Flying over Phnom Penh Cambodia

Cambodia: Arriving in Phnom Penh

Date: 10 May, 2018

Yeah, I know. I’m late to get started on this trip series. Let’s just say 2018 was busy work-wise… and this blogger was a bit lazy, “personal-wise”. This journey didn’t begin in Cambodia. It began in Chiang Mai (Thailand) where I met up with my girlfriend, who was attending a work conference there. After spending a few days showing her the sights in my favourite city in Thailand, attending a Thai cooking class, doing the Golden Triangle tour (my second time), we went to Bangkok and then took an Air Asia flight from Don Mueang airport early in the morning.

Don Muang airport check-in
Don Mueang airport was sooooooo noisy, mostly because of the hordes of Mainland Chinese (package) tourists! Especially those flying to the smaller Chinese cities

Our flight to Phnom Penh was an Air Asia flight. We checked in using the self-service machines and managed to check-in our bags slightly quicker than those who hadn’t checked-in online.

Tip: This is my first time flying out of Don Mueang airport and didn’t know it would be this crowded this early in the morning. So best to check-in on online before arriving at the airport.

Don Muang airport immigration
Don Mueang was Bangkok’s old international airport. When Suvarnabhumi opened in 2006, Don Mueang got used mostly for domestic flights and then later became a hub for budget airlines like Air Asia, Nok Air and more. You have many international flights to & from Don Mueang nowadays.
Don Mueang airport shops
It’s obviously not as big and posh as Suvarnabhumi but it has all the necessary amenities and shops
Warning of overstay Thailand
Thailand is getting strict with overstayers and those working in the country illegally… of which there are many
Bangkok view take off from Don Muang
The Air Asia flight took off on time
Chao Praya river aerial view Bangkok
The mighty Chao Praya river flows through Bangkok
Suvarnabhoomi airport aerial view
We flew over Suvarnabhumi airport
Aerial view paddy fields Thailand
The wetlands you see just before leaving Thailand
Aerial view Thailand river
The views were nice but it was still pretty early in the morning
Chicken panang curry Thai omlette
We pre-booked our meals and so our breakfast was Chicken panang curry with rice, topped with a Thai omelette. It was yum!
Aerial view cloud mountain
The flight to Phnom Penh was just over an hour

Cambodia (along with Vietnam) are the two countries in South East Asia I still look forward to visiting. Nothing against Indonesia and Laos — I will scratch those two off my list one day — but I wanted to visit to Cambodia foremost to see Angkor Wat. Knowing the largest Hindu temple complex in the world is not in India always fascinated me.

Flying over Cambodia
Pretty soon we were descending
Flying over Phnom Penh Cambodia
Phnom Penh (pronounced “puh-nom pen”), the capital of Cambodia
Aerial view Phnom Penh Cambodia
Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s largest city
Phnom Penh airport Cambodia
Phnom Penh International Airport is actually Cambodia’s second largest airport. The one in Siem Reap is bigger and busier — all thanks to the tourism Angkor Wat brings in
Inside Phnom Penh airport Cambodia
Immigration was a breeze as I applied for e-visa beforehand. Indians get visa on arrival in Cambodia but I recommend just getting the e-visa because it’s quick and easy.

This is the website for Cambodia e-visa. It costs $36 for a single entry tourist visa. I applied online and got the visa approved overnight. You just need to print and carry two copies of the visa with you.

Mobile SIM Phnom Penh airport Cambodia
Once outside, the first thing I did was get a SIM card. Plenty of service providers have shops outside the terminal. Costs just $5 for a few GB of data (I don’t remember the provider)
Outside Phnom Penh airport Cambodia
We took a prepaid taxi to our hotel (cost $15 for the 15kms journey)

If you are wondering about the use of dollars, in Cambodia, the US dollar is a legally accepted currency and widely the preferred choice in the tourism sector here. The Cambodian Riel is the national currency but it has a very low value. Around 4000 KHR is 1 USD (₹70). You can pay in Cambodian Riel too but when the amounts gets larger, trying to calculate how many thousands you have to take out of your wallet… it gets confusing and you just end up paying in US dollars. The acceptance of US dollars is also a way for Cambodia to pump up its forex reserves.

Inside taxi Phnom Penh
At first impression, it’s obvious Cambodia is still a developing country. Much of the city looks no better than most Indian cities.
Pass app auto Phnom Penh
Was surprised to see quite a lot of Bajaj autos on the roads 🙂 These were part of the Pass (ride hailing app) network. Grab taxi (app) is also an option in Phnom Penh.
Chinese construction Phnom Penh
But as we drove through Phnom Penh, I couldn’t help but notice but the flurry of construction and the signboards in Chinese.

Since this trip ended and I returned to India, I’ve been doing my research on Chinese investments in Cambodia (and across South East Asia) and China’s growing influence in the region. But I will get into the details about China’s investments in Cambodia later. I had a meaningful chat with a young Cambodian college graduate on one of our later tours who gave me a good insight into what the locals think about the growing Chinese presence in Cambodia and how much they despise their politicians for basically selling their country to the emerging super power. For example, the Cambodian government leased 20% of Cambodia’s coastline to a Chinese consortium for 99 years and sold it for just $30 per hectare, despite protests from locals. And those new high-rise apartments (pictured above) aren’t mainly for Cambodian buyers.

Cambodia’s politicians are very open to asking for and accepting ‘gifts’ from China while the nation (among the poorest in Asia) still needs to figure out a way to pay back China’s debt (which is nearing $5 billion). What’s happening to Cambodia’s is a very interesting one (especially if you have been following China’s massive Belt & Road project and their “debt trap” strategy… using which China took over Sri Lanka’s Hambantota Port for 99 years).

Council ministers building Phnom Penh
How China gets a free pass in Cambodia is pretty evident from this building. Unlike all other investments funded by China using loans, this building was a $33 million “gift” from China to Cambodia. What is it? It’s the Council of Ministers building — where the top government officials all sit and work 🙂

Not that China is the only country that has played around with Cambodia for their selfish interests. I was interested in visiting Cambodia because this is one South East Asian country (other being Vietnam) with a sad past of colonialism and post-colonial horrors. A past in which France, United States, Soviet Union, Vietnam, China — all played a part one way or another at different points of time in the last century. Worse so by the good ol’ “we-love-to-bomb-countries” USA.

NOTE: The above video’s title is a bit-misleading. The US didn’t install Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge dictator that massacred millions, but the massive bombing of Cambodia by the US during the Vietnam war changed the circumstances in Khmer Rouge’s favour, which is what helped them take power in Cambodia. I’m not going to go into the details of the Khmer Rouge, you have Wikipedia and countless other sources for that.

But more on Cambodia’s past in the next two posts. It’s what most visitors to Phnom Penh come to see and how we began our sight-seeing in this country — the infamous “Killing fields” and the S-21 detention center — where thousands were tortured and brutally killed by the Khmer Rouge.

Khavi villa swimming pool Phnom Penh
We stayed at Khavi Villa, a villa-turned guesthouse which I selected due to its location
Khavi villa bar Phnom Penh
But the place had all the essentials for our stay
Khavi villa bed Phnom Penh
Our room was spacious enough, the A/C worked fine, toilet was clean, the Wi-Fi was spotty at times but worked and the bed was comfortable. And those are the essentials we care about.

I was just glad to have checked in. I was so sleepy because I barely slept the night prior. We both were but due to my over-sleeping, we missed lunch. By the time I woke up and we stepped out again… it was already evening :/

We had an early dinner and then walked around to see the Mekong River Promenade and the Phnom Penh Night Market but I’ll make that the next post. Thus begins my Cambodia series — the 10th country I have visited (12th if you count Hong Kong & Macau as separate nations).

NOTE: All the above photos were taken using my phone camera (OnePlus 5)

Next post in this series:

Cambodia: Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh Night market

Cambodia: Choeung Ek genocidal center — the infamous “Killing Fields”

Cambodia: S21, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Cambodia: Phnom Penh Central Market and Wat Phnom

Cambodia: Mekong River Sunrise Cruise… and an insight into Chinese investment in the region

Cambodia: Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh

Cambodia: Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by bus

Cambodia: Visiting Angkor Wat

Cambodia: Bayon temple – the one famous for stone faces

Cambodia: Ta Keo temple

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