First trip to Coorg: Thadiyandamol, Talakaveri and Abbey Falls

Date: October 2008

This is actually a continuation of a travelogue in which we had first stopped at Bylakuppe. Post-lunch, we then drove to Coorg district and straight to our homestay at the foot of Thadiyandamol, the highest peak in Coorg. This place took some finding but once we eventually did, Ramesh struggled a bit to get his car in. It had rained earlier that day, so the soil was moist and muddy, making the car’s wheels to spin as Ramesh tried to get some grip.

Mud tracks road Coorg India

The number of attempts Ramesh took (Photograph by Ramesh)

Muddy entrance to Palace Estate Coorg

This was in 2008, I don't know if the condition of this path is the same even to this day

Loi at Palace Estate driveway Coorg

The car eventually got in

Palace Estate homestay Thadiyandamol Coorg

The homestay we were staying at was called Palace Estate

Palace Estate homestay Coorg India

Our room was in that portion of the house with the yellow wall

Views from Palace Estate Thadiyandamol Coorg

The views were nice

A friend had recommended Palace Estate as she had stayed there, saying the host was very nice and if we wanted a relaxing environment away from the hustle and bustle, you couldn’t ask for a better place. Palace Estate is located at the foot of Thadiyandamol hill, which at 5700 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in Coorg. They had a good website, the rates seemed reasonable and we booked in advance.

Our rooms were simple yet cozy, and pretty basic. Palace Estates has posher and bigger rooms on the upper floor, but we didn’t require any of the ‘comforts’ since we were only spending two nights here. Before settling in, we decided to walk downhill and check out the Nalknad Palace at the recommendation of our host.

Nalknad palace Thadiyandamol Palace Estate Coorg

Nalknad Palace is a short walk from the homestay

Temple Coorg pillars

This was a summer palace built during 1780-1789 by the then Coorg King Linga Raja

Nalknad palace Coorg

It's not a big structure worthy of being called a 'palace'

Nalknad palace Coorg structureNalknad palace temple structure Coorg

Coorg evening sky moon

It was past 6pm and getting dark

Back in our room, we freshened up and had some vodka that we had carried with us. The family doesn’t sell any liquor so they insist you bring your own, and would really appreciate it if we didn’t make too much noise as drinking isn’t something they want to encourage so as not to attract the wrong kind of tourists. We assured our host that would be no problem. None of us were heavy drinkers and we only needed something to warm us up in the cold. Because it did get quite chilly at night. Being a homestay, you get dinner, although you have to pay extra for it. Most guests opt to eat from the homestay itself… because you have no other choice. There’s practically scant civilization in the area. It’s 38kms from Madikeri town, the heart of Coorg district.

The next morning, I forced myself to wake up at dawn, as I wanted to see what the views would be like from up here. I tried waking up the other two, but neither got up from their slumber.

Morning view from Thadiyandamol Coorg

It was worth it

Morning sunrise Thadiyandamol Coorg

You really do feel you are at quite an elevation

Clouds morning sunrise Thadiyandamol Coorg

The morning mist and the clouds were amazing to look at

Morning sunrise clouds Thadiyandamol Coorg

It was also freakin' cold!

So I went back in to cuddle up in bed.

Coconut tree through door

I woke up again at 9am

After breakfast, our host drew us a map to Talacauvery, the supposed source of the river Kaveri. We drove to Bhagamandala, parked our car at the footsteps of the temple at Brahmagiri hill.

Steps temple Ramesh Loiyumba Coorg

From here on, it's all climbing

Talakaveri temple hill pool

The temple with its 'holy' water

Talacauveri temple steps

Past the temple, you climb over 300 steps to the top of hill

Ramesh Loi sitting Coorg

Talacauvery mist fog hills Coorg

Waited for the mist to clear

Talakaveri view hills panorama

And although these photos may not do it justice, the views from up here are quite grand

House hills Coorg

Imagine life amidst such beauty

View of hills panorama

Talakaveri view of hills in Coorg

The clouds would give the hills their moment in the sun

Talakaveri cows hilltop Coorg

How the heck did you guys get up here?

Talacauveri fence rust Coorg

We left the peak and walked back town

Talakaveri temple crowd Coorg

We left the place by 1pm

Post lunch, we drove to Madikeri town in search of Abbey Falls.

Abbey falls Coorg India

It's a popular attraction in Coorg

Abbey waterfall Coorg India

We didn't hang around for long

Abbi falls Coorg India

We have seen bigger waterfalls

Sunset skies in Coorg India

We drove back to Thadiyandamol

Palace Estate homestay Coorg at night

It rained at night

Yesterday for dinner, they only had chicken and I asked our host if he could provide us pork tonight without fail. Coming to Coorg and not having their traditional peppery pork dish is a huge miss. Tonight’s dinner, he gladly added pork to the menu and I served myself an unhealthy plate full of fat. We took our dinner to our rooms so we could eat it while we had some drinks.

Palace Estate Coorg rooms India

The next morning, I woke up to take some more photos of the early morning mist

View from Palace Estate balcony Coorg India

I took this from balcony

Morning mist silhoutte hills Coorg

This was taken at 6:30am

This was our last day here. We had breakfast, settled our bills and left the homestay.

View from Thadiyandamol hill Coorg

We drove higher up Thadiyandamol hill

Morning fog silhouette hills Coorg

It was still wet

Thadiyandamol river stream Coorg

When the tarmac ended, we went on foot

Boys walking to school Coorg

We saw a few boys walk to school, which we imagine is quite far away. I can't imagine what daily life must be like out here.

Thadiyandamol trek path Coorg

Thadiyandamol is a popular trekking spot

Red black caterpillar ground Coorg

If we wore proper gear, and had the time (and prepared), I would have loved to have trekked to the highest peak

Thadiyandamol hill forest trees Coorg

But we walked back to the car instead

Thadiyandamol view Coorg forest

Despite no trekking, this was still a good trip

Also check out: Photos from my Bylakuppe trips (and Nisargadhama Wildlife Reserve)

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