St. Francis church Fort Kochi

Fort Kochi 2018: St. Francis Church, Jew Town and Mattancherry

Date: March 14, 2018

This was our last day in Kochi. After breakfast, we set out early to take the ferry to Fort Kochi. We took an auto rickshaw from our hotel to the Ernakulam boat jetty.

Ferry boat jetty Ernakulam
Our ride
Inside Fort Kochi ferry
Boats are frequent — and cheap
Cochin Port Trust administration building
This is the Cochin Port Trust administration office building
Taj Malabar Resort Spa Cochin
And this is the Taj Malabar Resort & Spa
Sukhayus Fort Kochi Kerala
We got down at Fort Kochi jetty and just walked to the tourist area
Cochin Aquatic Club Kerala
There’s a very artistic flair to Fort Kochi
Maritime the Lost Hostel Kochi
This is Maritime, The Lost Hostel, a popular choice in Fort Kochi for backpackers
Hostel by the Sea Fort Kochi
Hostel By the Sea, by the state-run Kerala Tourism Development Corporation
Fort Cochin brick road
This is my second visit to Fort Kochi. You can read about my 2009 visit here.

One of Fort Kochi’s most popular attractions are the Chinese fishing nets, called so because Chinese traders brought this fishing system to Cochin centuries ago. This is how it works:

We began walking around Fort Kochi.

Strangely beautiful tree fruit kochi
Spotted some wild but interesting looking trees
Large tree Fort Cochin
This one was rather large
Ayana Fort Kochi hotel Kerala
You have a bunch of boutique hotels in Fort Kochi. This is the Indy Old Court House.
Princess street Fort Cochin Kerala
This is Princess Street, which is lined with small hotels, shops and cafes
Sonetta residency Fort Kochi
When I visited in 2009, we stayed at Sonetta Residency
Park Avenue hotel Fort Kochi
You also have options from Oyo too (download the app)
Fort Kochi shalom shop Kerala
Fort Kochi was home to a large population of Malabar Jews… but this area is not Jew Town. That’s in Mattancherry (same island, different side).
Fort Kochi Lilly street hotel
We walked around Fort Kochi, which is honestly the best way to see the place
Bernard bungalow Kochi Kerala
Bernard Bungalow is a luxury homestay
The Spencer home Fort Cochin
A lot of these old homes were built during Dutch colonial times. It’s good they have been converted into boutique guesthouses and hotels instead of being torn down.
Passage Malabar deli cochin
Passage Malabar is a deli and artisanal cafe
Delight homestay Fort Kochi
Delight Homestay — one of the better looking homestays I saw in Fort Kochi
Broken beach shore Fort Kochi Kerala
Fort Kochi is close to the sea shore… but I don’t know what happened here
Indian Oil refinery Kochi Kerala
Cochin is a major trade port and home to Kochi Refinery, the largest state owned oil refinery in India
The Poovath Heritage Fort Kochi beach inn
We walked past the Dutch cemetery… and here too you have hotels. The Poovath Heritage (left) and Fort Kochi Beach Inn (right)
St. Francis church Fort Kochi
Our walk brought us around to St. Francis Church, originally built in 1503 and is among the oldest European churches in India
Inside St. Francis church Fort Kochi
But it’s most notable for being the initial burial place of famed Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama
Vasco da Gama tomb cochin
This is where Vasco Da Gama was buried upon his death in 1524. His remains were later moved to Lisbon.
Remembering Vasco Da Gama
This asshole landed in Calicut and helped kickstart the fight for Kerala first by the Portuguese, then the Dutch and eventually the British — mostly driven by the greed to profit off Kerala’s spices (most notably pepper)
Old house Fort Kochi Kerala
We continued our walk around Fort Kochi

Done with our tour of Fort Kochi, I hired an Uber to take us to Mattancherry, which is the area where you find Jew Town and Mattancherry Palace.

The Delta study Fort Kochi Kerala
The Delta Study is a school
Pazhayannur bhagavathy temple Mattancherry
The Uber dropped us off at Pazhayannur bhagavathy temple, which is one way to enter Mattancherry Palace
Mattancherry palace Cochin Kerala
Mattancherry palace is now a museum
Cochin Raja meeting Dutch painting
I’m not going to publish many photos from inside the museum because that feels like taking away from their revenues. The historical collection is small but pretty impressive. The above painting depicts the Cochin Rajas meeting with the Dutch who colonized this part of Cochin.
Jew town entrance Cochin Kerala
A short walk from Mattancherry Palace is Jew Town
Handicrafts Jew town Cochin Kerala
Now filled with more shops catered to tourists than Cochin/Malabari Jews (very, very few remain — most migrated to Israel, USA or have died). I saw more Kashmiris manning the shops here than Cochin Jews.
Fort Kochi way to Synagogue
We walked towards the Jewish Synagogue
Jew town Fort Kochi houses
My 2009 post has some stories from this green house
Jewish synagogue Fort Cochin Kerala
Photography is not permitted inside the synagogue but it’s still worth the visit. It was built in 1567 and has wall paintings depicting the expulsion of Jews by the Romans, which is how Jews landed in Kerala centuries ago.
Police museum Fort Kochi
A short walk from the synagogue is the Kerala Police Museum
Jew cemetery lane Fort Kochi
I just wanted to visit the Jewish cemetery or at least find out where it was located
Jewish cemetery Fort Kochi
This is the Jewish cemetery. I guess this will be all that remains of Malabari Jews in Cochin in a few years time.
Mattancherry boat jetty ferry station
Done with all the sightseeing, we headed back via the Mattancherry boat jetty
Mattancherry abandoned buildings Kerala
For all the initiatives the state tourism board gets in involved with, why can’t they at least fix the basics like this? Why can’t spot like this be revitalized? The private sector can transform areas like this to sea-facing quality restaurants and bars. It’s better than leaving it such an ugly state!
Cochin port Ernakulam Kerala
It was a short ferry ride back to Ernakulam
Boat ride to Ernakulam Kerala
The skies were grey for much of the day, it started to clear up only now

Once back in Ernakulam, we took an auto rickshaw back to our hotel to pick up our luggage. After lunch, we headed to Ernakulam Town railway station (a.k.a Ernakulam North) to catch the Cannanore Express back home.

AC chair car Indian railways
This is what the AC chair car compartments looks like in the Cannanore Express
View from train Kerala
I hate it when the weather gets better *after* you are done with sightseeing -_-
Cochin airport solar powered
We passed by Cochin International Airport, which is famous for being the first airport in the world to be fully powered by solar. [NOTE: Cochin airport is nowhere near Ernakulam city; nearest train station is Angamali]

And with that, our tour was done. My mother wanted to visit Munnar for a long time so I was happy I was able to treat my parents to this vacation. It was mostly for them as the sights I saw weren’t new to me. Next, I will begin my Cambodia series.

[NOTE: All the above photos were taken mostly on my phone, OnePlus 5, and some on an old Canon 450D]

Previous posts in this series:

Munnar to Ernakulam by bus, Marine Drive and Lulu Mall

DTPC Munnar day tour: Top station, Flower Garden, Spice Garden – Part 2

DTPC Munnar day tour: Mattupetty dam, Echo point, Kundala dam – Part 1

Getting to Munnar – Train ride from Kannur and KSRTC bus from Aluva

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