as I got to the main road in a minute, I realized why I booked at Sugbutel. You can literally walk to Supercat’s terminal from here.

Pier road Sugbutel Radisson hotel at night
If you don't like Sugbutel's budget offerings, you can move up to the Radisson up ahead

I dropped my camera bag back at the dorm and stepped out again wondering where I could have dinner. There are hardly any eateries outside Sugbutel.

Pier area at night Cebu
The surroundings aren't exactly what you'd call 'great'

But walk all the way up to the Radisson Hotel and right next to it is one big-ass mall!

SM City cebu mall restaurants
Felt stupid just wondering a few minutes back, where I could get some decent food! No dearth of options here.
SM City Cebu mall Philippines
SM City is the biggest mall in Cebu!
SM city Cebu mall foodcourt
I ate from here
SM City Cebu mall shops
Walked around the mall a bit. It was past 8pm and many stores were done for the day.

I walked back to Sugbutel, freshened up and hit the bed early. Tomorrow was going to be another early wake-up call.

I know Cebu residents will be going “Oh, there’s more to Cebu than just these sights you saw!” and you’re probably right. Aimee told me if I headed up north in a vehicle, I could have explored the beaches and other sights Cebu has to offer. But I’m keeping all my “beach and sea” experiences for Palawan, which is why I only used Cebu as a stopover point to get to Bohol and then fly to Palawan.

Previous posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Day 8 – Manila tour: Rizal Park, Intramuros, Manila Cathedral, China Town

Philippines 2011: Day 7 – Leaving Angeles City for Manila, Mall of Asia

Philippines 2011: Day 6 – Good Friday in San Fernando, San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites

Philippines 2011: Leaving Sagada for Baguio, and arriving in Angeles city (Days 4 & 5)

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Sagada’s Lumiang burial cave, Sumaguing cave, Hanging Coffins of Echo valley

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Banaue town; heading to Sagada via Bontoc

Philippines 2011: Day 2 – Banaue rice terraces; trekking to Batad village

Philippines 2011: Day 1 — Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, Fort Bonifacio

Philippines 2011: Flying over South China Sea for the first time

Other posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Day 10 – Bohol tour: Chocolate Hills, Loboc river cruise, Tarsiers, churches

Philippines 2011: Day 11 – Arriving in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 12 – Puerto Princesa Underground River tour, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 13 – Puerto Princesa to El Nido by bus

Philippines 2011: Day 14 – El Nido island hopping tour A and sunset at Las Cabanas beach, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Back to Manila, shopping, and my final thoughts about the country  (Last post)

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