This is in continuation of a travel series that began in Kumarakom. To recap, we had gone to Kottayam for a friend’s wedding and after another friend, Ramesh, joined us in the afternoon, we took a bus from Kottayam’s main bus depot to reach the town of Kumily.
The nearly 3 hour long journey was quite an experience by itself. Once we passed the low lying towns, we sensed we were going uphill, but it’s not like we could see anything. It was pitch dark outside, and we could only assume the bus was taking hair-pin bends when the three of us slid from side to side on our seats. We had a blast, quite a roller coaster ride it was!
We reached Kumily town past 7pm, if I remember correctly. We didn’t have a reservation anywhere but we got a room easily for less than Rs. 1000 a night. I don’t remember the name of the hotel, sorry, it’s been nearly 3 years ago and I don’t remember where I wrote down all the details.
We had our drinks from a bar near by and then ate hot dosas and fried eggs from the street stalls that appear in the market centre at night.
The next day, we woke up early and took an autorickshaw to the Periyar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary. We wanted to get there as soon as it opened at 6am as we were keen on taking the very first boat ride on Periyar Lake, for a couple of reasons. One, a lot of guides said it was the best time to see animals and the other being, the morning calm in the air. Plus, if we got the very first boat ride itself, we could have left for Ernakulum today itself.
We bouight our tickets (Rs. 150 for the upper deck) and got on our boat.
The reason you see tree branches sticking out of the water is because Periyar Lake is an artificially created lake, flooded when they built the Mullaperiyar Dam in 1895The morning calm surely made for awesome reflections in the water
The boat ride is extremely smooth... and very relaxing
The skies looked good too
We may have woken up real early for this, but the morning ride was well worth itYou could make up for lost sleep here if you wanted to. It's a perfectly quiet environment.This island looked like it belong to a private hotel or resort
Drifting peacefully on this lake, I did wonder what this forest must have looked like before it was floodedThis being a wildlife sanctuary, there are supposed to be animals, even tigers. But all we saw were water buffaloes.Oh well, something better than nothing
Our boat was full of tourists from all over India and abroad
Saw a lot of these birdsDucks?We saw a large variety of birds. Too bad I didn't have a super-zoom lens back then.
An hour into our journey , we spot a few elephants grazing high up on the hillsBut the rest of the time it was bird watching
Here’s a video I took:
After a pleasant journey, we returned back to the banks from where we began our ride
What was a pleasant journey for us ended up being a nightmare for other tourists a few weeks later. On September 30th, one of the tour boats operated by KTDC capsized and over 40 tourists died. It was a grim day for Thekkady’s tourism and one that woke up officials to address passenger safety. It wasn’t even until this incident that the boat operators insisted on life jackets for all passengers. Appalling, when you think about how they wait until some lives were lost to understand the value of certain basics.
We took an auto rickshaw back to our hotelThe wildlife sanctuary is pretty big and you even have a tiger reserve nearbyYou have elephants rides here tooThis being Kerala, you're bound to see a lot of them
We checked out of our hotel, had lunch and got a KSRTC bus going to Ernakulam, Cochin from the town bus station.
This would be a good opportunity to see the sights we missed last nightMan, did we miss some sights alright!
I took all these photos from inside the bus while it drove back down the narrow hill road
Needless to say, the journey was beautiful
The Western Ghats of India are really beautifulThere were quite a few small waterfalls I spottedThe bus even rode past a fewIt's no wonder Idukki district is such a popular tourist destination
We passed a lot of rubber plantations on the way
We reached Ernakulam (Cochin’s main city) just past sunset. After a tea break, we took an autorickshaw to Fort Kochi, where we would be staying the next two days. (Photos from Fort Kochi in the next post)
I initially planned on waking up really early to avoid the crowds that would be thronging Lal Bagh in the days leading up to 26th January (India’s Republic Day), but given the cold weather, throwing aside my cozy blanket and getting out of bed early morning seemed near impossible.
So post lunch, I set off.
I parked my bike inside, paid the Rs. 30 entry fee and walked towards the glasshouseIt was 3pm -- and crowded!I walked around the glasshouse to get to the starting pointEvery year the organizers have one major attraction that's the signature showpieceThis flower show's main attraction was a Peace Pagoda, a Buddhist StupaThis one was modelled on the Buddha Sharira Stupa in Jeju Island, South Korea
Group of Annuals at the corner
Recognized some of the flowers from my last visitRight next to the Geraniums were the DahliasThey - were - pretty
These flowers were quite the hit among the public
Dhalias?
They had a section for orchids
Needless to say the orchids on display were nowhere near the orchid collection I saw in Singapore’s Orchid Garden.
This was the other part of the main attractionI don't know what the inspiration behind this piece of work wasLook, a flower swan too
Wonder what flowers they used
I would say the big attraction was quite impressive his yearThis section was being arranged by a floral arts schoolIt wasn't just flowers they were usingThey had floral arrangements inspired by select Indian states and their respective cultural contributions
This arrangement inspired by Indian classical dance
Inspired by Kerala's symbolic kathakali dance
These rose-like flowers looked really niceWhat the flower is actually called
The ever so interesting cockscomb plant
The Indian flag made using coloured rice grains and our national anthem written using mustard seedsA portrait of the Taj Mahal made using rice grains
It was time to leave
I actually did two rounds — first with my wide angle lens mounted on the camera, and then a second round with my Tamron 28-75mm macro lens.
This is why I need the Tamron lens for such occasionsI love taking such shotsTook the final few shots of the main attraction at this year's flower show
I had spent well over an hour inside the glasshouse
There weren’t many new flower varieties on display inside, many of which I had seen in the last flower show I attended. Still, I got my money’s worth of photographs.
Saw a kid outside blowing soap bubbles and I had the spontaneous instinct to just click this bubbleI'm glad I did -- check out that reflection!Followed the bubble as the wind lifted it up in the sky -- until it burstHistory of the glasshouse at Lal BaghWent up to the fountain
Played around with shutter speedsSlow shutter speedFast shutter speedI was quite enjoying thisOkay fine, I'll stopI stepped away from the fountain
It was nearing 5pmI walked backMade a quick visit in here before leaving
What's a visit to an attraction in India without the presence of these guysInside here, this was drawing a lot nearSo was this sand sculpture paying homage to one of India's greatest epics
The branches look like reindeer antlersAll in all, a good photo session
I wonder what the organizers have in store for this year’s Independence Day Flower Show.
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After a tiring Saturday, we had an extremely relaxing sleep (despite Anand’s heavy snoring — which he denies! ;)). Feeling much better, we packed up and checked out of our room.
I forgot to take a photo of the room when we checked in yesterday, so I made the bed the best I could, just so I could take this shotFrom my phoneWe checked out by 9:45am
We settled our bill, which including yesterday’s food and room tariff, came to Rs. 1080 ($20/€15). Tipped our receptionist/attendant/waiter for all his help, despite his handicap.
We drove back to Gandikota fortFrom Ramesh's cameraFrom Anand's super-zoom cameraWe parked our car here this timeWe walked down this path at first
But we realized we were going down the wrong path, so we walked back up and took a path right behind the towerStill wasn't sure if this was the right way to the temple. There's no sign or anything.But we were getting closer to Madhavaraya templeThe village pipe extends all the way into this wellThere she isBut... we didn't see anybody at the templeAs we walked closer, we saw why there was nobody here. The gates were locked.Damn, came to the fort again just to see this temple!At least Anand's camera caught more parrotsI had no choice but to take photos through a gap in the gatesThe architecture and design looked impressive
Despite the fact we couldn’t go in, standing at gates, we didn’t feel like moving… at all. There was a cool breeze just flowing through and you could hear the distinct sound it made! It was like a ‘natural’ air-conditioning experience — the breeze was really relaxing.
Just then, Ramesh noticed something about a second padlock on the gates…
This smaller gate wasn't locked, Ramesh just pulled the latch and nudged it open!We could now enter the templeSince we were the only ones at the temple, we got selfish and closed the gates so we could go about our photography in peace
The stone carvings were impressive
Went in here
Madhavaraya temple is worth checking out
Ramesh was trying the whole ‘levitating’ shot sequence, so we all got in on it.
We closed the gate as it was earlier and left the templeWe walked back to the carWe were done......it was time to leave Gandikota
We had to drive back to Jammalamadugu
Passed by cotton fields
A lot of windmills being installed in this part of Andhra PradeshWe were taking one straight road to TadipatriWe stopped at a village on the way to have some teaAt the end of this long stretch, take a right to get to Belum Caves
We knew we were getting close, so we stopped here to take a proper photo amongst some sunflowersWe had driven past so many sunflower fields, but never stopped to take any good photos
I love taking macros shots of flowers
Photograph by Anand Phadake
Reached Belum Caves at 12:45pmThere's a massive Buddha statue hereFrom Anand's camera
There was ample parking space for our car, we then walked to the ticket counter.
The entry ticket costs Rs. 40 ($0.75), none of that 'pay extra for camera' nonsense hereDown we went
You see this as soon as you enter the cavesThis is called Gebauer Hall, named after a German speleologist (cave explorer) who re-discovered these caves in the 1980sWe went in
It wasn't until recently that Belum Caves was turned into a tourist attractionThere's droplets of water dripping down the stalactites aboveRamesh and AnandWe kept walking further in
Chalapathi Reddy hall, where some work was going on
I tried my best to take shots without any people, but some sections were just too crowdedRamasubba Reddy hallWe went downYou'll have to mind your head at certain sectionsIt would have been nice if they sold little maps for say, Rs. 10, just so we know where we were goingWe honestly had no clue where we were headed as there are multiple paths
Even underground, our precious natural wonders aren't spared from being vandalized by our country's idiots!
I tried my best to take photos as steady as possible, couldn't set up my tripod everywhereWe often had to wait for paths to clear while other visitors took photosSome areas are really dark, so you have to watch your stepThis wasn't just a section to pose for photosThere are ducts above pumping fresh air into the caves. Oxygen wears thin in certain sections and it can get quite hot deep inside.
I must say, they have done a good job of illuminating the caves
According to mythology, 'Pathala' is the kingdom of demons; Ganga is the river (Ganges to Westerners)I wondered which way to go nextWent the other way instead
It led to this hallAnand cooling off under a vent, and this section needed it!We felt this was a good spot to take a group shot. So as I set the camera on the tripod, Ramesh tested his remote to see if works on my camera.It worked just fineTook one zoomed all the out to give you an idea how wide the hall isI wonder if these lights do the rocks any damage, given how hot they can beWe left the hall
Instead of going back the way we came, we tried another pathAs much as I'm against vandalizing natural wonders... I was *so* tempted to etch cave man drawings on the stones above just to mess with the heads of archeologists
These caves were well worth the visit!Never knew such sights were this close to BangaloreWe headed back
Once back in Ramasubba Reddy hall, we went to the 'Maditation hall'See? Maditation We 'maditated' for a photo
We stopped on the way back to take one last group photo in front of Chalapathi Reddy hallI set up the camera...
Belum Caves 2011... officially done!
Panorama comprised of 2 shots
They have organized tours to Belum Caves. At the ticket counter, you can arrange for a guide too, but they only speak Telugu.
As soon as we all got out into the light, I went to the restrooms and freshened up. Then we had some ice cream and cool drinks to quench our thirsts.
No Aquafine, only Aiwaafine
It was past 2pm and time for lunch, but we were keen to dine at a dhaba on the way. So we drove towards the town of Anantapur and decided to stop at any good dhaba we would come across on the way.
It was going to be one long straight drive from here to Anantapur
Loads of windmillsWe had to stop briefly when we saw this granite mine on the wayNever seen earth being cut like that! Look at all that granite!
Couldn't take a clear shot of this huge cement factory we passed
By 3pm, we were in the town of Anantapur
We assumed Anantapur being a fairly big town, we would find a decent restaurant on this stretch of road, but post 3pm hardly anything that looked decent was open. Plus it was a Sunday.
Wonder how much water is left by the time such tankers reach their destination
We kept driving hoping to find a dhaba on the way, but there hardly any! After yesterday night’s eating and drinking, we decided to give our stomachs a break and didn’t have breakfast at the hotel since all they had were puris — and we knew it was going to be made of maida, just like their chapathis! So all we had was tea, lots of it!
Of course, when we saw this massive water body, we just had to stop!This was Lake Singanamala
Made do with chips for 'lunch,' it is all we could find
We were finally back on NH7 (Bangalore-Hyderabad highway)From here on it was super-smooth sailing!More windmills
The landscape was barren with not a village in sight
Looking at the landscape in this part of India and the quality of the roads built by NHAI, I realized how easy it is to build such highways in such geography. Unlike Kerala’s hilly and rich green landscapes, the land here is mostly flat and uninhabited, making land acquisition easy. Something which is very tough in Kerala given its natural beauty and of course, stupid politics.
That said, I wondered why on earth NHAI couldn’t build a 6 lane (3 on either side) when they had the chance to. Why isn’t every infrastructure project thought about for the long term? Just because there isn’t anything built on either side and the vehicle volumes are presently low, doesn’t mean it will stay that way for the next decade! Grrr, irritates me when the government does this!
The ride handling in Anand Phadake's Ford Fiesta diesel was incredibly stable even at speeds of 140kmph. It's a really good car!We were in Karnataka by around 5pmEnded the day with a beautiful sunset
As we neared Chikbalapur, finding dhabas became easy and we stopped at one to our left.
At 6:30pm, we finally made up for the lack of a proper breakfast, lunch and dinner!
This weekend drive to Gandikota and Belum Caves is easily one of the top weekend drives I have ever been on. We left Saturday morning, reached Gandikota, saw the stunning vistas, had a blast at night with just each other for company. Woke up at a reasonable time today and saw all the above. Had we managed to see Madhavaraya temple yesterday itself, we could have finished Belum Caves by 1pm and been back in Bangalore by sunset.
Mind you, both places aren’t for everyone. The drive maybe easy, but the stay at the APTDC Gandikota Hotel isn’t going to get any better until tourist numbers go up. Also, climbing the rocks to take the kind of photos we took yesterday isn’t that easy for everyone, especially older citizens. Belum Caves is also quite challenging as some sections are suffocating due to the lack of oxygen.
But if you read all that and though “meh, I’ve done greater things!” then the weekend road trip to Gandikota and Belum Caves comes high recommended!
