Ratchada train market tents Bangkok

Thailand: Ratchada Night Market (Rot Fai 2) — what it used be

Date: 2 November 2019

After spending some time at Chatuchak Weekend Market, I took the MRT (Bangkok’s subway) from Chatuchak to Thailand Cultural Centre station. I came here to visit — what was then — a increasingly popular night market.

I say ‘was’ because… look at the date I was there. Just two months later, COVID hit the world. Thailand’s tourism sector came to a halt. And for a city like Bangkok, that sees nearly 40 million(!) visitors annually, needless to say, the lack of tourists had a massive impact on the footfalls flowing into Bangkok’s popular night markets.

Now, the site in Ratchada district where Rot Fai 2 market used to be looks like this now:

That said, according to a video by Coconuts Bangkok, uploaded in August 2021, the Ratchada Night Market will make up a comeback… eventually. Unless a property developer is already eyeing the land for another luxury development in Bangkok 🙄

Rot Fai means ‘train’ in Thai. The night market used to be located by the train tracks in the Chatuchak area but later moved to the Ratchada district.

Anyway, if the Ratchada Rot Fai market does return to the same location, here’s how to get there and what the market offers.

Once you exit Thailand Cultural Centre MRT station, head towards a mall named Esplanade.

Esplanade mall Bangkok Thailand
The Rot Fai night market is behind Esplanade

If you search for Rot Fai night market online or look it up on Instagram, you will most likely see a photo of an over head view of the colourful tents at the market. To get that iconic shot, you don’t need a drone.

Esplanade car parking fourth floor Bangkok
You need to get to the fourth floor parking area of the mall
Esplanade car parking Rod Fai market
There, you will see tourists who came before you take their spots
Tourists Esplanade car parking Rod Fai market
Try the fourth or fifth floors

Why do people bother coming here for?

Ratchada Rod Fai train market Thailand
For this view!
Ratchada train market tents Bangkok
The rooftops of all the tents lit up at night makes for quite a sight
Ratchada Rod Fai market tents Bangkok
Individual stalls selling food, clothes, juices, souvenirs and anything else tourists would be interested in buying
Shop tents Ratchada train market Bangkok
Okay, time to go down and check out the stalls!
Behind Esplanade mall Bangkok
To get to the market, the access is by the left side of the mall
Talad Rodfai2 train market Thailand
It was easy to see more than 70% of the crowds here were package tourists from China
Talad Rodfai 2 night market Thailand
There are hundreds of stalls at Rod Fai 2
Grilled meats Rodfai market Bangkok
Many of the stalls serve all varieties of food
Stalls Rodfai 2 train market Bangkok
Most non-food stalls sold clothes
Massage Ratchada Rodfai market Bangkok
And if you get tired from all the shopping and eating, you can get massages as well
Fruit soaps Rodfai night market Bangkok
One of the most popular products you find sold everywhere in Bangkok nowadays are these soaps in the shape of fruits and flowers
Fruit soaps Ratchada night market Bangkok
6 for 100 Thai baht (₹225/$2.8/€2.7) is a good deal

I bought a bunch of these fruit soaps to give my relatives back home. It makes for a unique gift and they all liked it. The soaps smell like the fruits they resemble and are just fine as bath soaps.

Unfortunately, as I was just started to get around the night market, it began to rain! Here is a video I had shot before the rains poured:

Talad Rodfai 2 night market closing
The stall owners all started covering up their wares

After the heavy rains subsided, I took out my umbrella and I tried walking around but it was hard to take videos with my the DSLR one-handed (due to its weight).

After rain Ratchada Rodfai train market
So I just took photos on my phone
Fruit soaps Rod Fai 2 night market Bangkok
Like I said, these fruit soaps are quite a hit with tourists!
Fried food Ratchada Rodfai train market
So much food to try!
Shop stalls Ratchada Rodfai market Bangkok
But I was the only one person
And because of the rains, the few eateries with covered seating were all packed

The rains pretty much killed the vibe of the market. All of sudden, the crowds began to disperse, stall owners decided to shut shop, and the lights got dim. I decided to leave the market and made my way back to Esplanade.

Chinese tourists Ratchada Rodfai market
There were still hordes of Chinese tourists waiting to board their tour buses

I decided to eat something before heading back to my hostel.

Tokyo Sundubu Bangkok Thailand
I ate my dinner here… Tokyo Sundubu

Despite ‘Tokyo’ in the name, sundubu is a type of Korean stew made with tofu, cooked together with vegetables, meat, or seafood. It came with some rice and was bubbling hot. It tasted pretty good.

After that, I headed back to my hostel and called it an night after doing some work.

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