Philippines: Day 11 - Arriving in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Date: April 27th 2011

Today, I didn’t have to wake up that early. My Cebu Pacific flight to Palawan was at 11am, so I took it fairly easy after yesterday’s tiring tour of Bohol. Once I got ready, I checked out of Sugbutel and the staff hailed a taxi for me to go to Cebu airport (cost ₱183).

Though there was a bit of traffic (being office hours), I got to the airport by 9am and checked in. My flight was on time and I got a window seat again.

Cebu to Palawan flight aerial view — Goodbye Cebu

Palawan island aerial view Philippines — Hello largest island in the Philippines

Puerto Princesa airport Palawan Philippines — The flight landed past noon

Puerto Princesa airport Cebu Pacific flight Palawan — Palawan looked beautiful already

Even though I didn’t have a reservation anywhere, I did make a list of a few good hostels or budget accommodation, referred to as ‘pension inns’ here in the Philippines. I hired a tricycle taxi and asked him to take me to Duchess Pension first – one of the most recommended budget hotels in Puerto Princesa.

When I got to Duchess Pension, it was full. So yeah, it’s popularity is true. I then asked the driver to take me to my second choice, Banwa Arthouse, which wasn’t too far from Duchess. When I got to Banwa, fortunately, a bunk bed was available.

I paid the trike driver ₱50 (because that’s how much he charged) and I checked in.

Banwa Arthouse dorm bunk bed Puerto Princesa Palawan — A bed in the mixed dorm cost me ₱350 ($8/€5) per night

Banwa Arthouse dorm toilet Puerto Princesa Palawan — The toilet is attached to the dorm and was clean

Banwa Arthouse interiors Puerto Princesa Palawan — The one reason why I shortlisted Banwa Arthouse was because of how it looks

Banwa Arthouse restaurant cafe Puerto Princesa Palawan — This is the cafe and where you can access the wi-fi

Banwa Arthouse lobby Puerto Princesa Palawan — The basement has more shower rooms, but otherwise it's where the staff and family stay

Banwa Arthouse garden entrance Puerto Princesa Palawan — The sit-out area

Banwa Arthouse Puerto Princesa Philippines — Banwa Arthouse from outside

Puerto Princesa town houses Philippines — I decided to go for a stroll

Puerto Princesa children Palawan Philippines — If you are wondering if I was staying in some village, no, I wasn't.

Felix Pension Inn Puerto Princesa Palawan Philippines — There are other 'pension' inns around

Balayong Pension Puerto Princesa Palawan — This place looked new

Iglesia ni Christo Puerto Princesa Philippines — No, I wasn't going to spend time seeing another church

Way to Baybay Puerto Princesa Philippines — I headed towards the sea

Baybay Puerto Princesa Philippines — Though I was aware there was no beach in Puerto Princesa (seriously) I hoped to at least touch the water. But Baybay is a corniche, so you can only sit by the ledge and stare at the sea.

Tonight at the Baybay, there was going to be an event with stage performances, food stalls and such. I guess I knew where to come for dinner.

Jollibee sign Puerto Princesa Palawan Philippines — I decided to get lunch for now (not Jollibee of course)

Unitop shopping mall Puerto Princesa Palawan — But given how hot it was, I stepped in here to cool off a bit and to get some water

Puerto Princesa capital Palawan Philippines — I walked all the way to the city centre where I hoped to find a good seafood restaurant

Bench Bruno's deli restaurant Puerto Princesa Palawan — I crossed the road

Road Puerto Princesa Palawan — There were more budget accommodation available here

Circon business inn Divine sweets Puerto Princesa Palawan — But aside from a bakery, there were no seafood restaurants

Puerto Princesa city hall Palawan — I moved on

Skylight Hotel lobby Puerto Princesa Palawan — I stepped into this hotel presuming since hotel looked nice, the restaurant maybe good too

Skylight hotel restaurant policy Puerto Princesa Philippines — Errr...

I glanced at the menu and despite the restaurant’s appearance, there was nothing out of the ordinary available. Even the seafood options were limited. It was nearing 3pm, I didn’t feel like walking anymore. So I ordered just a seafood pasta and a beer.

Terrible seafood pasta Skylight Hotel Palawan — How was the pasta?

Bad! In fact, it was the worst I’ve ever eaten! Not to a point where it was sickening, but just plain bad for the ₱130 they charged for this. The sauce was straight out of a can, the bread didn’t have a hint of garlic or wasn’t even toasted – it was just plain sliced bread! The prawns were surely packaged, frozen ones and I could barely identify the other seafood used in the dish. Ugh, I still ate it as I was hungry and I didn’t want to pay double for this rubbish!

If this is the quality of food served at this restaurant, then it’s no wonder patrons leave leftovers on their plate! Avoid, avoid, avoid!

Jollibee Dunkin Donuts Puerto Princesa Palawan — Sigh, I should have just gone to a Jollibee!

Balinsasayaw chicken grill restaurant Puerto Princesa Palawan — Walked towards the airport because I did remember seeing more restaurants there

Tiki restobar Puerto Princesa Palawan Philippines — Manny Pacquiao's next match was being hyped well in advance by just about everybody

Airport wharf Puerto Princesa sign Palawan — I walked towards the airport road

Palawan provincial capital building Puerto Princesa — I was bored, so I sat near these fountains for a while

Airport road Puerto Princesa Palawan Philippines — This road leads to the airport

Banana tree Puerto Princesa Philippines — Banana?

Puerto Princesa airport road Palawan Philippines — I walked a bit up the road and just felt so uninspired to walk any further. So I hailed a trike and decided to go back.

It looked like Puerto Princesa had very little to offer within its city limits. I asked the driver if there was anything remotely interesting and he said “church”. Sigh.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral church Puerto Princesa Philippines — Immaculate Conception Cathedral

Philippines Port Authority Puerto Princesa Philippines — I left the church and walked a bit further down. It was the port, I couldn't enter. I walked back.

That was it. I was officially bored.

I walked back to Banwa Arthouse, and went to the cafe to do some research. It was so hot even though there was a fan on. Well, on and off. Electricity kept going and coming, along with the internet.

My original plan was never to stay in Puerto Princesa. My hope was to land in Puerto Princesa and head straight to El Nido, which is at the northern end of Palawan. Unfortunately I had just missed the last private van going to El Nido as its a 5-6 hour journey by road. Another place on the agenda was the region of Sambang, famous for its Underground River.

As I sat at my table, a Polish guy came over and we began talking. Turned out, he too was planning to head to El Nido but had to be back in Puerto Princesa the day after to catch his flight in the evening. We decided we’d go to El Nido together and share expenses for accommodation.

“Great!” I thought, but two Swedish girls across from us joined in on our conversations and told us they had just gotten back from spending a few days in El Nido. They showed us their photos, we shared our plans and my intention of going to Sambang, and after hearing our experiences, the Polish guy and I decided it was best we go our separate ways. I decided to go to Sambang first thing in the morning and after doing the underground river tour, spend the night on the beach. Wake up the next day and then head to El Nido from Sambang, since Sambang is before El Nido.

But when I went to inform the staff that I would be checking out tomorrow morning because of my intention to head to Sambang, he told me my plan may not go as smoothly as I hope. He told me it’s because there’s a crucial junction along the way from where one has to take a left to go to Sambang. From that junction, Sambang beach is still a fair distance. Problem is, if I need to get to El Nido, I have to head back to very that junction to catch a bus going to El Nido. He also warned me saying that the buses are not that frequent given the distance. (Palawan is big island, but it’s sparsely populated)

All of this was confusing and at the same time, I didn’t want to risk – or waste time – in case I didn’t get the bus from that junction. The staff advised it’s easier to just do the Underground River tour from Puerto Princesa itself. He may have pushed for it so that I stay another night and book a tour through him, but alas, I couldn’t afford to take any chances.

So book a Sambang tour for tomorrow I did.

By the time I decided what to do, the Swedes, the Polish guy and a Palawan native who was staying at the Banwa Arthouse asked if I wanted to join them for dinner. The local said he knew of a good restaurant and assured me their seafood was good. So in two tricycle taxis, off we went to a place called Kalui.

Kalui restaurant dinner Puerto Princesa Philippines — The place looked quite nice and was moderately priced

Vegetarian food Kalui Puerto Princesa Philippines — The Swede beside me ordered vegetarian and her dish looked, interesting

Seafood sisig Palawan Philippines — I on the other hand ordered a seafood sisig (cost ₱250/$5/€4). It was alright, but I would have preferred it without the mayo.

Dinner was pleasant, and we each spoke about where all we had traveled and our stories. It’s moments like this why I especially love backpacking — meeting other travellers and sharing our experiences!