After yesterday’s grueling photo session, I enjoyed a really good sleep. A little too well I suppose. I got up around 11am and only had ‘breakfast’ by noon. Given it was officially half-day, it was too late for me to go to Mount Pinatubo, which I thought of doing today. Because for that, I should get there early since it involves trekking up to the now dormant volcano.
I could have stayed another day in Angeles City and checked out Clark, but in the end, I decided head back to Manila. Figured if I ever come to Philippines again, Angeles City isn’t too far from Manila and I can do Mount Pinatubo & Clark Duty Free then.
I checked out of Red Tulip Hotel and took a trike to Dau bus terminal.
They punch the ticket. Notice the 100 and the 8 on the top right (₱108 = $2.5/€1.8).Was that Mount Pinatubo?
The journey to Manila took less than one and half hours
I reached Manila by 2pm and I had no clue where in the city I was. All I told the bus folks were that I needed to go to Pasay. They stopped under a big flyover and asked me to get down, saying I can easily get to Pasay from here.
Hailed a taxi, passed by an SM Mall and even Accenture's officeIt was one straight drive, but it cost ₱140 ($3.2/€2.3)! I was NOT happy about spending more on a short drive to Pasay than I did getting to Manila by bus!
I had booked a dorm bed for two nights at Kabayan Hotel, a place I liked a lot. I had to catch an early morning flight to Cebu, so I was going to check out by 5am on Monday.
I got the upper bed. A/C dorm, ₱550 when I booked it. Website lists ₱610 ($14/€10) now. I still think it's worth it. You get all the usual Kabayan inclusions like set breakfast AND lunch, with complimentary wi-fi. Pillow and towel inside the locker. The locker came in handy, since I could keep my camera bag inside it and go out. Most hostels charge extra for lockers, and they are usually outside your room.They have a well kept toilet and shower inside the roomThe hallway looks like every other hallway on the other floors. Kabayan doesn't make you feel cheap even if you are staying in the dormitory.If the toilet in your room is occupied, there are many toilets and shower rooms on the floorI stepped out with just my 7D and the Tamron lens attached. I wanted to travel light for once. This is the scene just outside Kabayan and the Pasay MRT station.
I boarded a jeepney and decided to check out Mall of Asia, which was very close by.
I don't remember how much the fare was exactly, but I believe it was around ₱10The journey takes just 5 minutes from Pasay MRT
When it opened in 2006, Mall of Asia was the largest shopping mall in Asia, but has since moved down to third place after Dubai Mall‘s arrival.
I had to take multiple shots using the Tamron lens to get wide shots like thisMerging three shots to create this wide shot unfortunately cost that white man his head. Sorry dude, blame Photoshop.Today was a Saturday, so it was expected the mall was going to be crowdedThe virtual mall directory assistant
There was a small exhibition of properties by SMDC (SM Corp. is the largest property company in Philippines).
Being curious as to how much the cost of apartments were in Manila, I acted as a potential buyer and checked out the properties on offer. A lot of the apartment sizes (compared to India) were pretty small. ‘Large’ flats were 1000-1200sqft, while there were plenty of studios on offer. Prices for apartments ranged from 2 million to 4 million pesos and higher. Expensive, I initially thought. Maybe its because most of the buyers they target are OFWs (Overseas Filipino Workers), who earn higher wages.
But then I realized that it’s 2,000,000-4,000,000+ Philippines pesos. I mentally re-arranged the zeroes into the Indian numeric system and realized that’s 20,00,000 to 40,00,000 (lakh) rupees! It struck me as affordable — and that too in a city like Manila, which has far better infrastructure than most Indian cities! (Yes Filipinos, complain all you want about Manila. Visit Mumbai/Bombay and then compare the two. You’ll appreciate Manila a lot more.)
It pissed me off (not the first time) thinking how over-priced and unjustified the Indian real estate market is. For a minute, I even considered moving to Manila. Then I thought about the lack of Indian food here, and the frequent typhoons.
Back to the mall.
They have an ACE Hardware outlet here
People watching other people skateThis is an Olympic-sized ice rinkThe Biebs was going to be in Manila. Unfortunately, I would miss the opportunity to see 2AM live as I would be travelling that day. They're really good! Loved 'Saint O'Clock'!They also have an IMAX screen at the multiplex
A novel contraption that makes you curious how fast some coins take to reach the hole. Also a novel way for the mall to get free change.I decided to walk to the promenade
There are over-bridges to get to the BaywalkPlenty of restaurants by the bayWatching the sun set by the bay is a popular activityScores of people visit the Baywalk in the evenings. More so on weekends.Packed with families too!
They have band performances here
Manila PortThey also have fun zip line activities
Panorama comprised of 11 shotsA stature paying tribute to hard working Filipinos -- and Manny Pacquiao, the most famous Filipino in the world currently.Faux Jabbawockeez preparing to do... something
People had gathered to see faux Jabbawockeez perform. Though these guys seemed like a mime act.The convention center, where Maroon 5 was also scheduled to perform in a few days"Hello to you too!"I decided to walk back to the mall and come back once the sun had set
The interiors of this big mall aren't all that impressive, but then nothing is, compared to Dubai MallThis globe apparently lights up at nightBack outside...Love the colours!
Given it was really humid, I craved for some ice cream. Bought one, which began melting by the time I tore through the paper wrapping. Had to gulp it up quick.
Left the baywalk once it had gotten darkThere was little else left to see
Despite being one of the most famous malls in Philippines, Mall of Asia still offers a lot of affordable shopping. It isn’t one of those glamorous malls that draws a lot of people in but where you hardly see any of them actually shopping. There’s something for everyone at Mall of Asia.
The LED globe was lit, and was showing ads among other visuals
I really didn’t have anything else planned after this. My friend Aimee and I had initially thought of catching up, but we decided to push it to Sunday as she was going to show me around Manila tomorrow.
I took a jeepney and headed back to Kabayan Hotel. I left the camera in my locker and decided to take a stroll camera-free for a change.
I decided to explore the Pasay area a bit more, which wasn't a very clean area to be honestI began walking under the other line of the MRT and came across what looked like a street marketHawkers selling everything from fake goods, toys, fruits, clothes, t-shirts, pirated CDs and other fashion accessoriesIt extends a fairly long wayI walked all the way to the end of the track
And then I walked all the way back. Quite an unexpected discovery this was for me. I refrained from buying anything though, as I decided I would keep all my shopping for the last two days of this trip.
When I got back to the main Pasay junction, I decided to try out Chowking, the Chinese food offering from the owners of Jollibee.
Ordered their pork fried rice, dumplings and root beer combo meal for ₱80 ($1.8/€1.3). How was it? Bleurgh! Probably the worst fried rice I've ever tasted. The momos were alright, but then again, how hard is it to screw that up. Sorry Chowking.
After the poor dinner, I went back to my room and decided to spend a few hours on the internet.
The dormitory floor has a recreation lounge with a big screen TV, comfy chairs, and a few computers. You can bring your laptop here and use the wi-fi. Even though the speed wasn't great, I wasn't complaining. I have never experienced such a value-for-money hotel anywhere!
If I ever decide to start a hotel of my own, I would look to Kabayan for inspiration. I really appreciated the quality of service Kabayan offers its customers.
So this what I did today. Basically, nothing much.
Just like how I began my last review, I never thought I would be writing about KARA as well. Despite their fame and current status in K-pop land, I never took Kara seriously. I blame DSP Media for that. Kara’s company insisted on highlighting silly dances, especially after the success of the “butt dance” from “Mister”, and signature dances like that became Kara’s trademark.
As for the songs – “Mister,” “Lupin” and “Jumping” were all catchy enough to warrant their success, but those songs were never up to the calibre of say, SNSD’s hits — a group they are (strangely) often compared to.
So have KARA stepped up with this comeback? After hearing the title track, oh YES!
When I first heard the audio for “Step,” it didn’t wow me right away. But after the first listen, the song interested me enough to make me want to hear it a second time. By the time the MV (music video) came out, I was officially hooked on the song!
“Step” is definitely the upgrade Kara needed. Everything from the song’s production, to the music video is top notch. As for the silly ‘signature dance’ department, DSP Media continues to insist on including another butt-shaking, hip gyrating move. It’s not as prominent, but I’m sure the girls will be asked to demonstrate it on variety shows. *shudders*
Anyway, the song. DSP used the usual words to describe it as “catchy” “electronic” “fun” “colourful,” etc. “Step” is all that, but the main reason why the song resonated with me is because of its strong 1980s-pop influence. From the synthesizer hook, the beats, the build-up to the chorus, the bridge… it all reeks of 80’s pop music.
Produced by Sweetune, the song writing duo (Han Jae Ho and Kim Seung Soo) who are responsible for pretty much every KARA hit so far, “Step” is their strongest single to date. It sounds different, and most importantly, fresh!
The girls have a lot to be cheerful about with this hit
The music video plays on the 80’s vibe with its neon colours and bright fashion. And aside from the ’round & round’ butt dance, I really like the rest of the choreography.
Therefore “Step,” the single, gets a strong 4.5 out of 5 from me. It’s a sign second tier companies like DSP Media are now racing ahead to reach the standards set by the giants of K-pop (SM, YG and JYP).
As for ‘Step,’ the album… I really didn’t feel like writing a track-by-track review because none of the other songs on the album really caught my attention. “Rider” feels over-produced, but good enough to warrant its second place in the tracklist. “Strawberry” is expectedly sweet, the chorus of “Follow Me” sounds ABBA-esque, “Date (My Boy)” sounds too J-pop — but is one of the better album tracks, and “I Am… (ING)” is just an acoustic version of this two-year old song. Which by the way is the only ballad on the album (I’m ignoring the bonus track), so you get to hear the girl’s strong vocals.
A good album for Kamilias (KARA’s official fanclub), but not good enough to make me want to listen to it again after this review goes live.
P.S: How thin is Goo Hara? You can see gaps even when she’s wearing a full body suit! 😀
Good Friday — today was the big day. I promptly got up on time, had breakfast and was out of the hotel by 8am. I walked to the jeepney terminal and got into one that would first go to Dau and then to San Fernando. The ride to Dau took just 5 minutes, and from there, I was asked to get into another jeepney going to San Fernando city, the capital of Pampanga province.
The ride to San Fernando took around 30 minutes and cost ₱32 ($0.75/€0.52). As soon as I reached the San Fernando city center…
... the 'rituals' had begunLocals flagellating themselves are referred to as the 'mamalaspas' in Filipino
I didn’t know where the jeepney was headed or where it was going to finally stop, but I didn’t wait to find out. As the jeepney slowed down in traffic, I got down.
Despite the blood, this was an all family affair
WARNING: From here on, you are going to see a lot of photographs of people with bloodied-backs. The act of self-flagellation (usually whipping oneself or beating methodically) is a common practice in many religions. In the following context, the act is seen as means of repenting for one’s sins. You may think they are beating themselves to a bloodied state but in reality, they make small cuts on their backs with a blade. They then use those whips with wooden bristles at the end to whip themselves, quite gently ctually. The bristles get stained by blood and eventually spread out out the blood across their backs. But rarely is one profusely bleeding because of the cuts.
Everybody was headed towards the Metropolitan Cathedral of San FernandoThey all convene in front of the church. (By the way, it was scorching hot today!)The flagellants stop in front of the cross, kneel before it or lay flat on the groundThe act of flagellation here is out of devout worship, or so they claimDespite the bloody appearance, they really don't hit themselves that hard
They are even lightly kicked
As one group of devotees would leave, more would come through the gatesOften led by cross-bearers, called 'mamusan krus'I can't imagine how their bare backs must have felt in this heat
While devout Catholics bled outside, the more restraint were praying inside
This was a photography opportunity like no otherThere were many others just like me who came to capture today's peculiar festivities (Shot on the 450D*)To us, this was more an 'interesting' event than a religious one
(Shot on 450D*)
Not sure the formation of a heart shape is intentional or not
It was so hot that I was done with the bottle of water I was carrying in a matter of minutes. There were hawkers and vendors selling ice cream, water bottles and chilled coconut water. I had one glass of that, and then another. Five minutes later, another glass. Dehydration was a major issue in this heat!
These nuns were a lot less tepid with their act of penance
More and more flagellants just kept coming
Not sure if they were covering their faces more so that people will not know they took part in this actBloody, yes, but none of them were screaming in pain
After spending more than an hour at the cathedral, I felt it was time for me to move on
I drank another glass of coconut water, bought a bottle of water and left the cathedral.
This was the only 'hotel' I could find in the area (Shot on 450D*)It was right next to the cathedral
There were taxis, both jeepneys and pedal taxis to take people to San Pedro Cutud, where the site of the crucifixion re-enactment would be taking place. I decided to take a cycle taxi.Shot the following using my Canon 450D*
Flagellants from barangays (villages) walking towards the Metropolitan Cathedral of San FernandoIt was a short ride that took around 5 minutesThe taxi driver dropped me here and told me I had go through this alley to get to the main road leading to the siteThis led to the site of the passion play
Today's show would feature horses too I presume"One photo? One bottle!"Took around 10 minutes of walking to get to the crucifixion grounds (Shot on 450D*)The crowds weren't huge yet, which was good as I wanted to come early and find a good spot for myself
The crosses for today's crucifixionJesus, or rather the one who playing him today, gets nailed to the cross in the middleI could see a media platform and I wondered if there was a chance for me to get on there with all the equipment I was carrying
I walked up to the media registration counter and told them I was from India and I run my own website. I was wearing my “It’s Football, Not Soccer” t-shirt and pointed to the back to show him my url (which was printed on the back). I also showed him the equipment I was carrying, and that was it — I got the pass to go on the media platform! 🙂
I came hoping to secure a good spot and I end up getting a great spot! (450D*)The view from here was perfect!Flagellants walk in this heat barefoot, and then get whipped? The torture!The locals unfortunately had to watch it from there (Panorama comprised of 8 shots)To say this isn't a major media event here in the Philippines would be an understatementThe GMA news crewThere were photographers representing reputed press agencies like the Associated PressThey all had some serious gear
Not to feel left out, I set up my tripod, raised it to its highest and mounted the 70-200mm lens on my 7D. Trouble is, it was even more scorching hot here! My sunglasses and sunscreen weren’t enough for the burning heat. Many had umbrellas and I felt I should have carried mine as well. I hadn’t experienced such piercing heat since my years in Bahrain.
Some of the flagellants passed out in the heat and had to be taken away by medics in stretchers (450D*)It was so hot, people took refuge under the stage. But not for long. Security came by and asked them to please come out. Probably because the authorities didn't want to be held responsible if the stage collapsed on them (450D*)
All of a sudden…
... a mini-tornado formed and began swirling around in the grounds (450D*)It eventually dispersed but not before taking out a stall's canopy (450D*)Well, that's one way to get a better view 🙂 (450D*)Back on the hilly mound, the flagellants kept on coming (450D*)
I stood on the platform at around 11:30pm, and everyone here was getting restless in the heat, wondering when the ‘show’ would start. A lot of worshipers kept coming, but not ‘Jesus’.
Even this guy in a gown cameThis dude came carrying a white crossUnfortunately, he too passed out due to the heatHe also had to be taken on a stretcherWhere medics were on hand
Finally, just past 1:45pm…
The passion play was about to begin (450D*)
Mother Mary and her entourage made their way
Jesus escorted by Roman soldiers for his impending crucifixionThe actors make their way to the crossesThe (Filipino) Roman soldiers push (Filipino) Jesus aroundJesus gets kicked to the ground
Time for the crucifixionThey lower the crossHey, that's the guy who asked for a bottle in exchange for a photograph from earlier 🙂They deliver a few lines (Few of the actors like the woman playing Mother Mary had mics)They raise two other penitents
Though these guys weren't nailed to the crossFilipino Jesus getting readyChecks the nails
There goes in the first one!And here comes the second oneFilipino Jesus didn't have a mic on him, but you could still hear him scream from where I was standing (and some in the crowd jeered and laughed)"You raise me up...."
In case you had any doubts on whether they actually did nail his palmsIf you thought it was over, no. They nail his feet as well.Though I wondered if they just nailed in between his toes
Some more chantsAfter a few minutes, they take out the nails
The soldiers bring him down
Wonder where they were taking 'Jesus'Oh that's right, the hospital
At this point, few of the locals were cheering as ‘Jesus’ was taken away by medics. One could tell from the laughter that this passion play has become less of a religious event and more, comical of sorts.
Anyway, just when I thought it was all over, the announcement came on to inform us that there are going to be other penitents crucified on the cross. These people volunteer in the hope that, by doing so, they are forgiven for their sins.
They bring down the other two volunteersThe second batch of penitents took their placesHere they go again
There was chatter going around me saying these people who volunteer to be crucified are drunk, so they feel less pain.
Looking at some of their faces, who knows, could be true. Though it defeats the purpose if they volunteered to do this in a bid to quit their alcoholism in the first place!
Now for the third penitentI don't know if that medic is capturing this in the name of science 🙂
The put a lot of effort into this event, with the costumes of that era and all thatExcept for, you know, the occasional airplane flying above (450D*)Shot with the 70-200mm lensIs there something symbolic of spearing one's heart (or torturing one's nipple?)I left the media stage and move to the side of the grounds. Plus, the media platform became 'everybody's platform' after the villagers ran on-stage.
There were more penitents in queue
By the point, the locals had infiltrated the grounds and were inching their way closer to the crosses to try and get a closer look.
The 'Romans' tried to stop themBut eventually...
I bumped into the American girl whom I had met on the journey from Baguio to Sagada two days ago. We chatted for a bit and when we saw the people thronging towards the cross, we both assumed the same thing: “Hey, when in Rome…”
And so we both climbed up to get a closer look
What I really wanted to know is why there isn't any blood and was the nail going all the way through his hand. Gory thoughts, I know, but I was still curious.I tried to get a closer look but there were so many people in my waySo I held out my cell phone and took a snap. This is what I captured. So I guess they really do nail their legs.
Since the hustle and bustle was getting a bit too much, I just used my phone to record this video as they were about to take the nails out of the penitents:
As you can tell from the above video, the locals found all this just as amusing as I did. (Just so you know, I don’t find blood and gore ‘amusing’ — it was this whole act and how the crowds were reacting to it that I found amusing).
(Taken on the Nokia E72)
In fact this event shouldn’t be taken seriously. These crucifixions aren’t even organized by the church. In fact, the Catholic Church condone it and do not endorse them in anyway.
It was a local theatrical troupe in the 1950s that first reenacted the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. It became popular enough to become an annual event. Word spread across the Philippines, and later, the world. It became a media event, and an interesting one, for photographers both amateur and professionals alike.
Safe to assume these guys take this act very seriously?Anyway, I had seen enough. It was time for me to leave
Hawkers were making hay while the heat took its toll on me. All I had the past 3 hours were lots of water and ice cream. I couldn't wait to get back to the city and eat something heavy. (Nokia e72)
Looking around you can see why the City of San Fernando continues to host this event. San Pedro Cutud is an impoverished village with little else to offer tourists (same can be said about San Fernando city too). So Good Friday seems to be the only day in their calendar where locals earn good income selling everything from drinks to food. There are thousands who visit San Fernando just for this.
Walking back, the flagellants were still at itThis was at 3:30pm
The road was jammed, and I had to squeeze through people, cycles, and cars just to get aheadDC Comics says Congressman Dong Gonzalves is no hero (You may not get the reference if you don't read comics or recognize that logo)
I managed to get a bicycle taxi further up the road, and I asked him to take me back to the cathedral in San Fernando city.
It was nearing 4pmAs always, there's was a McDs and a Jollibee right next to each other. I chose to go to McDonald's.
The McDonald’s was full of tourists who had just come back from San Pedro Cutud as well. Freshened up, sat in the air conditioning and enjoyed my meal. After the meal, I sat a few minutes longer and reviewed my photographs. Needless to say, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. I came, I saw, I captured.
But the day wasn’t over yet. Though many were making the long journey back to Manila, I stayed back in San Fernando because I had only planned on leaving after I photographed the procession at night.
I walked back to the cathedral
There were many floats (or 'carrozas') that were going to be used in tonight's processionThe man whom this city is named after
I just stood outside, hoping the sun would set early and the procession would start some time soon. It was just 5pm, so I knew I had quite a bit of waiting to do.
Boy: "Hey!" (grabs sister)... "take photo mister" ~ Me: *clicks* ~ Boy: "Oh, he's actually taking a photo?" (shy)After that, these guys asked for photos. I had to click. And no, I'm not going to put them *all* up. Don't know why they ask for photographs but never ask for a copy. Probably think I'm a newspaper photographer.I noticed these 'No to RH bill' banners on many of the churches here and I had to ask my friend Aimee what the bill was. Turns out it is a Reproductive Health Bill proposed by the Government to control population growth by encouraging the use of contraceptives -- but the church is against it! It was just one of many things I would later learn about the thin line separating church and state in Philippines.I thought of sitting inside the cathedral for some timeBut instead, I went for a strollThe carrozas were lining up
He's highThere were more carrozas brought in from other areas
Looks like the procession was about to begin
Really, they made 13 shitty sequels?
I walked back to the cathedral and saw people walking as the procession had begun. I asked a police officer as to where they were headed and he told me they would be going around and coming back to the cathedral by sunset. I only wanted to take photos of the procession once it had gotten dark, so I sat inside the cathedral until the sun had completely set.
Sitting inside the cathedral under the fans made me feel sleepy. I guess all that scorching heat and the early morning wake up was getting to me.
The dome
After half an hour, I looked outside and by 6:30pm, the sun had set. So I left the cathedral.
There's a lot of grilled chicken on the streets of PhilippinesI waited for the procession to make its way down this road
The carrozas were lit up, which made them even more beautiful
Definitely more than a thousand people were taking part in this procession
I took one final parting shot as the procession group continued its way into the city
And with that, I was done! Phew, what a day!
I walked by myself down the quiet road and tried to catch a jeepney going to Angeles City.
It was 7:15pm when I clicked this photo
I had to wait around 15 minutes until I finally managed to get a jeepney going to Angeles City.
It took nearly half and hour with all the stops until I finally got to Angeles City
But the driver eventually asked me, where exactly I wanted to go because he was nearing his final stop.
I didn't quite recognize any of the surroundings, so I told the driver I needed to go near SM Clark. He said, for that I'd have to hop onto another jeepney passing by Balibago
Which is what I did. Then when I got asked to get down from the second jeepney, I saw SM Clark, but it was still a bit far. So I hopped into another jeepney going up Perimeter Road and got down at the jeepney terminal.
Three jeepneys and ₱50 later, I was back in familiar territory. Even though I wanted to go back to my room and take a bath, I decided to have dinner now itself since I was out anyway. Plus, I was desperately craving some chilled beer!
Despite being Good Friday, some of the nightclubs and casinos were open. I took a stroll down Walking Street and finally ended up sitting at club called Angel Witch, only because it sounded badass and they were playing rock music. They had a few girls dancing to Bon jovi’s “It’s My Life,” but 15 minutes later and a beer down, I was bored and soon left.
I stopped by the Turkish restaurant on the way back, packed a meal and walked back to my room. I got out of my blood-stained clothes (you can’t help it, droplets of blood will splatter on you if you are close to the flagellants) and enjoyed a good, clean shower.
As I copied my photos over to my back-up hard drive, I couldn’t be more happier with my coverage of this, erm, interesting event. The above are just 220 of the 793 photos(yup!) I shot using my three devices: my Canon 7D (mostly), the Canon 450D* and my cellphone.
With the main event of this trip in the bag, I felt this visit to Philippines was well worth my money and time. And to think, I still had more than a week left and a lot more to see in this country!
*Regarding the photos taken using the Canon 450D. I mounted my wide angle lens on the 450D so that I could use the other lenses on my 7D. But I noticed just about every image I shot on the 450 was very blue. I only realized this after I had taken a few shots and I could figure out why the photos came out that way. The tungsten filter wasn’t enable and the white balance was et to auto. I couldn’t afford to restore the camera to factory setting in case it formatted the SD card in the process.
I did try and correct the blueish hue in every image, but only some I could turn from this:
When it opened in 2006, Mall of Asia was the largest shopping mall in Asia, but has since moved down to third place after Dubai Mall‘s arrival.
Despite being one of the most famous malls in Philippines, Mall of Asia still offers a lot of affordable shopping. It isn’t one of those glamorous malls that draws a lot of people in but where you hardly see any of them actually shopping. There’s something for everyone at Mall of Asia.
I really didn’t have anything else planned after this. My friend Aimee and I had initially thought of catching up, but we decided to push it to Sunday as she was going to show me around Manila tomorrow.
