Browse Category

Travel

Photos and stories from many of my travels in the past 5 years

Philippines 2011: Good Friday in San Fernando, San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites (crucifixion reenactment)

Date: 22nd April 2011

Good Friday — today was the big day. I promptly got up on time, had breakfast and was out of the hotel by 8am. I walked to the jeepney terminal and got into one that would first go to Dau and then to San Fernando. The ride to Dau took just 5 minutes, and from there, I was asked to get into another jeepney going to San Fernando city, the capital of Pampanga province.

The ride to San Fernando took around 30 minutes and cost ₱32 ($0.75/€0.52). As soon as I reached the San Fernando city center…

San Fernando good friday locals Pampanga
... the 'rituals' had begun
San Fernando Good Friday flagellate Philippines streets
Locals flagellating themselves are referred to as the 'mamalaspas' in Filipino

I didn’t know where the jeepney was headed or where it was going to finally stop, but I didn’t wait to find out. As the jeepney slowed down in traffic, I got down.

San Fernando Good Friday celebrations Pampanga
Despite the blood, this was an all family affair

WARNING: From here on, you are going to see a lot of photographs of people with bloodied-backs. The act of self-flagellation (usually whipping oneself or beating methodically) is a common practice in many religions. In the following context, the act is seen as means of repenting for one’s sins. You may think they are beating themselves to a bloodied state but in reality, they make small cuts on their backs with a blade. They then use those whips with wooden bristles at the end to whip themselves, quite gently ctually. The bristles get stained by blood and eventually spread out out the blood across their backs. But rarely is one profusely bleeding because of the cuts.

San Fernando Good Friday mamalaspas Pampanga

Metropolitan San Fernando cathedral dome Pampanga Philippines
Everybody was headed towards the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Fernando
Metropolitan cathedral of San Fernando  mamalaspas gathering pampanga
They all convene in front of the church. (By the way, it was scorching hot today!)
San Fernando cathedral wooden cross panorama
The flagellants stop in front of the cross, kneel before it or lay flat on the ground
San Fernando flagellation good Friday ritual Philippines
The act of flagellation here is out of devout worship, or so they claim
San Fernando mamalaspas flagellation Philippines
Despite the bloody appearance, they really don't hit themselves that hard

San Fernando mamalaspas woman flagellating Philippines

San Fernando mamalaspas on ground kicked Philippines
They are even lightly kicked

San Fernando mamalaspas on ground Philippines

San Fernando church flagellation good friday Pampanga
As one group of devotees would leave, more would come through the gates
San Fernando good friday mamusankrus cross bearers Philippines
Often led by cross-bearers, called 'mamusan krus'
San Fernando church flagellation good friday Philippines
I can't imagine how their bare backs must have felt in this heat

San Fernando mamalaspas on ground Pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando cathedral cross flagellation Philippines

Inside Metropolitan Cathedral San Fernando Pampanga Philippines
While devout Catholics bled outside, the more restraint were praying inside

Metropolitan Cathedral Good Friday San Fernando Pampanga San Fernando Good Friday penance kneeling before crossMetropolitan Cathedral San Fernando chariot Pampanga

San Fernando good friday penance tourist camera
This was a photography opportunity like no other
Metropolitan Cathedral San Fernando Pampanga photographer
There were many others just like me who came to capture today's peculiar festivities (Shot on the 450D*)
San Fernando good friday ceremony photographer Philippines
To us, this was more an 'interesting' event than a religious one

San Fernando good friday penance flat on groundSan Fernando good friday penance feet Philippines

Filipinos easter procession INRI cross
(Shot on 450D*)

San Fernando good friday cross bearers Pampanga Philippines

Heart shaped bloodied back Filipino good friday Philippines
Not sure the formation of a heart shape is intentional or not

San Fernando children watching Pampanga PhilippinesIt was so hot that I was done with the bottle of water I was carrying in a matter of minutes. There were hawkers and vendors selling ice cream, water bottles and chilled coconut water. I had one glass of that, and then another. Five minutes later, another glass. Dehydration was a major issue in this heat!

San Fernando good friday flagellated back Philippines

San Fernando good friday nuns hit with slippers Pampanga Philippines
These nuns were a lot less tepid with their act of penance

San Fernando good friday flagellation boy watching PhilippinesSan Fernando good friday flagellate cross Philippines

San Fernando good friday flagellation group Philippines
More and more flagellants just kept coming

San Fernando good friday penance praying before cross

San Fernando good friday praying man Philippines
Not sure if they were covering their faces more so that people will not know they took part in this act
Good Friday flagellated heartshaped back Philippines
Bloody, yes, but none of them were screaming in pain

San Fernando good friday flagellate flesh PhilippinesSan Fernando good friday ceremony Pampanga church
San Fernando good friday flagellate photo cameraGood Friday locals kneeling Pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando good friday flagellation kneeling before cross
San Fernando good friday flagellation kneeling towards cross
San Fernando good friday flagellation photography PhilippinesSan Fernando good friday praying before cross

San Fernando city Pampanga Philippines
After spending more than an hour at the cathedral, I felt it was time for me to move on

I drank another glass of coconut water, bought a bottle of water and left the cathedral.

San Fernando good friday celebration Pampanga Philippines

Pampanga lodge San Fernando Philippines
This was the only 'hotel' I could find in the area (Shot on 450D*)
Metropolitan Cathedral San Fernando Pampanga Philippines
It was right next to the cathedral

San Fernando city marshy stream Pampanga PhilippinesThe Manila Times old building San Fernando Pampanga

Taxis to barangay San Pedro Cutud Pampanga Philippines
There were taxis, both jeepneys and pedal taxis to take people to San Pedro Cutud, where the site of the crucifixion re-enactment would be taking place. I decided to take a cycle taxi.
Tricycle taxi San Pedro Cutud Pampanga Philippines
Shot the following using my Canon 450D*

Road to San Pedro Cutud San Fernando Pampanga

Flagellants San Pedro Cutud Pampanga Good Friday
Flagellants from barangays (villages) walking towards the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Fernando
Tricycle taxi to San Pedro Cutud Pampanga Philippines
It was a short ride that took around 5 minutes
San Pedro Cutud village alley Pampanga Philippines
The taxi driver dropped me here and told me I had go through this alley to get to the main road leading to the site
Road to San Pedro Cutud reenactment site Pampanga
This led to the site of the passion play

San Pedro Cutud village decoration good Friday Pampanga

Horse Good Friday reenactment Pampanga
Today's show would feature horses too I presume
San Pedro Cutud Filipino roman soldier Pampanga Philippines
"One photo? One bottle!"
Getting to San Pedro Cutud crucifixion grounds Pampanga
Took around 10 minutes of walking to get to the crucifixion grounds (Shot on 450D*)
San Pedro Cutud reenactment grounds Pampanga
The crowds weren't huge yet, which was good as I wanted to come early and find a good spot for myself

San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites firetrucks Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud passion play three crosses Philippines
The crosses for today's crucifixion
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion crosses Pampanga Philippines
Jesus, or rather the one who playing him today, gets nailed to the cross in the middle
San Pedro Cutud passion play media camera crew
I could see a media platform and I wondered if there was a chance for me to get on there with all the equipment I was carrying

I walked up to the media registration counter and told them I was from India and I run my own website. I was wearing my “It’s Football, Not Soccer” t-shirt and pointed to the back to show him my url (which was printed on the back). I also showed him the equipment I was carrying, and that was it — I got the pass to go on the media platform! 🙂

San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites media platform Pampanga
I came hoping to secure a good spot and I end up getting a great spot! (450D*)
San Pedro Cutud good friday view from media platform
The view from here was perfect!
San Pedro Cutud good friday flagellants whipped
Flagellants walk in this heat barefoot, and then get whipped? The torture!
San Pedro Cutud reenactment site crowds panorama
The locals unfortunately had to watch it from there (Panorama comprised of 8 shots)
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion ceremony media crane
To say this isn't a major media event here in the Philippines would be an understatement
San Pedro Cutud lenten rites GMA news crew
The GMA news crew
San Pedro Cutud good friday crucifixion professional photographers
There were photographers representing reputed press agencies like the Associated Press
San Pedro Cutud good Friday crucifixion tall camera tripod
They all had some serious gear

Not to feel left out, I set up my tripod, raised it to its highest and mounted the 70-200mm lens on my 7D. Trouble is, it was even more scorching hot here! My sunglasses and sunscreen weren’t enough for the burning heat. Many had umbrellas and I felt I should have carried mine as well. I hadn’t experienced such piercing heat since my years in Bahrain.

San Pedro Cutud good friday flagellant fainted Philippines
Some of the flagellants passed out in the heat and had to be taken away by medics in stretchers (450D*)
San Pedro Cutud good friday people under media platform
It was so hot, people took refuge under the stage. But not for long. Security came by and asked them to please come out. Probably because the authorities didn't want to be held responsible if the stage collapsed on them (450D*)

All of a sudden…

San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites tornado Philippines
... a mini-tornado formed and began swirling around in the grounds (450D*)
San Pedro Cutud tornado hawker stalls Pampanga
It eventually dispersed but not before taking out a stall's canopy (450D*)
San Pedro Cutud Lenten rites Filipino standing on log
Well, that's one way to get a better view 🙂 (450D*)
San Pedro cutud good Friday flagellants crucifixion crosses
Back on the hilly mound, the flagellants kept on coming (450D*)

I stood on the platform at around 11:30pm, and everyone here was getting restless in the heat, wondering when the ‘show’ would start. A lot of worshipers kept coming, but not ‘Jesus’.

San Pedro Cutud good friday crucifixion reenactment gown
Even this guy in a gown came
San Pedro Cutud Good Friday passion play man carrying white cross
This dude came carrying a white cross
San Pedro Cutud good friday man passed out
Unfortunately, he too passed out due to the heat
San Pedro Cutud lenten rites Filipino fainted
He also had to be taken on a stretcher
San Pedro Cutud lenten rites crowd tents
Where medics were on hand

Finally, just past 1:45pm…

San Pedro Cutud lenten rites crucifixion starting
The passion play was about to begin (450D*)

San Pedro Cutud passion play Chariot Philippines

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion passion play actors
Mother Mary and her entourage made their way

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion reenactment Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion Jesus Roman soldiers Pampanga
Jesus escorted by Roman soldiers for his impending crucifixion
San Pedro Cutud passion play Pampanga Philippines
The actors make their way to the crosses
San Pedro cutud crucifixion play jesus pushed around
The (Filipino) Roman soldiers push (Filipino) Jesus around
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play Jesus rolling ground
Jesus gets kicked to the ground

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play jesus on ground San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play Jesus roman soldier

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play Roman soldiers Jesus Philippines
Time for the crucifixion
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play laying Jesus on cross
They lower the cross
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play roman soldiers horse
Hey, that's the guy who asked for a bottle in exchange for a photograph from earlier 🙂
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion play actors Philippines
They deliver a few lines (Few of the actors like the woman playing Mother Mary had mics)
San Pedro Cutud lenten rites crucifixion reenactment raising cross Philippines
They raise two other penitents

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion actors passion play Pampanga Philippines

Good Friday Crucifixion reenactment cross Philippines
Though these guys weren't nailed to the cross
Good friday crucifixion Jesus cross Pampanga Philippines
Filipino Jesus getting ready
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion nailing Jesus on cross Pampanga
Checks the nails

Easter celebrations crucifixion reenactment Romans nailing Jesus hands Philippines

Crucifixion reenactment nailing Jesus hands on cross Philippines
There goes in the first one!
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion passion play nailing Jesus hand
And here comes the second one
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion nailing Jesus hands on cross
Filipino Jesus didn't have a mic on him, but you could still hear him scream from where I was standing (and some in the crowd jeered and laughed)
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion raising Jesus Philippines
"You raise me up...."

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion Jesus cross raised Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion jesus closeup Pampanga
In case you had any doubts on whether they actually did nail his palms
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion nailing jesus feet Pampanga
If you thought it was over, no. They nail his feet as well.
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion nails Jesus feet
Though I wondered if they just nailed in between his toes

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion spearing Jesus pampanga

San Pedro Cutud lenten rites crucifixion reenactment Philippines
Some more chants
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion ladder Jesus Pampanga Philippines
After a few minutes, they take out the nails

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion taking nails out of Jesus PhilippinesSan Pedro Cutud lenten rites removing Jesus nails PhilippinesSan Pedro Cutud crucifixion bringing Jesus down

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion over Jesus Philippines
The soldiers bring him down

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion ceremony romans carrying jesus Philippines

San Pedro Cutud lenten rites crucifixion Romans carrying Jesus
Wonder where they were taking 'Jesus'
Good Friday passion play Romans carrying Jesus to medics
Oh that's right, the hospital

At this point, few of the locals were cheering as ‘Jesus’ was taken away by medics. One could tell from the laughter that this passion play has become less of a religious event and more, comical of sorts.

Anyway, just when I thought it was all over, the announcement came on to inform us that there are going to be other penitents crucified on the cross. These people volunteer in the hope that, by doing so, they are forgiven for their sins.

San Pedro Cutud passion play bringing down crosses Pampanga
They bring down the other two volunteers
San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion volunteers Pampanga Philippines
The second batch of penitents took their places
San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion volunteer Pampanga Philippines
Here they go again

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion hammering nail Pampanga PhilippinesThere was chatter going around me saying these people who volunteer to be crucified are drunk, so they feel less pain.

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion penitent nailed Pampanga Philippines
Looking at some of their faces, who knows, could be true. Though it defeats the purpose if they volunteered to do this in a bid to quit their alcoholism in the first place!

San Pedro Cutud crucifixion raising cross Pampanga Philippines

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifying volunteer Pampanga
Now for the third penitent
San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion hammering nail photographer Pampanga
I don't know if that medic is capturing this in the name of science 🙂

San Pedro Cutud passion play raising penitents crosses Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud penitents crosses Pampanga Philippines
The put a lot of effort into this event, with the costumes of that era and all that
San Pedro Cutud good friday crucifixion plane flying above
Except for, you know, the occasional airplane flying above (450D*)
San Pedro Cutud plane flying blue sky cloud trail Philippines
Shot with the 70-200mm lens
San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion spearing heart Pampanga
Is there something symbolic of spearing one's heart (or torturing one's nipple?)
San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion guards penitent Pampanga Philippines
I left the media stage and move to the side of the grounds. Plus, the media platform became 'everybody's platform' after the villagers ran on-stage.

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion play actors Pampanga San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion crosses PampangaSan Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion play crosses Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion penitents Pampanga
There were more penitents in queue

By the point, the locals had infiltrated the grounds and were inching their way closer to the crosses to try and get a closer look.

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion locals running towards penitents Pampanga

San Pedro Cutud passion play crucifixion guards warning locals Pampanga
The 'Romans' tried to stop them
San Pedro Cutud good Friday crucifixion crowds near cross
But eventually...

I bumped into the American girl whom I had met on the journey from Baguio to Sagada two days ago. We chatted for a bit and when we saw the people thronging towards the cross, we both assumed the same thing: “Hey, when in Rome…”

Crucifixion reenactment locals crowded Pampanga Philippines
And so we both climbed up to get a closer look

Good Friday Pampanga nailed hand on cross Philippines

Crucifixion reenactment nailed hand on cross Pampanga Philippines
What I really wanted to know is why there isn't any blood and was the nail going all the way through his hand. Gory thoughts, I know, but I was still curious.
Crucifixion reenactment nailed feet on cross Pampanga Philippines
I tried to get a closer look but there were so many people in my way
San Pedro Cutud crucifixion nail in leg Pampanga Philippines
So I held out my cell phone and took a snap. This is what I captured. So I guess they really do nail their legs.

Since the hustle and bustle was getting a bit too much, I just used my phone to record this video as they were about to take the nails out of the penitents:

As you can tell from the above video, the locals found all this just as amusing as I did. (Just so you know, I don’t find blood and gore ‘amusing’ — it was this whole act and how the crowds were reacting to it that I found amusing).

Good Friday Pampanga nailed hand cross from behind
(Taken on the Nokia E72)

In fact this event shouldn’t be taken seriously. These crucifixions aren’t even organized by the church. In fact, the Catholic Church condone it and do not endorse them in anyway.

It was a local theatrical troupe in the 1950s that first reenacted the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. It became popular enough to become an annual event. Word spread across the Philippines, and later, the world. It became a media event, and an interesting one, for photographers both amateur and professionals alike.

San Pedro Cutud good friday passion play crucifixion nailed to cross
Safe to assume these guys take this act very seriously?
San Pedro Cutud good friday passion play nailed to cross
Anyway, I had seen enough. It was time for me to leave

Good Friday Pampanga nailed to cross Philippines

Crowds thronging crucifixion site good friday Pampanga
Hawkers were making hay while the heat took its toll on me. All I had the past 3 hours were lots of water and ice cream. I couldn't wait to get back to the city and eat something heavy. (Nokia e72)

Looking around you can see why the City of San Fernando continues to host this event. San Pedro Cutud is an impoverished village with little else to offer tourists (same can be said about San Fernando city too). So Good Friday seems to be the only day in their calendar where locals earn good income selling everything from drinks to food. There are thousands who visit San Fernando just for this.

Flagellating penitents good friday San Pedro Cutud Pampanga
Walking back, the flagellants were still at it
Flagellation locals good friday San Pedro Cutud Pampanga
This was at 3:30pm

Good Friday San Pedro Cutud Pampanga flagellating

San Pedro Cutud road Good Friday traffic Pampanga Philippines
The road was jammed, and I had to squeeze through people, cycles, and cars just to get ahead
San Pedro Cutud barangay hall Pampanga DC logo
DC Comics says Congressman Dong Gonzalves is no hero (You may not get the reference if you don't read comics or recognize that logo)

I managed to get a bicycle taxi further up the road, and I asked him to take me back to the cathedral in San Fernando city.

Metropolitan Cathedral of San Fernando panorama
It was nearing 4pm
McDonald's Jollibee restaurants San Fernando Pampanga Philippines
As always, there's was a McDs and a Jollibee right next to each other. I chose to go to McDonald's.

The McDonald’s was full of tourists who had just come back from San Pedro Cutud as well. Freshened up, sat in the air conditioning and enjoyed my meal. After the meal, I sat a few minutes longer and reviewed my photographs. Needless to say, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. I came, I saw, I captured.

But the day wasn’t over yet. Though many were making the long journey back to Manila, I stayed back in San Fernando because I had only planned on leaving after I photographed the procession at night.

Penitents walking to cathedral San Fernando
I walked back to the cathedral

San Fernando Cathedral priest sermon good friday PampangaWooden float carrozas San Fernando Cathedral

San Fernando good friday jesus float Pampanga
There were many floats (or 'carrozas') that were going to be used in tonight's procession
Fernando III statue church Pampanga Philippines
The man whom this city is named after

Good Friday holding crosses San Fernando Pampanga Good Friday man holding cross San Fernando PampangaGood Friday man carrying cross San Fernando PampangaI just stood outside, hoping the sun would set early and the procession would start some time soon. It was just 5pm, so I knew I had quite a bit of waiting to do.

San Fernando street children smiling Philippines
Boy: "Hey!" (grabs sister)... "take photo mister" ~ Me: *clicks* ~ Boy: "Oh, he's actually taking a photo?" (shy)
San Fernando local boys Pampanga Philippines
After that, these guys asked for photos. I had to click. And no, I'm not going to put them *all* up. Don't know why they ask for photographs but never ask for a copy. Probably think I'm a newspaper photographer.
No to RH bill banner San Fernando church Pampanga
I noticed these 'No to RH bill' banners on many of the churches here and I had to ask my friend Aimee what the bill was. Turns out it is a Reproductive Health Bill proposed by the Government to control population growth by encouraging the use of contraceptives -- but the church is against it! It was just one of many things I would later learn about the thin line separating church and state in Philippines.
Inside Metropolitan Cathedral San Fernando Pampanga
I thought of sitting inside the cathedral for some time
Good Friday procession float San Fernando Philippines
But instead, I went for a stroll
Good friday procession float San Fernando cathedral Philippines
The carrozas were lining up

Agony in the garden corazza San Fernando Pampanga PhilippinesGood friday float San Fernando pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando city stores closed good friday PampangaSan Fernando meat market Pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando market evening Pampanga Philippines

San Fernando drunk local Pampanga Philippines
He's high
Good Friday San Fernando old man Pampanga
There were more carrozas brought in from other areas

Good Friday candles for sale San Fernando Pampanga

San Fernando good friday procession Pampanga
Looks like the procession was about to begin

City of San Fernando seal on wall Pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando market good Friday crowd Pampanga

American Pie 15 dvd cover Philippines
Really, they made 13 shitty sequels?

San Fernando public basketball court PampangaI walked back to the cathedral and saw people walking as the procession had begun. I asked a police officer as to where they were headed and he told me they would be going around and coming back to the cathedral by sunset. I only wanted to take photos of the procession once it had gotten dark, so I sat inside the cathedral until the sun had completely set.

Metropolitan Cathedral of San Fernando hall Pampanga PhilippinesSitting inside the cathedral under the fans made me feel sleepy. I guess all that scorching heat and the early morning wake up was getting to me.

Metropolitan Cathedral of San Fernando dome Philippines
The dome

After half an hour, I looked outside and by 6:30pm, the sun had set. So I left the cathedral.

San Fernando chariot horse Pampanga Philippines

Chicken grilled street food San Fernando Pampanga
There's a lot of grilled chicken on the streets of Philippines
San Fernando Elementary school road evening Pampanga
I waited for the procession to make its way down this road

Good Friday evening procession Pampanga Philippines Good Friday procession San Fernando Pampanga Philippines

Catholic figurine carrozas Good Friday procession Philippines
The carrozas were lit up, which made them even more beautiful

Beautiful carrozas good friday procession San Fernando Pampanga Philippines Carrozas good friday procession San Fernando Pampanga PhilippinesBoat carroza good friday procession PhilippinesJesus carrozas good friday procession PhilippinesGood Friday carrozas march Pampanga Philippines

Good Friday night procession Pampanga Philippines
Definitely more than a thousand people were taking part in this procession

Santa Maria Veronica carrozas Pampanga Philippines Good friday carroza night procession San Fernando Pampanga PhilippinesSanto Entierro carroza good friday march san fernando Pampanga PhilippinesCatholic figure carrozas good friday procession PhilippinesCatholic carrozas good friday march San Fernando Pampanga PhilippinesGood Friday carrozas Pampanga PhilippinesGood friday carrozas procession San Fernando Pampanga PhilippinesSaint Maria carrozas Good Friday procession PhilippinesSan Juan Evangalista carroza friday procession Pampanga Philippines
San Juan Evangalista carrozas friday procession Pampanga PhilippinesSan Fernando good friday night procession PampangaGood friday procession woman holding candle San Fernando

San Fernando good friday procession night Pampanga
I took one final parting shot as the procession group continued its way into the city

And with that, I was done! Phew, what a day!

I walked by myself down the quiet road and tried to catch a jeepney going to Angeles City.

Iglesia ni Christo church San Fernando Pampanga Philippines
It was 7:15pm when I clicked this photo

I had to wait around 15 minutes until I finally managed to get a jeepney going to Angeles City.

Angeles City jeepney at night
It took nearly half and hour with all the stops until I finally got to Angeles City

But the driver eventually asked me, where exactly I wanted to go because he was nearing his final stop.

Angeles City pampanga Philippines at night
I didn't quite recognize any of the surroundings, so I told the driver I needed to go near SM Clark. He said, for that I'd have to hop onto another jeepney passing by Balibago

Which is what I did. Then when I got asked to get down from the second jeepney, I saw SM Clark, but it was still a bit far. So I hopped into another jeepney going up Perimeter Road and got down at the jeepney terminal.

Three jeepneys and ₱50 later, I was back in familiar territory. Even though I wanted to go back to my room and take a bath, I decided to have dinner now itself since I was out anyway. Plus, I was desperately craving some chilled beer!

Despite being Good Friday, some of the nightclubs and casinos were open. I took a stroll down Walking Street and finally ended up sitting at club called Angel Witch, only because it sounded badass and they were playing rock music. They had a few girls dancing to Bon jovi’s “It’s My Life,” but 15 minutes later and a beer down, I was bored and soon left.

I stopped by the Turkish restaurant on the way back, packed a meal and walked back to my room. I got out of my blood-stained clothes (you can’t help it, droplets of blood will splatter on you if you are close to the flagellants) and enjoyed a good, clean shower.

As I copied my photos over to my back-up hard drive, I couldn’t be more happier with my coverage of this, erm, interesting event. The above are just 220 of the 793 photos(yup!) I shot using my three devices: my Canon 7D (mostly), the Canon 450D* and my cellphone.

With the main event of this trip in the bag, I felt this visit to Philippines was well worth my money and time. And to think, I still had more than a week left and a lot more to see in this country!

*Regarding the photos taken using the Canon 450D. I mounted my wide angle lens on the 450D so that I could use the other lenses on my 7D. But I noticed just about every image I shot on the 450 was very blue. I only realized this after I had taken a few shots and I could figure out why the photos came out that way. The tungsten filter wasn’t enable and the white balance was et to auto. I couldn’t afford to restore the camera to factory setting in case it formatted the SD card in the process.

I did try and correct the blueish hue in every image, but only some I could turn from this:

Canon 450 d blueish tungsten look…. into this:

San Pedro Cutud village alley Pampanga Philippines

The rest had too much blue in them.

 

Previous posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Leaving Sagada for Baguio, and arriving in Angeles city (Days 4 & 5)

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Sagada’s Lumiang burial cave, Sumaguing cave, Hanging Coffins of Echo valley

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Banaue town; heading to Sagada via Bontoc

Philippines 2011: Day 2 – Banaue rice terraces; trekking to Batad village

Philippines 2011: Day 1 — Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, Fort Bonifacio

Philippines 2011: Flying over South China Sea for the first time

Other posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Day 7 – Leaving Angeles City for Manila, Mall of Asia

Philippines 2011: Day 8 – Manila tour: Rizal Park, Intramuros, Manila Cathedral, China Town

Philippines 2011: Day 9 – Cebu: Fort San Pedro, Basilica of Santo Niño, Taoist Temple

Philippines 2011: Day 10 – Bohol tour: Chocolate Hills, Loboc river cruise, Tarsiers, churches

Philippines 2011: Day 11 – Arriving in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 12 – Puerto Princesa Underground River tour, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 13 – Puerto Princesa to El Nido by bus

Philippines 2011: Day 14 – El Nido island hopping tour A and sunset at Las Cabanas beach, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Back to Manila, shopping, and my final thoughts about the country  (Last post)

Philippines 2011: Leaving Sagada for Baguio, and arriving in Angeles city

Date: 20th April 2011

I got up at 5:30am, and had to freshen up using water from the hot shower as the tap water was freezing cold!

Sagada village road early morning
I checked out of George's Guesthouse (by leaving the key on the table because there was nobody at the reception) and walked out
Yoghurt house Sagada Philippines
Where I had dinner from yesterday
Sagada village early morning buses
A few inter-city buses were parked at the village center
Alfredo's Inn, Sagada Guesthouse, Gandu Yan Inn
Alfredo's Inn (L), Sagada Guesthouse (2nd from right), Gandu Yan Inn (R) -- plenty of accommodation near the bus station (Panorama shot comprised of 4 photos)
Inside Sagada first bus to Baguio early morning
I boarded the first bus to Baguio leaving at 7am (ticket cost ₱200/$5/€3.5)
Sagada to Baguio misty morning forest trees
The bus left on time. Since I was still sleepy, I decided to keep shooting using my phone as I was in no mood to take my DSLR out.
Sagada village man sitting early morning
Good morning to you too
Sagada to Baguio misty hill
Very misty at this time

Sagada to Baguio rice terrace taken on Nokia E72 Sagada to Baguio hill bus ride

Sagada to Bagiuo bus journey view
This was the last photo I took before I fell asleep

But I ended up waking up just half-an-hour later when I briefly opened my eyes. I just had to take my camera out now and take a few shots of the terrain I was passing through.

Rice terrace hills Ifugao Luzon Philippines
I didn't dare open the window as it was freezing cold outside, so I shot all these behind the not-so-clean glass
Ifugao rocky river luzon Philippines
Mostly rocky rivers in these parts
Sabangan town bridge Ifugao Philippines
We arrived at some town/village

Sabangan village river paddy fields

Welcome to Sambangan Ifugao Philippines
Where we were
Sabangan rice terraces Ifugao province Philippines
There was more beauty to behold

Ifugao valley river PhilippinesRice terraces valley Ifugao luzon PhilippinesBeautiful rice terrace green hills Ifugao Philippines

Sagada to Baguio hills highway Ifugao
We kept going higher and higher

Sagada to Baguio bus journey Ifugao hillsSagada to Baguio hilly village clouds PhilippinesRice terrace plateau Ifugao clouds PhilippinesRice terrace paddy field Ifugao province PhilippinesSagada to Baguio bus journey brickhouseSagada to Baguio white clouds PhilippinesSagada to Baguio Gawis Ay mountain province PhilippinesSagada to Baguio Halsema highway bendSagada to Baguio Halsema Highway rideSagada to Baguio Halsema highway lettuce farming

Sagada to Baguio Halsema Highway lettuce farms
Lettuce farms
Sagada to Baguio Gawis Ay Hawkers on highway stop
From a market we stopped at
Sagada to Baguio inside the bus
A lot of the passengers were villagers or farmers getting down at various markets to sell their produce

Sagada to Baguio fbcfiSagada to Baguio misty rain clouds
Sagada to Baguio Halsema highway shanty village
Sagada to Baguio grey skies village PhilippinesSagada to Baguio green hills PhilippinesMountain province highway Mary statueSagada to Baguio Halsema highway viewsMountain province rice terrace hill PhilippinesMountain province rice terraces farms

Mountain province rain clouds Philippines
The stretches of sunshine didn't last too long

Mountain province village patch Philippines Mountain province farming grey clouds Philippines

Mountain province morning star stop Philippines
We stopped here for a few minutes for a snack/toilet break

Mountain province highway cordillera Philippines

Mountain province morning star bus stop Philippines Mountain province villager PhilippinesMountain province dark clouds PhilippinesMountain province dark clouds village kids PhilippinesDriving through mountain province PhilippinesMountain province cordillera PhilippinesMountain province sole person grey clouds PhilippinesConcrete roads to Baguio city

Lagoon near Baguio hills
The dark clouds gave way to sunlight

Mountain province cordillera landslide hill Philippines

Road works mountain province Philippines
There weren't many bad stretches on this highway, for the most part, it was a lovely journey!
Baguio city shanty homes Philippines
And after nearly six hours, we were in Baguio

Life changing church Baguio Philippines Arriving in Baguio flyoverI arrived at Baguio just past 1pm. Where the bus stopped was at some lot inside a shopping complex. Didn’t look like a main bus station or anything, so I asked around how I could get to Angeles City.  The locals told me I would have to go to another bus depot near SM Supermall and catch a bus from there. So, in a taxi I went.

Riding through Baguio, you could see why Baguio is a predominantly a  ‘university town’. Students from all across the North come to Baguio for higher education as it’s the only developed city in this hilly region of North Philippines.

I never had any plans of staying in Baguio because I didn’t find any of the attractions worthy of spending a night here. A short 5 minute ride later (which cost less than ₱100), I was at the bus terminal very near to SM Supermall — the only major mall in the city.

I asked for buses going to Angeles City and was instructed to board any of the buses going to Dau. I bought my ticket (₱290/$6/€4.7) from one of the private bus companies that operates the route and dumped my backpack on my seat. I had a few minutes before the bus departed so I quickly stepped out and went to the nearby Jollibee to pick up some lunch (Jollibee is there wherever you need it!)

Bus terminal Baguio city Philippines
The bus terminal was very busy as this being a hugely student populated town (and Holy Week), many of the buses to the various neighbouring provinces were running full

The bus left at 2pm and I had my lunch watching a very charitable man give away gifts and cash to Filipinos on TV. As the TV signal strength weakened, they put on the usual pirated copies of low-budget action films (first, an unheard of horror movie starring a really fat Val Kilmer).

I didn’t take many photographs on this leg of the journey — mostly because there wasn’t a whole lot of scenery worth capturing. It rained a little bit and the bus moved slowly because from here on, we were going downhill and it was quite misty outside.

After a few hours, it got really cold inside the bus as the air-conditioning was truly working. I had to wear my jacket and use my camera bag for additional warmth.

Villasis town hall Philippines
Taken at 4:51pm. We mostly travelled through impoverished towns and small villages.

You know it’s an impoverished part of the country when you see the locals rejoicing with banners when one of their residents become a lawyer. Saw a few of those.

Familyradio.com rapture judgement day billboard ad carmen Philippines
Hey guess what nut jobs, the world didn't end after all!

Soon after one B-grade movie ended, they put on another. This time a Tagalog dub of a Thai action movie  starring a popular Thai actress whom I cannot name at all because I only remember seeing the ‘making of’ this film on a show on NHK. Sigh.

I kept wondering how much longer I had to sit in this bus. By sunset, the bus had stopped in the city of Tarlac — and it stayed there for some time. And by now, there weren’t many passengers in the bus. I stepped down to ask if this was where I need to get down but the driver who was taking a break said “no”. I went back in and waited for the bus to move again.

And move on it did. We were on McArthur Highway by nightfall and I again wondered just how much longer I had to go to get to Angeles City.

Around 7:30pm, we finally reached a very busy Dau bus terminal. From there, I got into a trike and asked him to take me to my hotel. The journey took another 10 minutes (he charged ₱110) but I finally got to Red Tulip Hotel. I chose this hotel because I didn’t want a place on Fields Avenue, near all the nightclubs that go late into the night, and Red Tulip Hotel looked like it was a safe distance away. But that was as per the map on their website. In reality, it was a little too far from the main jeepney hub. But more on that later.

Red Tulip hotel single room Angeles City Philippines
I was just glad to see a room so I could dump my bags and stretch my legs!

I had spent more than 12 hours today just sitting in buses. I was tired, so I quickly stepped out to have dinner at 9pm and then went to sleep immediately after getting back. For the first time this week, I didn’t have to wake up early tomorrow!

Day 5 – 21st April 2011

I don’t know how many hours I slept, but I slept well. Lord knows I needed the rest after the last three days! I switched on the television and watched the news reports of how crowded EDSA was yesterday night, with everyone rushing to get out of Manila. In some ways, I guess it was a good idea to arrive a bit early.

By the time I got out of bed, freshened up and made my way down for breakfastbrunch, it was noon.

Red Tulip hotel restaurant Angeles City Philippines
Looking at the menu, the tulips made sense... the hotel owner was Dutch

I ate lazily, chatted with the waitresses who asked me where I was from and where all I had been to in Philippines so far. Then I went online for a bit after brunch and only at around 2pm did I finally decide to step out of the hotel! I wanted to take it easy for once.

Red Tulip hotel Angeles City Philippines
The entrance
Angeles City sandy road Philippines
It was a sandy road from The Red Tulip Hotel to the San Angelo street (where the Hotel 24 sign is)
Angeles City perimeter road Albacio restaurant Philippines
The walk from San Angelos St. to the main Fields Avenue road was around a 1 minute long
ABC Hotel Angeles City Philippines
Angeles Beach Club hotel, one of the more posher hotels in Angeles City
Balibago jeepney terminal Angeles city
This was the jeepney terminal...
Hotel Tiger Angeles City Philppines
And I initially looked at hotels on this road, San Narciso street. Hotel Tiger looked atrocious both inside and outside...
PJ Inn hotel Angeles City Philippines
... so PJ Inn was the one I had selected. But they were late to reply back with my room enquiry and by the time they did, they were full. So I had to book at Red Tulip Hotel for 3 nights (they gave it to me for ₱800/$18/€13 per night)
San Narciso street jeepney Angeles City Philippines
The jeepney terminal was up this road, a 2 minute walk from here. I figured, after I was done with the festivities of Good Friday in San Fernando, I could easily catch a ride from here back to Manila.
Angeles City perimeter road traffic Philippines
I walked back to the main road
Angeles City Istanbul doner kebab house Philippines
I had dinner from this Turkish restaurant yesterday night, good shawarmas!
Angeles city Balibago terminal Philippines
I decided to hop over to SM Clark mall to pass some time
Angeles city road to Clark afternoon Philippines
This road leads to the Clark Freeport zone and Clark airport
Angeles City Clark freeport zone Philippines
My friend Aimee told me AOL once had an office in the Freeport zone
Angeles City Clark road closed Philippines
The plan was to first check out SM Clark and then head to the Freeport zone for all the duty free shops
Angeles City SM Clark mall Philippines
But as I walked towards the mall...
SM Clark mall Angeles City panorama
Closed! (Panorama shot comprised of 5 shots)

A security guard came up to me as I took the above photograph, and he told me the mall was closed today and tomorrow, being Good Friday. I asked him how far the Clark Duty Free was from here and he said around 8kms and he told me there’s a high possibility that would be closed today as well.

I sighed and walked towards the jeepney drivers nearby and asked them if the Clark Duty Free was open today but they confirmed it saying it was a holiday today.

Angeles City Balibago jeepney terminal Philippines
Oh well

Angeles City puppies for sale Philippines

Angeles City jeepney terminal Philippines
So I walked to the jeepney terminal to find out where to board the jeepneys going to San Fernando and the timings
Angeles City Dau pickup-point to go to San Fernando
This guy told me to come to this pick-up point tomorrow morning to go to San Fernando. Yes, he was quite joyful to be in the photograph.
Angeles City perimeter road Philippines
Decided to check out Fields Avenue
Angeles City walking street girls Philippines
I was stopped by another one of those "Hey foreign guy with DSLR, take photo of us!". Guess which was the girl who requested it.
Angeles City walking street Philippines
This was Walking Street (don't know why they call it such but still allow vehicles in!)
Angeles City closed shops afternoon Philippines
Here too, the scene wasn't any different -- just about everything was closed!

But I wondered if it was just because it was in the afternoon.

As I reviewed my shots, I noticed they were all quite dark and that I couldn’t change my shutter speed now. It was stuck at 1/1250! Grrh, I hate it when things like this happen, and that too just before a big event like tomorrow’s crucifixion ceremony! I had no choice but to continue shooting with it.

Angeles City locksmith near public park
I went to that locksmith who was fortunately open. He tightened one of my tripod legs with an Allen key as I had misplaced mine. He wouldn't accept the ₱10 I was ready to pay him either 🙂

Angeles City traffic Philippines

Blue Nile Double A poker club walking street Angeles City
I walked back on to Walking Street. Only a few places were open and had the usual sight of geriatrics drinking away with their Filipina companions
Angeles City Cambodia nightclub Philippines
Pretty cool entrance

I walked back to my side of town and felt the urge to have some ice cream.

Don Juico avenue Angeles City afternoon

Iglesia ni christo church Angeles City Philippines
Iglesia ni Cristo church

Bought my ice cream from a convenience store at a Petron station on this side of Perimeter road, which houses a few more nightclubs, and little else.

Once back in my room, I fiddled with my camera for nearly an hour, switching it on and off, taking the battery out multiple times. Fed up, I went online to find a solution. Saw a few threads on such issues and then felt like an idiot after reading the ‘solution’. I had accidentally pressed the ‘Lock’ button near the dial which stuck the shutter speed at the last setting.

-_-

Anyway. After ‘fixing’ my problem, I sat in the room and worked on a few photos to upload and stepped out only for dinner. I went back to the Turkish restaurant as I miss Middle Eastern food and I wanted to make the most of the authentic food available as much as possible. (The restaurant was run by Turks)

At night, there were a lot more people out and about, but it still didn’t look like this is the most action Angeles City usually sees. So yeah, if you are coming to Angeles City purely for the nightlife, Holy Week isn’t the best time for that 🙂 Some of the nightclubs were still closed.

Back in the room, I packed my camera bags, kept all my batteries for charging, cleaned my lenses, set my alarm, and went to bed. Tomorrow was going to be the big day, and I couldn’t wait for it to begin!

Previous posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Sagada’s Lumiang burial cave, Sumaguing cave, Hanging Coffins of Echo valley

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Banaue town; heading to Sagada via Bontoc

Philippines 2011: Day 2 – Banaue rice terraces; trekking to Batad village

Philippines 2011: Day 1 — Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, Fort Bonifacio

Philippines 2011: Flying over South China Sea for the first time

Other posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Day 6 – Good Friday in San Fernando, San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites

Philippines 2011: Day 7 – Leaving Angeles City for Manila, Mall of Asia

Philippines 2011: Day 8 – Manila tour: Rizal Park, Intramuros, Manila Cathedral, China Town

Philippines 2011: Day 9 – Cebu: Fort San Pedro, Basilica of Santo Niño, Taoist Temple

Philippines 2011: Day 10 – Bohol tour: Chocolate Hills, Loboc river cruise, Tarsiers, churches

Philippines 2011: Day 11 – Arriving in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 12 – Puerto Princesa Underground River tour, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 13 – Puerto Princesa to El Nido by bus

Philippines 2011: Day 14 – El Nido island hopping tour A and sunset at Las Cabanas beach, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Back to Manila, shopping, and my final thoughts about the country  (Last post)

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Sagada’s Lumiang burial cave, Sumaguing cave, Hanging Coffins of Echo valley

Date: 19th April 2011

The whole of today morning was spent in a jeepney – first from Banaue to Bontoc, and then again from Bontoc to Sagada. After checking-in to George’s Guesthouse, I went downstairs for lunch.

Sagada chicken curry rice San Mig beer lunch
The George's Guesthouse restaurant had Filipino curry and it was the first time I saw curry in a menu here. I had to try it! It was quite spicy, mostly because of the pepper. Not bad.

I sat at the table and had a slow lunch (even though I couldn’t honestly afford to). My plan was to try and see if I could finish seeing Sagada’s famous caves and hanging coffins by end of day. Both attractions were among the “must see” sights for me on this Philippines trip.

Today was a Tuesday and I had to be in Angeles City at the most by Thursday, because on Friday, I needed to be in San Fernando town for the Good Friday activities. Trouble is, I was really worried about the Holy Week national holidays and all the talk of everything shutting down as Good Friday neared. So I wondered if I could finish seeing everything by today evening and then leave for Angeles City tomorrow itself, just to be safe.

Sagada village downhill road kids on kart
At 2:30pm, I decided not to waste anymore time and decided to begin my tour
Sagada kids playing on kart
The perks of living in a hilly village
Sagada Guides Aassociation office philippines
I went to the guides' office because I read that you are not allowed inside the caves without a guide!

Inside the office, I speak to the guides and I tell them what all I want to see first. They told me the caves are doable but I may not be able to see the hanging coffins by sunset — nor the church (which wasn’t high up on my list of things-to-see anyway). I told them I needed to be in Angeles City by Thursday and the guides informed me I first would have to go to Baguio city and catch another bus from there to Angeles City.  It was going to take an entire day, and if I had to see the church or the hanging coffins, I would have to do it before the last bus to Baguio leaves in the afternoon.

I thought to myself about the journey to Angeles City and realized I would be cutting it a little too thin if I left Sagada in the afternoon (and I may have to spend the night in Baguio if I miss the last bus from there to Angeles City!)

So I decided not to waste any more time ‘thinking,’ hired a guide and told them I’ll try to see everything I wanted to see today itself. The other guides were pessimistic, but I was quite adamant.

Sagada curve road
The guide and I walked down the road towards the caves
Limestone rocks hill Sagada Philippines
Jason, my guide, pointed to these limestone rocks and asked me if I could spot the hanging coffins
Sagada hanging coffins limestone rocks
There they were. (By the way, these are not the main hanging coffins site)

Jeepney locals Sagada road

Way to Sumaging cave Sagada village

Sagada village concrete road
I was impressed by how clean and neat Sagada village was
Way to Sumaging Lumiang caves Sagada Philippines
After 10 minutes of walking, Jason asked me to wait here while he went inside the store to get his lamp

Sagada old beetle car

Sagada trail to Lumiang cave trees
Jason led me up the path to Lumiang burial cave
Sagada way to Lumiang cave guide
It was a short walk

Sagada limestone hill near Lumiang caveSteps to Lumiang cave Sagada Philippines

Going down to Lumiang cave Sagada
We slowly climbed down
Lumiang cave ancient burial coffins Sagada
Lumiang burial cave
Lumiang cave guide tour Sagada Philippines
...and this is what it's famous for
Lumiang burial cave wooden old coffins Sagada
Hundreds of coffins which have been placed here for more than 300 years, the last one being in 1986
Lumiang burial cave pine coffins Sagada Philippines
The coffins are made of pine wood and have stood the test of time quite well
Lumiang caves Sagada panorama
(Panorama comprised of 8 shots)

For more on the Lumiang burial cave, check out this video.

Steps up Lumiang cave guide Sagada
We climbed back up
Trek to Lumiang caves Sagada
Walked back out to the main road
Sagada village coffins near Lumiang
Jason pointed out to me coffins buried below here as well (bottom right)

I sat a few minutes for a breather. As it turned out, my body hadn’t fully recovered from its abused state from yesterday.

Road to Sumaguing cave Sagada Philippines
But I couldn't afford to sit around for too long, as I was the one who told the guide I wanted to see as much as possible by sunset
Sagada rice terraces hills Philippines
It only looked like the views were going to get better on this tour
Sagada trek road to Sumaguing cave
Walking these neatly paved roads, all I could think of was: "Wow, a village here has such nice roads where as many Indian cities don't even have them!"

Tall trees Sagada Philippines Trekking trail to Sumaguing cave Sagada

Sagada rice terraces trees
Looked beautiful even through these trees
Sagada rice terrace farm Philippines
Wow
Sagada rice terrace farm green fields Philippines
Even their rice terraces are prim and proper
Sagada rice terrace Panorama
Panorama comprised of 8 shots

Sagada steel house Sagada road to Sumaguing cave treesSagada rice terrace farm green hillAnother 10 minute walk later, we reached the entrance to Sumaguing cave.

Entrance steps to Sumaguing cave Sagada

Steps down to Sumaguing cave children
Down we went again
Sumaguing cave entrance panorama
This was the big one (Panorama comprised of 3 shots)
Stepping down into Sumaguing cave Sagada
First step: Take a lot of steps down

Inside Sumaguing cave stalactites limestone rock

Preparing to enter Sumaguing cave with guide Sagada
Second step: Wait for guide to light the lantern
Sumaguing cave guide lighting gas lamp
Waiting
Sumaguing cave guide lighting kerosine lamp
Okay, I guess we're ready
Going inside Sumaguing cave guide with light
Final step: Descend into the darkness
Inside sumaguing cave rocks guide holding light
I used the lantern as the point for the camera's auto-focus to lock on to
Inside Sumaguing cave guiding light
Jason told me from here on, it's best that I walk barefoot -- and be prepared to get all dirty
Inside Sumaguing cave guide holding lantern light
Visitors are advised to walk barefoot because the grip is better
Inside sumaguing cave bat shit covered rocks
As for the getting dirty bit, the rocks at first are all covered in bat droppings (a.k.a bat shit)
Inside sumaguing cave slippery limestone Stalactite rock
The bat shit-covered rocks eventually give way to the smooth limestone rocks
Inside Sumaguing cave going down
We kept descending further
Inside Sumaguing cave slippery limestone rock
The rock surface is super-smooth... and wet, with water dripping from above
Inside Sumaguing cave dinosaur foot rock water
Jason would stop at places to show me unique formations inside the cave. Guess what this looks like?
Inside Sumaguing cave dinosaur foot imprint
And it's highly unlikely that a T-Rex dinosaur took a stroll through these caves
Inside Sumaguing cave darkness tourists
We still had more darkness to cover

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rocks water

Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks flash photograph
One of the few photographs taken using flash. Most of the photographs I took using the tripod and on long exposures -- and some even hand-held. (Most were shot at f4-4.5 and exposure ranging from 1/10 to 1 second)
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks guide smoking
Jason helped carry my tripod so my hands were free to climb down (the camera was on the neck strap)
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks water pool
Be prepared to get wet too
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks shadows
It was quite chilly inside and you could see vapour every time you breath out or speak. Even the rocks were cold and walking on them felt really soothing.
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock pond
I got this blur-free shot after six attempts
Inside Sumaguing cave clear mineral water
Even the chilly waters felt therapeutic, don't know if it was the minerals or not
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock formations Mithun
This is for those asking why there isn't one single photo of me in these posts
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks with flash and without
Here's an example showing you how the caves look with flash and without. See how the characteristics of the cave differs?
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock formations panorama
A formation that resembles molar teeth (Panorama comprised of 4 shots)

Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock teeth formation

Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rocks guides lights
Yes, there was more going down to do

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock craters

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock other tourists
There were few other tourists/visitors inside the caves as well, mostly Filipinos
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock Sagada tourists
The guides all knew each other
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock Sagada Philippines
Another shot which took up to five attempts to get right

Inside sumaguing cave limestone cave rock

Inside Sumaguing cave visitors swimming water pool
You reach all the way down when you get to this pool of water, in which you can swim if you wish. Given how cold the water was (and given the lighting conditions), I chose not to.
Inside Sumaguing cave limestone rock water panorama
It was time to head back (Panorama comprised of 2 shots)

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock massInside sumaguing cave limestone rocks smooth surface

Inside Sumaguing cave limestone sharp tooth stalactite rocks pointed
One of the most photographed rocks from inside Sumaguing cave
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rocks foggy air
The moisture in the air when you breath out inside this chilly environment. Amazing thing is, despite the chill factor, you don't shiver one bit!
Inside sumaguing cave guide sitting limestone rock
Jason, my guide, isn't much of a 'smile' person

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock teeth jaw shape

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock jacuzzi
There was water inside this, making it a jacuzzi of sorts (minus the bubbles)
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock filipinos
The obligatory "Hey foreign guy with DSLR, take photo of us" shot
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock gap
Tried a shot without flash on long exposure before this, but all I got were the people in the back
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock Mithun climbing up
That's the only way to go back up

Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock flash photo

Inside sumaguing cave limestone family kids
It must be a challenge to visit this cave with family

Inside sumaguing cave limestone cave familyInside sumaguing cave limestone rocks in water

Inside sumaguing cave limestone visitors heading back
Jason suggested we wait for other groups to go first
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock people going back out
It was our turn now
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock shape
I can't remember what this rock shape resembled but Jason did say it looked like something (a hippo?)
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock guides lanterns
The stars align
Inside sumaguing cave limestone rock guides Sagada
Oh look, Jason is smiling
Sumaguing cave darkness Sagada Philippines
Back up to bat shit territory
Sumaguing cave bats Sagada Philippines
I know using flash would be wrong (and Jason reminded me not to do so) so I tried my best to try and capture the bat clusters using long exposure. I wasn't in a position where I could set up the tripod well.

Inside Sumaguing cave going back Sagada Philippines

Sumaguing bat cave Sagada Philippines
Another attempt to capture the bats (ignore the large shadow, that's me). The bats weren't flying about inside. Maybe they were camera shy.
Walking out of Sumaguing cave opening
And then there was light...
Steps leading up Sumaguing cave Sagada
We had spent nearly 2 hours doing the Sumaguing cave part of the tour
Steps out of Sumaguing cave Sagada Philippines
But the reason why it takes that much time is because you have to tread very carefully! This is why they insist you hire a guide, because they know the caves and the trail to follow.
Steps up from Sumaguing cave Sagada
I had never been inside a cave like this before so this was quite an amazing experience!
Sagada Cave Man Inn Philippines
This is an Inn just outside the caves (thus the clever name)
Sagada rice terrace surrounding hills
Shot this at 5pm
Sagada trekking trail evening sun Philippines
Sagada is a truly beautiful place to visit
Sagada trees Philippines
These trees are everywhere here in Sagada (Are they a type of pine trees?)
Sagada trek road trees evening
I can highly recommend Sagada as a pleasant trekking destination
Sagada rice terraces green trees
Had to stop and get one final look of the rice terraces as we walked past it again
Sagada rice terrace farms evening sky Philippines
Really beautiful

Sagada evening dog on road

Sagada Blackberry lane Philippines
Pff, so outdated
Sagada evening grey skies Philippines
As we walked back to town, I asked Jason if there was anyway we could go to Echo valley and see the hanging coffins today itself as I didn't feel like staying back another day just to see them -- and I REALLY wanted to see them!
Sagada concrete road house Philippines
Jason, took a pause and said: "Sure". I told him I wouldn't mind walking a bit faster, and then he told me there was a shortcut we could take.
Sagada shortcut to Echo valley
So I followed my guide, through small alleyways and past village houses

Sagada house near limestone rocks Sagada steps to open groundsSagada grounds evening PhilippinesSagada playground children playingSagada open grounds PhilippinesSagada path to echo valley church

Sagada church forest Philippines
This is the famous church. You normally come here through another path from the village center.
Path to Echo valley Sagada Philippines
We were near
Steps to Church cemetery Sagada
Sigh, I officially hate climbing now
Sagada church cemetery burial ground Philippines
This is Sagada's main cemetery, where they bury people nowadays

Trek to Echo valley Sagada Philippines Way to Echo valley Sagada village

Sagada echo valley Philippines
After 15 minutes of 'speed walking,' we were in Echo Valley

Echo valley earned its name for obvious reasons. You could see visitors shouting to hear their echoes in return. Though, I’m not sure the dead who were laid to rest here really wanted to hear “I love Justin Bieber” and the equally famous “Justin Bieber sucks”. I’m not kidding, Filipino kids were having a blast shouting it out.

See, even the dead aren’t spared from the Bieber.

Sagada Echo valley hanging coffins limestone rocks
Jason pointed to the coffins... and if you can't spot them...

(takes out the 70-200mm zoom lens…)

Sagada hanging coffins Echo valley zoomed in
There!
Sagada hanging coffins echo valley
The lens was at 200mm
Sagada limestone rocks hills coffins
There were a few older coffins a bit further away

Even after witnessing the hanging coffins from up here, I still felt ‘incomplete’. I knew I would feel like this unless I went all the way to the coffins and took photos from up close, because that’s how I saw them online. And I wanted that.

I asked Jason if we could get a lot closer. He sighed and asked me if I was willing to climb down (he knew I was a bit tired). I told him that I had come this far already, no point in coming back tomorrow just to go up close to the coffins.

And down we went, to get a closer look at the coffins. Took just 5 minutes.

Sagada hanging coffins echo valley Philippines from down
Eerie as it may sound, I felt much better coming down here
Echo valley hanging coffins closeup Sagada
Even though this is originally a centuries-old Chinese tradition, it isn't practiced anymore. Despite that, the brown coffin was the most recent addition as the person insisted on being laid to rest here, along with her ancestors.
Sagada hanging coffins tradition Echo valley Philippines
The rest are decades old, some even centuries old
Sagada hanging coffins cliffside echo valley Philippines
Because it was getting dark, I set the camera on the tripod and shot these at f4, 1/2 second exposure to absorb as much light as possible
Shaky cam falling down photograph
And this is what happened when the camera nearly fell to the ground after I clicked
Sagada hanging coffins hillside Echo valley Philippines
If you are tall enough, you could touch the lowest hanging coffin (but that would just be disrespectful)
Sagada hanging coffins Echo valley Philippines
It was nearing 6:30pm, so we had to head back before it got too dark
Sagada hanging coffins Echo valley night shot flash
Took this using flash so that you get an idea of just how dark it really was

The climb back up was tough for me, simply because there were no proper steps. I found myself panting for breath, but in some ways, I now felt ‘complete’. I had accomplished everything I wanted to see in Sagada.

We walked back, a bit slower this time…

Sagada village homes at night dark
... and this is how dark it got by the time we were out of the woods

When we got back to the main road, Jason said he would be heading straight home from there. So I paid him the ₱700 ($16/€11) guide fee, plus a ₱100 tip, and thanked him — for putting up with me and my demandsrequest to see everything I wanted by the end of daylight.

Sagada wooden house at night lap post
Took this photo from where we got down to the main road
Sagada Goerge's Guesthouse at night
This is George's Guesthouse... at 7pm

Back in the room, I rested my feet briefly, took a hot shower to cleanse myself of all the bat shit, and then stepped out again for dinner, because Sagada (like Banaue) has a 9pm curfew.

I had read a lot of good recommendations for a place called the Yoghurt House, so I went there for dinner just as it was winding down for the night.

Yoghurt house apple ham sandwich Sagada Philippines
I had the apple ham sandwich...
Yoghurt house banana yogurt Sagada Philippines
... and the banana yoghurt with granola topping. It was alright. Cost a total of ₱180 ($4/€3).

On the way back, stepped into a souvenir store, bought a neat-looking ‘I Survived Sagada’ t-shirt (₱180) and some biscuits to have tomorrow morning as I was going to be waking up really early to catch the first bus to Baguio city.

Back at George’s Guesthouse, even though the doors were shut, men were drinking and having a jolly time proving that despite the 9pm curfew, the night doesn’t end early for the locals. I copied over today’s photos from the camera to my laptop and made the most of the wi-fi to make bookings for the coming days.

Today was yet another stupendous and memorable day for me. Like yesterday, despite how tired I was trying to see as much as possible, I felt glad at end having accomplished everything I came to experience. Sure, Sagada has some famous waterfalls too, but the trek to the waterfalls was surely not possible today and I had no regrets about missing it either. The main attractions on my Sagada checklist were Sumaguing cave and the Hanging Coffins of Echo valley. And I couldn’t be more pleased with the photographs I took of both the places.

Sagada makes for a perfect weekend getaway for Manila’s residents but even as a foreign tourist, I would still recommend one make the effort to come all the way here.

I was tired, sure, but with nothing else to do in Sagada’s chilly nights, I cuddled up and went to sleep satisfied. Only  dreaming this trip would keep getting better.

Previous posts:

Philippines 2011: Day 3 – Banaue town; heading to Sagada via Bontoc

Philippines 2011: Day 2 – Banaue rice terraces; trekking to Batad village

Philippines 2011: Day 1 — Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, Fort Bonifacio

Philippines 2011: Flying over South China Sea for the first time

Other posts in this series:

Philippines 2011: Leaving Sagada for Baguio, and arriving in Angeles city (Days 4 & 5)

Philippines 2011: Day 6 – Good Friday in San Fernando, San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites

Philippines 2011: Day 7 – Leaving Angeles City for Manila, Mall of Asia

Philippines 2011: Day 8 – Manila tour: Rizal Park, Intramuros, Manila Cathedral, China Town

Philippines 2011: Day 9 – Cebu: Fort San Pedro, Basilica of Santo Niño, Taoist Temple

Philippines 2011: Day 10 – Bohol tour: Chocolate Hills, Loboc river cruise, Tarsiers, churches

Philippines 2011: Day 11 – Arriving in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 12 – Puerto Princesa Underground River tour, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Day 13 – Puerto Princesa to El Nido by bus

Philippines 2011: Day 14 – El Nido island hopping tour A and sunset at Las Cabanas beach, Palawan

Philippines 2011: Back to Manila, shopping, and my final thoughts about the country  (Last post)

Related Posts with Thumbnails