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Mithun Divakaran

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Gateway of India Mumbai India

Mumbai: Visiting CST and Gateway of India Early in the Morning

Date: January 15, 2025

After not traveling anywhere in 2024, I began 2025 with a trip I had been planning for months prior. When Coldplay was going to play in Bangkok in 2024, I read rumours about the British band bringing their Music of the Spheres tour to India. So I held back from spending way too much just to go see Coldplay in Bangkok.

Tickets went live on BookMyShow on September 22, and although I struggled to purchase tickets, luckily I had a friend who got one for me. As luck would have it, the tickets arrived just a few days before I had to leave for Bangalore, and so I took the train to Calicut to meet my friend and got my entry tag.

I have already published the blog post about the Coldplay concert in Navi Mumbai, so now I’m going to begin my Mumbai series with all that I saw in the few days I spent in India’s financial capital.

Past midnight, I took an Uber to Bengaluru’s Terminal 1, which is now all domestic.

Akasa Air check in BLR airport
My flight was with Akasa Air

I booked with Akasa because at the time of booking, I got a fare of ₹3591 ($42/€39) including luggage and meals — which I thought was a good deal. More importantly, the flight was supposed to depart at 8:10 AM and arrive in Mumbai at 9:50AM — which I felt would have been a perfect to start my day and check-in to my hotel. Then one month prior, I get an email from Akasa Air saying due to a schedule change, my flight time was changed to depart at 3:50 AM and arrive at 5:35 AM! Grrrh 🙄

BLR airport Terminal 1 domestic check-in
I didn’t have any check-in luggage since I crammed everything into one backpack to save time waiting for luggage

But while passing through security, I was sidelined and asked to take out an old mini mosquito bat that I was carrying. I was told that I would have to keep that in my check-in baggage because a device that can create electric shocks cannot be allowed on board. I told the guy it was old and not very strong but security wouldn’t allow it. So there, if anybody is wondering if mosquito bats are allowed in hand baggage on flights within India — the answer is no. I ‘gifted’ the security staff my old mini mosquito bat and walked to my gate.

BLR domestic airport Akasa Air boarding gate
Other than that, there were no delays and I didn’t have to take a bus to get to the airplane either
Spicejet domestic early morning flights BLR airport
I don’t think there is a single moment when BLR airport isn’t busy nowadays
Phone holder plane seat Akasa Air
This is what counts for in-flight entertainment in a budget airline these days — a phone holder and a pull-out tray to place tablets 😊
Chicken cafreal poi Akasa Air flight meal
For my meal, I pre-booked a chicken cafreal poi

Sadly it was served chilled but other than that, it tasted good. Cafreal poi is a Goan (originally Portuguese) dish — basically meat stuffed bread pockets.

Mumbai city at night from plane
I booked a window seat up front long back thinking I could see the morning sky. All I just got were Mumbai’s city lights in darkness.
Mumbai domestic airport arrival
The flight landed past 5AM at Terminal 1

First impressions of the domestic terminal? Man, I cannot believe this was the domestic airport of India’s richest city. Bangalore is now leagues apart compared to other Indian cities when it comes to airports. Thankfully Mumbai’s Terminal 1 is now getting a makeover.

Given the fact I arrived very early, I was in no rush to leave the airport. I sat inside for a while to figure out what to do and make plans in case I was not allowed to check-in early.

Outside Mumbai Domestic airport Terminal 1
This was outside the terminal. I just booked an Uber to get to my hotel (cost me ₹449.95).

I had booked a hotel in Parel for two nights as I planned to do some sightseeing before the Coldplay concert. But once I got to Pals Hotel, the security guard said it was too early and the rooms are all full, so I would have to come back by noon to see if I could check-in. Feeling sleep deprived and tired, I wondered what to do.

Eventually I decided it was best to make the most of my time and headed to the Gateway of India. I walked to the closest train station Cotton Green, to get to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST for short).

Inside Mumbai local train empty
The ticket cost just ₹5 ($0.058/€0.054) for a 10 minute journey — and fortunately the train was quite empty at this time

As the train slowly made its way to CST, there was a stench in the air along the way. I don’t know if it was because of fish mongers using trains to get to & from markets or whatever else that caused it… but Mumbai had a stench!

Mumbai CST train platform early morning
First impressions of Mumbai’s famous local trains? Wow, they’re cheap!

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus was constructed in the late 1880s by the colonial British and was originally called Victoria Terminus until 1996. After nearly 50 years of gaining independence from the British, India realized they didn’t want to keep British names anymore. So Bombay became Mumbai (again), and Victoria Terminus got re-named after Shivaji, the Maratha Empire warrior king.

CST train station Mumbai India
Despite the name change, the beauty of the classic British architecture remains
CST Victoria terminus ticket hall inside Mumbai
But the main attraction inside CST is the ticketing hall

CST was designed by British architect Frederick William Stevens in an Italian Gothic style. Construction was completed in 1887.

CST ceiling dome arch design Mumbai
Hands down the most impressive feature is the ceiling’s design
CST Victoria terminus pillars ceiling design Mumbai
Very gothic… I just wished the pillars got a new paint job
Underpass CST terminal Mumbai
This is an underpass to get to the other side

You noticed the red stains at the bottom of the pillar above? Those are paan gutka stains. For the non-Indians, paan gutka are smokeless tobacco chewables sold in small sachet packets (popular in North India) containing areca nut, tobacco, and other ingredients. People out here have a habit of spitting this shit everywhere!

CST Victoria Terminus UNESCO Heritage site
CST now has the UNESCO World Heritage Site tag
BMC building Mumbai early morning-traffic
Right outside CST is the BMC building, which was also designed by Frederick William Stevens

BMC is Bombay’s Municipal Corporation, and despite the beautiful building they work in, BMC work in Mumbai is anything but beautiful! Richest municipality in India with billion dollar budgets — and also the most corrupt. Mumbai does not have the infrastructure it deserves, even though the city is the highest tax generating city in the nation.

Switch double-decker electric bus Mumbai India
Mumbai’s famous double decker buses are now electric, manufactured by Switch — a subsidiary of Ashok Leyland

There is a bus terminal close by CST and I lined up for the bus that drops tourists near Gateway of India.

KFC Gateway of India Mumbai morning
Bus ticket was just ₹6 ($0.07/€0.06) and the journey took less than 10 minutes
Sun City Apollo hotel Mumbai
If you want to stay near the Gateway of India, SunCity Apollo hotel is a good option, if you can’t afford the ultra-expensive Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Other options for 3 or 4 star hotels nearby are Abode Bombay, The Gordon House Hotel, and Hotel Suba Palace. For cheap or budget options — try Hotel Shabana, Hotel O Blue Light, or One Step Hostel.

A short walk from where the bus stopped, and you see it.

Gateway of India Mumbai India
Quite a sight, right?
Gateway of Mumbai Taj Palace hotel Mumbai
Sadly, Gateway of India was 70% covered in scaffolding due to renovation works when I visited

The 85 feet height arch monument was built to commemorate the 1911 landing of King George V and Queen Mary in Bombay; works were completed in 1924.

Gate of India commemorate landing Queen Mary Bombay
It says so at the top
Gateway of India side view Bombay
Back then, this was an entry port to Bombay
Boats Arabian sea Mumbai morning
There are still many jettys by the waterfront. The Indian Navy has one, Mumbai’s Yacht Club has another, one for tour boats, etc.
Back of Gateway of India renovation Mumbai
This is what the sea-facing side of Gateway of India looked like
Taj Hotel Mumbai panorama
The famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel — Mumbai’s first 5-star hotel, opened in 1903
Dog pigeons fly India Gate Mumbai
Although Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel are the big attractions here, another major draw are the pigeons

So if you have a fear of pigeons (yes, it’s a thing), be warned — there are hundreds of pigeons flying around Gateway of India and as you will see in my video (which I will add later), they’re very popular among tourists and photographers!

No drone zone Gateway of India Mumbai
You cannot fly drones anywhere near Gateway of India

Understandably so. For those who don’t know, in 2008, there was a terrorist attack carried out by Pakistani Islamists who came to Mumbai by boat at night, attacked the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, and then spread out to other spots across Mumbai, killing many.

Swami Vivekananda statue Mumbai India
Another attraction in front of Gateway of India is this statue of Swami Vivekananda

The statue was erected to honour the occasion when Swami Vivekananda left for Chicago in 1893 (by boat obviously) to give his famous speech at World’s Parliament of Religions, in which he introduced Hinduism to America, called for religious tolerance and an end to fanaticism.

I wondered what to do next. I had planned to take the boat ride to Elephanta Island (a.k.a Gharapuri) to see the Elephanta Caves but it was just 8AM and I hadn’t slept at all. I didn’t want to risk going back to Pals Hotel and be told my room was still not ready. So I decided just go for the boat tour and get it done with. That will be my next post.

Flying over Andaman islands BKK to BLR

Leaving Bangkok, Oman Air Lounge at BKK, and flying over Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Date: January 22, 2023

I woke up earlier than usual because I had to get to the airport by 10AM for my 1PM IndiGo flight back to Bangalore.

Retro39 hotel room view Bangkok
It was time to check out of Retro39
Mochi ring banana flavoured donut Bangkok
I had bought this banana cream doughnut from the Lawson convenience store downstairs

I didn’t eat much of a breakfast as I had plans to eat at an airport lounge before my flight.

Phrom Phong area apartments
I liked the area I stayed at this time. I might come back to this side, near Phrom Phong BTS station.
Inside Toyota Corolla Cross Bangkok
I booked a Grab taxi to take me to Suvarnabhumi airport
Toyota Corolla Cross Bangkok airport
It was a Toyota Corolla Cross Hybrid — a popular crossover here. I really like its simple design!
Suvarnabhumi airport departures new terminal Bangkok Thailand
My flight was with IndiGo Airlines, whose counters were at the far right end of the terminal
VAT refund counter Suvarnabhumi airport
The VAT refund counter for tourists is here — right opposite the IndiGo counters

Remember, you need to show the filled out VAT refund form from the shop you purchased the goods, show the inspector the purchased goods at the VAT refund counter, and then get the papers stamped from here before you pass through security. The actual cash refund you get in hand is from another counter after immigration and security.

Continue reading “Leaving Bangkok, Oman Air Lounge at BKK, and flying over Andaman & Nicobar Islands” »
Mixt Chatuchak mall Bangkok

Thailand: Jatujak Weekend Market and Mixt Chatuchak Mall

Date: January 21, 2023

I spent yesterday roaming through Khao San Road, checked out popular toy plazas, and ended the night at Bangkok’s Chinatown.

Binggrae melon milk drink BTS edition
I bought Binggrae melon-flavoured milk the night before. It’s some BTS edition. The musk melon flavour was actually quite yum!

Everytime I visit Bangkok and it’s a weekend, I try to visit Asia’s largest street market — Chatuchak weekend market.

Mo Chit BTS station Bangkok
I took the BTS to Mo Chit station

I visited Chatuchak market for the first time during my very first visit to Thailand back in 2009. This is probably my fifth or sixth time coming here — it’s like a ritual whenever I am in Bangkok 🙂

Getting to Chatuchak weekend market Bangkok
Why?

Because this place is awesome — it has something for everyone!

Pad Thai JJ weekend market
So many food stalls selling everything from Pad Thai…
Shawarma kebab stall weekend market Bangkok
…to shawarmas. And everything in between!
Second hand book stall Jatujak weekend stall
From second-hand books…
Street musicians weekend market Bangkok
… to street musicians
Continue reading “Thailand: Jatujak Weekend Market and Mixt Chatuchak Mall” »
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