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Yi Peng Chiang Mai big lanterns buddhists

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Loi Krathong celebrations; first Grand Parade

Date:  21st November 2010

After the unfortunate turn of events for me yesterday, I woke up today feeling a bit warmer inside. Not in a good way, more like having-a-body-temperature kind of way!

I woke up for a late breakfast, which I had at Rux Thai itself, and then went back to the room… to sulk. Hoping things would get better, health-wise and otherwise.

By the time I told myself there was no use sulking all day, I stepped out… at 6pm.

Loikroh road Yi Peng deserted look Chiang Mai
Lo Kroh looked deserted
Loi Kroh road bars Yi Peng decorations Chiang Mai
Many of the bars and restaurants were decorated in celebration of Yi Peng festival

I walked towards Thapae Gate to see if there was anything going on.

Thapae gate canal parking Chiang mai Thailand
Didn’t seem like much

Chiang Mai Thapae gate stalls Yi Peng 2010

Thapai gate food shawarma stall lady
Guess that takes care of dinner for tonight
Mr Salmon sushi street food Chiang Mai Thailand
Cheap sushi

Chiang Mai Thapae gate street food Loy Krathong 2010I walked a bit further, and things had started to ‘brighten’ up.

Chiang Mai Thapae gate Loy Krathong decoration
This wasn’t the only decoration Thapae gate got

Thapae Gate colorful lanterns display Chiang Mai Yi Peng

Thapae gate colourful lanterns display Yi Peng festival
Pretty

Thapae Gate yellow lanterns display Loi Krathong Chiang MaiChiang Mai Thapae gate Loy Krathong lantern decorationsChiang Mai Thapae colourful lanterns Loi Krathong celebrationsChiang Mai Thapae traditional lanterns Yi Peng festivalChiang Mai Thapae blue lanterns Yi Peng celebrationsChiang Mai Thapae green lanterns Yi Peng celebrationsChiang Mai Thapae red lanterns Yi Peng celebrationsThe one downside (sometimes) of carrying around a pro-looking camera is people assume you know how to take really good photographs and will do a better job than they can. I have often been asked to take photos of strangers using their point-and-shoot cameras and today was no exception.

Chiang Mai Thapae lanterns celebrations Mithun Divakaran
After being asked by some Taiwanese woman to take a few photos of her, I asked her to return the favour
Loy Krathong beauty contest stage Thapae gate Chiang Mai Thailand
They had a stage set up for some function
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong crowds Ratchadamnoen road
I crossed the road and walked to the other side, hoping to explore more
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong street shops lamps
Plenty of stalls set up everywhere
Chiang Mai Ratchadamnoen road crowd Loi Krathong
This is Ratchadamnoen road
Wat temple entrance Chiang Mai Loy Krathong
I entered this place out of curiosity
Baked chicken Thai herbs vendor Chiang Mai
Okay fine, it was the food!
Wat temple Chiang Mai Anthony Bourdain Yi Peng
Hey, it’s Anthony Bourdain!?*
Chiang Mai Wat Yi Peng street food eating outside
You can never go hungry in Thailand
Barbecued meat street food Chiang Mai Thailand
Unless you are strictly vegetarian
Wat Chiang Mai worship praying Thailand
Even though this was a temple…
Thai banana leaf omlette grilled Chiang Mai vendor
… it essentially got turned into a ‘food court’

Once outside, I asked Tourist Police officer (an American woman) whether there was anything special planned for today. She told me yesterday was the big release of the lanterns in Mae Jo, today there wouldn’t be anything special and tomorrow would be the concluding Grand Parade.

She didn’t come of as confident and ‘in-the-know’. Something I was used to by now.

Chiang Mai Wat Ratchadamnoen road

Chiang Mai Loi Krathong crowds Ratchadamnoen road
Still, I walked on

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong Ratchadamnoen road alley paintings for sale Thailand

Wat Phan entrance Chiang Mai Thailand
Steeped into another temple on Ratchadamnoen road
Wat Phan prayer hall Chiang Mai Thailand
Though I forgot to note down the name of the temple
Wat Phan shopping Chiang Mai Thailand
More stalls inside here as well
Wat Phan tourists eating Chiang Mai Thailand
Lots of eating here too

Wat Phan visitors eating Chiang Mai Thailand

Wat Phan god statues Chiang Mai Thailand

Wat Phan golden stupa Chiang Mai Thailand

Wat Phan huge gong Chiang Mai Thailand
I was sooo tempted to bang it

Wat Phan prayer Chiang Mai ThailandWat Phan buddha prayer Chiang Mai Thailand

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong parade start Ratchadamnoen road
I got back out to Ratchadamnoen road
Chiangmai Loy Krathong parade Ratchadamnoen road
Then I saw this…

Chiang Mai Loi Krathong parade Ratchadamnoen road

Chiang Mai Yi Peng parade start Ratchadamnoen road
… and it looked like a parade…
Loi Krathong Saturday parade Chiang Mai men
…which looked quite, grand

Yi Peng float grand parade Chiang Mai ThailandLoi Krathong saturday parade Chiang Mai ThailandLoi Krathong parade Thai girl Chiang MaiChiangmai Yi Peng parade float Ratchadamnoen roadLoy Krathong grand parade Thai float Chiang MaiChiang Mai Loi Kathrong parade Thai traditional dressed girlsChiang Mai Yi Peng parade mast Ratchadamnoen roadLoy Krathong Grand parade province girls Chiang Mai ThailandChiang Mai old building Ratchadamnoen roadHere’s part one of the videos I took of the parade:

Loy Krathong grand parade farm float- Chiang Mai Thailand
I take it the floats were showcasing Thailand’s culture from across all provinces
Loy Krathong grand parade college Chiang Mai Thailand
And I also take it these participating groups were colleges, schools, and other establishments

Loy Krathong grand parade nursing college Chiang Mai Thailand

Loi Krathong grand parade traditional girls Chiang Mai ThailandLoy Krathong grand parade fat boy Chiang Mai Thailand

Chiang Mai light man weird street artist Thailand
This guy wasn’t part of the parade… but was getting a lot of attention anyway

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong parade young girls Thailand

Here’s part two video of the parade:

Chiang Mai Loy krathong grand parade flash girl umbrella ThailandChiang Mai Loy Krathong grand locals float ThailandCollege students parade Loy Krathong Chiang Mai ThailandLoy Krathong grand parade students men Chiang Mai ThailandChiang Mai Loy Krathong boys parade ThailandChiang Mai Loy Krathong grand parade princess float ThailandChiang Mai Loy Krathong rotating lanterns parade Thailand
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong alley to temple

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong Wat alley lanterns Thais
Walked this alley out of curiosity

More celebrations awaited me inside.

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong Wat firecracker fountain ThaisChiang Mai Loi Krathong temple lantern touristsChiang Mai Loi Krathong Wat Tung Yu tourists

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong fireworks night sky
Lanterns from below joining the fireworks in the sky
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Wat Tung Yu priest lighting lantern
Now it were the monks who wanted to light a big one
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong temple huge paper lantern
A really big one
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Wat Tung Yu lighting big paper lantern
You obviously cannot use matchsticks to light a lantern this big
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Wat Tung Yu lighting paper lantern waiting
Wait for it to heat up inside
Yi Peng Chiang Mai big lanterns buddhists
Wait for it…
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong buddhist priests releasing paper lantern
Okay, everybody’s waiting… just let go of it already!
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Wat Tung Yu paper lantern with firecrackers
And it’s up
Chiang Mai Wat Tung Yu people leaving
I left
Chiang Mai full moon night sky lanterns
Near Rux Thai, this was the sight
Chiang Mai Thapae gate crowds gathered
Walked back to Thapae Gate

Chiang Mai Thapae river canal Loi Krathong

Chiang Mai Thapae gate Loi Krathong beauty contest
There was a beauty contest going on
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong beauty contest audience
Packed audience too
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong beauty contest
Switched to the 70-200mm lens for a closer look
Chiang Mai Thapae gate photographers 70-200 canon lens
I wasn’t the only one
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest
A rather ‘traditional’ looking beauty contest

Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest contestant

Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest judges Thailand
The judges-slash-sponsors
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest women
Just before the winner is announced, the women get the ‘God-I-hope-that-b***h-doesn’t-win!’-look
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest award
The winner
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest prize Thailand
She gets a placard…
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest winner
…which says something in Thai
Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contes Wai Wai runnerup
The runner-ups get a month’s supply of instant noodles*

Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest stage light

Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong stage show dance Thapae gate

Chiang Mai Thapae gate Yi Peng celebrations lanterns
Lanterns were still floating up

Chiang Mai Miss Loy Krathong beauty contest audience

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong Thapae stage lantern
The stage cleared. I didn’t wait to see what was next.
Thapae road bars Yi Peng bursting crackers
I walked on down to Thapae Road next

Thapae road Inter bar Yi Peng bursting crackersAs I walked along, I saw a large crowd gather around someone.

Chiang Mai amazing street footballer Thailand
Everybody was watching this guy
Chiang Mai street footballer Thailand
He was mighty impressive

So I decided to take a video:

I tipped him 10 baht and continued down the road.

Chiang Mai street guitarist Thailand
There were a few other street performers as well
Wat Buppharam Chiang Mai Yi Peng fireworks
Lots of fireworks today… which is always nice
Wat Buppharam Chiang Mai Indian emblem four lions
Hey, those lion statues resemble the official emblem of India!

Curious as to what the possible ‘Indian connection’ could be, I went inside Wat Buppharam.

Wat Buppharam Chiang Mai Buddha statue worship
Looked like just another Buddhist temple to me

Wat Buppharam Chiang Mai dragon head stoneWat Buppharam Chiang Mai dragon statueWat Buppharam Chiang Mai elephant statueWat Buppharam Chiang Mai temple at night cloudsWat Buppharam man statueWat Buppharam Chiang Mai temple at night Yi PengI got back out to Thapae Road and made my way towards Nawarat bridge.

Thapae road camera man Loi Krathong
Lots of media

Thapae road Wat temple entrance

Thapae gate grand parade float lights
The parade was still on

Ta Pae road grand parade float Thai guy

Tapae road to Nawarat bridge Yi Peng crowds
It was crowded!
Chiang Mai Yi Peng rock concert
They had a stage set up… sadly for the band, very few were watching
Chiang Mai condom safe sex aids awareness Thailand
Volunteers in condom costumes distributed free condoms and promoted AIDS awareness
Chiang Mai Nawarat bridge Yi Peng crowded
The people on Nawarat bridge
Mae ping river Loy Krathong devotees
Many devotees releasing krathongs into Ping river
Mae ping river Loi Krathong river thieves
And if you’re wondering what those people in the waters are doing, they’re ‘stealing’

Stealing what? Money. When the locals pray and release the krathongs, they often place some money as an offering to the river goddess. These shameless people then wait for the krathongs to float their way and then take the money. CNNGo has a good article on these ‘river bandits’.

Chiang Mai Nawarat bridge Yi Peng khomloys city
It’s hard to capture what I saw with my eyes no matter how much I tried

It’s not  just the hundreds of paper lanterns in the sky in front of me. There were hundreds more to my left, right, behind me… everywhere! I kept wondering “How does one truly capture the experience in one frame!”

Chiang Mai nawarat bridge Yi Peng khomloy Thais

Chiang Mai bridge light bulbs
I moved to another bridge

Chiang Mai Maeping river celebrations firework

Praisanee road grand parade Loy Krathong
The parade was at the end of its run
Krathongs for sale Maeping river Chiang Mai
Krathongs and khomloys (paper lanterns) for sale
Chiang Mai steps to Maeping river
I walked down these steps
Rim Ping hotel Loy Krathong firework
Plenty of fireworks soon went off near Rim Ping Hotel

Rim Ping hotel Chiang Mai Loy Krathong fireworkRim Ping hotel Loy Krathong white firework

Rim Ping hotel Loy Krathong Chiang Mai firework
Kinda looks like the Death Star doesn’t it? 🙂

Rim Ping hotel Loy Krathong green fireworkMae Ping river Loi Krathong shooting fireworksMae Ping river Loy Krathong devotees stepsMae Ping river Loi Krathong elephant floatMae ping river Loy Krathong floatMae Ping river bridge light reflections water Loi KrathongChiang Mai Maeping river Yi Peng releasing krathongsChiang Mai Maeping river krathongs light reflectionsMae ping river bank Loykrathong devotees steps

Ping river Loykrathong devotees Chiang Mai
Ping river was packed with devotees
Chiang Mai Maeping river big floats
And a few big floats

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong lightbulbs khomloyChiang Mai Loy Krathong lightbulbs bridge revelers

Praisanee road roundabout Chiang Mai
I walked towards the Chiang Mai Municipality building
Chiang Mai municipal hall Yi Peng function
Cultural shows were going on
Chiang Mai Thai woman makeup geisha
One of the performers; dressed very geisha-like
Chiang Mai US embassy wall paintings
These paintings were on the walls of the US Consulate
Chiang Mai Thai cream pancake street vendor
I was starting to get hungry at this point
Chiang Mai flower shop display
Lots of flowers today as well
Chiang Mai roses red flowers wrapped newspaper
Not sure if these were roses
Praisanee road Chiang Mai Chinese temple
Some temple near the market
Praisanee road Loy Krathong locals celebrating
It was nearing midnight, time to head back to the room
Loy Krathong Loy Kroh road at night
Celebrations on Loy Kroh road were timid at best
Indian kitchen Pakistani food Chiang Mai Thailand
As seen at a small Indian eatery near Rux Thai

As I sat on my bed before going to sleep, I reviewed the snaps I had taken today. After yesterday’s disappointment, and how I felt when I woke up today, my mood was definitely more upbeat after I saw my photos.

Hope it gets better tomorrow!

 

* No, not really


Next posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Zoo (Day 4, Part 1)

Thailand 2010: Last day of Loi Krathong; Sunday Grand Parade (Day 4, Part 2)

Thailand 2010: Heading to Chiang Rai by bus, Wat Jedyod and Golden Clock Tower

Thailand 2010: Golden Triangle in Mae Sai; Chiang Rai’s White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

Thailand 2010: Pattaya — Beach road, Viewpoint, Jomtien Beach, Walking Street

Thailand 2010: Back to Bangkok — Chinatown, Patpong, Platinum Mall and Chatuchak Market

Thailand 2010: Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha, Sampeng Market, JJ market (again)

Thailand 2010: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market tour, Cobra show… and leaving Bangkok

Previous posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai cooking class; Loi Krathong celebrations in Mae Jo, Sansai

Thailand 2010: First day in Chiang Mai for Loi Krathong; driving up Doi Suthep

Thailand 2010: Arriving in Bangkok and preparing for Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai

Thai farm cooking class meal Chiang Mai

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai cooking class; Loi Krathong celebrations in Mae Jo, Sansai

Date: 20th November 2010

At 9am, I got picked up by a songthaew from The Chiang Mai Thai Farm Cooking School, the cooking class I had signed up for.

Chiang Mai songthaew river viewI chose Thai Farm Cooking Class as supposed to the few that were in walking distance from Rux Thai because after viewing their website, it was the setting that convinced me to go far just to learn how to cook Thai curry.

Chiang Mai songthaew ride
My group consisted of a British couple, an American woman, a bunch of French women, a young German girl and one Indian guy (guess who)

The farm was out of Chiang Mai city but after picking up all the guests, our first stop was at a market.

Chiang Mai Nattaya Phothaphun Thai Farm cooking class guide
Nattaya, our cooking instructor and guide around the market

The market stop was to familiarize us with ingredients commonly used in Thai cooking — which to a South Indian wasn’t unheard of.

Chiang Mai market cooking class guide rice varieties
Nattaya explaining us the varieties of rice
Chiang Mai market Thai green red curry paste
Ready-made green and red paste, used in the curries

Chiang Mai market ingredients

Chiang Mai market cooking oil coconut milk

After Nattaya ran us through the basics, she gave us around 10 minutes to look around the market.

Chiang Mai market meat stallsChiang Mai market fried chicken fishChiang Mai market Thai sausages

Chiang Mai sweet dumplings
Sweet dumplings
Chiang Mai market fresh food
How they are made
Chiang Mai meat market plastic bag fans
I was amused by the fans they used — plastic bags with meat & bones in them as the fan blades
Chiang Mai fish market seafood
Despite being in land-locked North Thailand, you still get good seafood in Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai market pink eggs
Upon web research, these pink eggs are preserved eggs apparently

Chiang Mai chicken market plastic bag fansWe re-grouped and left for the cooling class farm.

Getting to Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai
The journey takes around 45 minutes from Chiang Mai city

Once at the farm, we were given a brief tour of the surroundings.

Thai farm cooking class lotus plants Chiang Mai

Thai Farm cooking class Chiang Mai group
Two group classes are taken every day (while the cat, just sleeps)
Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai setup
Nattaya setting up our ‘kitchen’
Thai Farm Cooking class Nattaya how to wash rice
Nattaya first explained to us how to wash rice
Thai Farm Cooking class Nattaya washing rice
She was washing the rice in the steam basket itself

Thai farm cooking class rice in washing basket

Thai Farm Cooking class making rice
Steam cooking the rice

While the sticky rice cooked, Nattaya guided us out to the farm they have in the compound, in which they grow a lot of the ingredients we use in the cooking classes.

Thai Farm Cooking class garden Chiang Mai Thailand

Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai plant
Sorry, don’t remember what this plant was but all I remember is that it’s an important ingredient in Thai cooking
Thai farm cooking class table Chiang Mai Thailand
We all get individual tables of course
Thai Farm Cooking class Mithun Divakaran
…and aprons (Photo taken by the German girl next to me)

Prior to even arriving at the farm, you are given a checklist of 5 dishes you want to learn how to cook. For eg; you have the option to choose to make either Thai green curry or red curry or yellow curry. Similar options for a soup, side dish, spring rolls and dessert. The choices include vegetarian and non-vegetarian (usually chicken or shrimp).

Thai Farm cooking class getting started
All ready to chop up and mash
Thai Farm cooking class grinding stone
The old Thai lady wasn’t too impressed by the old French lady’s mashing skills, so she showed her how to pound a grinding stone the right way!
Thai Farm cooking class chicken green curry ingredients
First up for me, Thai green curry (chicken)

I followed Nattaya’s instructions and 25 minutes later…

Thai farm cooking class chicken green curry Chiang Mai
It wasn’t bad I say 😉
Thai farm cooking class Tom Yam soup ingredients
Next, Tom Yam soup (I chose to use tofu)

After that, I made stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts (Gai Phad Met Mamuang Him Mapaan). And once that was done, it was lunch time!

Thai farm cooking class meal Chiang Mai
Yeah, we had to eat all that we cooked

But as we all gathered around our table, we passed around each of our dishes, so everybody could try out the different dishes one learned to make at Thai Farm Cooking Class. After lunch, we chatted about our respective travels within Thailand and elsewhere. I asked some of them if they had plans to see the mass-release of the khom loys or paper lanterns at Mae Jo. Most of them didn’t know what I was talking about, which was surprising, as I assumed the event was a major draw in Chiang Mai, and everyone knew about it.

I wanted further information about the event and specifically, when exactly it was. And since finding English-speaking Thais is a bit of rarity, I approached Nattaya and asked her if she knew about the events at Mae Jo. She told me she wasn’t sure about when it was but did let me know that she would ask our driver, as he’s better informed about these things.

We still had two more dishes to cook up but Nattaya told us we could take a nap or walk around the property if wanted to. I chose to walk.

Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai Thailand hut

Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai panorama
Panorama comprised of 10 shots

Thai farm Chiang Mai Thailand wooden worshipThai farm cooking class compound Chiang Mai lotus pondThai farm cooking class Chiang Mai lotus pondThai Farm cooking class Chiang Mai roadThai farm cooking class Chiang Mai open field flowersThai farm cooking class Chiang Mai lotus big leaf

Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai lazy sleepy cat
As if they weren’t lazy enough… a cat in a cooking class!

After a half-an-hour long break, Nattaya called us back in.

Thai farm cooking class bananas coconut milk
We cooked dessert. I made Kluai Bod Chii (Banana in coconut milk)

The desserts were fairly simple and easy, and quite similar to the ‘payasams’ we make in South India — so nothing unique in taste for me.

Thai farm cooking class spring rolls ingredients
Last up, spring rolls
Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai rice paper
The big difference between the spring rolls commonly available in India and the ones I made was the use of rice paper

Any Far-East Asian reading this will be like: “Of course it’s rice paper!” but here in India, a lot of the Chinese food isn’t the least bit authentic. So instead of rice paper, a lot of them use wrappings made of wheat or maize dough. The crispness you get from using rice paper makes it taste all the better!

With each of our 5 dishes done, we sat around our table one last time for evening tea and had a bit of what we had cooked last. I say a ‘bit’ because most of us were full from our lunch not too long ago, and so we packed up our dishes for later consumption.

Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai washing area
We were done with all our cooking by 3pm
Thai farm cooking class Chiang Mai cat sleeping rocks
Sigh, what a life

As it neared 4pm, we left the farm and made our way back to Chiang Mai. Nattaya told the driver to stop on the way and show me where the Mae Jo celebrations would be, because apparently it was close by from here.

Chiang Mai Sansai field village houseChiang Mai outskirts Sansai houseChiang Mai sansai field ThailandChiang Mai road sansaiChiang Mai canal roadChiang Mai roadside river streamChiang Mai road outskirtsFifteen minutes later, we reach a junction and Nattaya along with the driver got down to show me where the Mae Jo celebrations will be held tonight!

Chiang Mai Thu Dongkasa Than Lanna

Way to Mae Jo university grounds
That’s where I needed to go

I asked the driver what time the event would be and he told me it would be around 7pm onwards.

Chiang Mai highway 1001 Thailand
The main highway leading into Chiang Mai city

I got dropped back at Rux Thai at around 5pm. I had the bike I rented yesterday returned to the travel agent. I contemplated keeping it for one more day so that I could ride to Mae Jo on it but considering the distance, I didn’t want to risk losing my way in the dark.

I freshened up, re-packed my bag with all my camera equipment and quickly made my way out again. This was the main event, what I came for! I wasn’t going to miss it!

I hired a tuk tuk who offered to wait there at Mae Jo and then drop me back, all for 500 baht.

Chiang Mai highway to Mae Jo traffic
As it neared 6pm, traffic was slowly starting to pile up

Chiang Mai highway to Maejo traffic jam

Chiang Mai highway to Maejo cars
It seemed as though everybody was on their way to Mae Jo

Chiang Mai Thai triple scooter way to MaejoGoing to Mae jo Loi Krathong girls

Traffic jam Maejo Loi Krathong Yi Peng festival tourists
The road leading up the ground was jammed
Traffic jam Maejo Loi Krathong Yi Peng festival
Took over half an hour to get to the end of this stretch

By the time I did reach the parking area, I got down and stored the driver’s number. He told me he would find a spot to park and asked to call just as I’m on my way back out.

Maejo sausage stand Sansai grounds
It didn’t look like a major site where thousands had gathered to release lanterns
Maejo Sansai way to Yee Peng celebrations ground
It was pitch dark with no street lights
Thai crowd walking to Maejo grounds
But I just followed the crowd assuming everybody was heading to the same place
Mae Jo lanterns in sky crowd
It looked like I had a bit to walk
Maejo Khom Loy for sale
The crowds slowly started to grow
Mae Jo Sansai boys Khomloy lanterns Loi Krathong
From here on, people were lighting lanterns everywhere
Maejo Sansai krathongs for sale
Krathrongs for sale
Maejo sansai Loi Krathong grounds parking
Lots of vehicles parked on the other side
Maejo Sansai pork sausages vendor
Lots of pork sausages on sale too!
Loi Krathong Maejo grounds Khomloys crowd
I stopped when a saw a large gathering of people (mostly tourists) lighting the lanterns
Maejo sansai Loi Krathong khomloys
‘Khom Loy’ is what these paper lanterns are called in Thai
Maejo panda khomloy lantern Yi Peng Thailand
You get fairly cute varieties of lanterns too
Maejo house roof fire khomloy burning
Unfortunately, what goes up, eventually comes burning down
Mae jo roof on fire lantern
And if you have a house near these grounds, you probably dread this festival every year
Maejo sansai tourists lanterns vendors
I moved along further down the road in search of the temple grounds
Maejo Yi Peng lanterns tree
Some will get stuck on a tree
Chiang Mai Mae Jo Loi Krathong Khomloys
The tourist crowds just kept getting bigger
Sansai Maejo Yi Peng khomloy lantern full moon night
It was a perfect full moon night in Chiang Mai
Lantern firecrackers Maejo Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Thailand
Some people attach firecrackers to the lanterns
Steamed rice cakes momos Maejo Chiang Mai
If I wasn’t distracted by the lanterns in the sky, I would be with all the food on the ground

Boiled meat vendor Maejo Loi krathong

Maejo Loi Krathong crowds towards grounds
I kept moving forward

Maejo Yi Peng tourists lighting lanterns Loi krathong

Maejo Yi Peng burning lanterns khomloys sky
An attempt by a group of tourists to attach and send many up at the same time… not always successful 🙂
Maejo Loi Krathong crowds Thais burnt khomloy
This one didn’t even make it off the ground

Maejo Chiang Mai crowd lanterns Loy Krathong

Maejo lantern stuck tree Chiang Mai Loy Krathong
If it isn’t trees…
Lantern stuck electric line post Maejo Loi krathong
…it’s an electric line
Maejo Chiang Mai crowds celebrating Loi Krathong
Switched to the 70-200 lens for a bit
Lighter lantern wick Khomloy Loi Krathong
The clarity you get out of this lens is simply amazing

Lanterns khomloy night sky Loi Krathong maejo Chiang Mai Thailand

Donuts baked sweets vendor Maejo Thailand
Yum

Soon after I took this photo, and just I was starting to move further, I  heard a large crowd cheer in the distance. Everybody looks up…

…thousands of lanterns in the sky!

They released it!!

I couldn’t believe it, I missed it!

I start to run, but so do the others… all of us eventually stalling at a point where there were just too many people. I knew I had to capture something, so I quickly swapped my 70-200 for the wide angle lens!

Thousand lanterns khomloy at MaeJo Chiang Mai
Waited months for this moment… and I couldn’t be there early enough 🙁
Maejo lanterns Loi Krathong Chiang Mai
I couldn’t shoot in auto-focus, so I shot in manual — in such a rushed state of mind
Maejo Khomloys tree leaves shadow
In the few seconds I had before the lanterns were out of sight, I tried clicking as many as I could

I forced my way through the crowds, through the sides, apologizing and excusing myself along the way.

Maejo full moon Khomloy lanterns stuck in treeI was desperate to get in to the main grounds no matter what, hoping there would be another launch soon after.

Loy Krathong Yi Peng Khom Loy lanterns
“Jellyfish in the sky”
Maejo grounds big lantern Yi Peng celebrations Chiang Mai
I finally managed to get into the site of the launch
Mae Jo Yi Peng lantern release celebrations
But it was a lost cause. It was over.

I was gutted!

Maejo grounds Loi krathong buddhist stageSansai Chiang Mai Loi Krathong lanterns in skyMaejo grounds Loi Krathong budda statueLoi Krathiong Maejo grounds smiling ThaiSo as the many inside stood smiling, content with what they were a part of, I stood there glum. Disappointed and upset. The frustrating part was that I was so close! Had I walked 5 minutes earlier, I could have made it to the main grounds just in time for the big release.

Maejo sansai trees lanterns in distanceBut it was all over. Everybody was on their way out, and there wasn’t anything else for me to do besides join them.

Maejo grounds trees people leaving Yi Peng
Maejo ground lake Loy Krathong night

Maejo grounds people leaving Yi Peng sansai river stream
But getting all the way back was going to take some time
Maejo Sansai Loi Krathong crowd leaving
There were over 20,000 people here

Maejo Chiang Mai Loi Krathong lanternsAs I walked past the spots I spent watching people light their lanterns, I couldn’t help but feel even more frustrated at having spent too much time clicking them.

I even met tourists and other other photographers who invited me to join them. It looked like so much fun, and I was very keen to join them… but I told them I wanted to ‘head on’.

Maejo Sansai Loi Krathong fireworks celebrations
But as Yi Peng celebrations officially began, I was in no mood for any fun

It took me nearly 40 minutes to slowly walk all the way back my tuk tuk. As soon as the driver saw me, he asked me in his broken English, gesturing with his hands whether I saw the big release and got good photos. I shrugged, and said: “Hmmm…”

Leaving Maejo Sansai Yi Peng tuk tuk
It was going to be another long journey back

I came wearing just shorts and a tee, because it was quite hot during the day. But the journey back proved to be rather chilly since I was in a rickshaw, and I tried my best to avoid getting cold.

Ping river bridge lit up crowds Yee Peng
I asked the tuk tuk driver to drop me near Ping River

The events at Mae Jo kicked off Loi Krathong celebrations in Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai krathongs in Ping river
The next two days will see Ping river filled with krathongs

Chiang Mai ping river floats Loi Krathong ThailandPing river floats firework exploding Loi Krathong ThailandThai girl Nawarat bridge Chiang MaiPing river crowds Thai firecrackers Chiang Mai

Yi Peng celebrations Chiang Mai Ping river steps
The river banks on either side were brim with people

Loy Krathong celebrations Chiang Mai ping river bank Thailand

Loi Krathong celebrations Chiang Mai ping river bank firework
(That is a camera’s flash and a firework going off at the same time)

As people flocked to Ping river, I headed the other way, back to my room.

Ping river bridge lit up Chiang MaiToday was a long day. One that started with high hopes and sadly for me, ended on quite a low. To add insult to injury, I could feel my body start to heat up a bit and I feared it was due to the cold breeze I had to endure on the ride back from Sansai. The thought of falling sick lowered my spirits further.

For dinner, I had the left over spring rolls and the banana dessert I made during the cooking class. I was in no mood to eat something better. Took a hot bath and went to bed, disappointed.

 

P.S: For those who are wondering why it was such a the BIG freakin’ deal for me to not be a part of the launch of thousands of lanterns from the Lanna Dhutanka temple, watch this video (preferably in HD). The ‘moment’ starts at 1:46.


Next posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Loi Krathong celebrations; first Grand Parade

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Zoo (Day 4, Part 1)

Thailand 2010: Last day of Loi Krathong; Sunday Grand Parade (Day 4, Part 2)

Thailand 2010: Heading to Chiang Rai by bus, Wat Jedyod and Golden Clock Tower

Thailand 2010: Golden Triangle in Mae Sai; Chiang Rai’s White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

Thailand 2010: Pattaya — Beach road, Viewpoint, Jomtien Beach, Walking Street

Thailand 2010: Back to Bangkok — Chinatown, Patpong, Platinum Mall and Chatuchak Market

Thailand 2010: Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha, Sampeng Market, JJ market (again)

Thailand 2010: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market tour, Cobra show… and leaving Bangkok

Previous posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: First day in Chiang Mai for Loi Krathong; driving up Doi Suthep

Thailand 2010: Arriving in Bangkok and preparing for Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai

Mythology Thai creature lantern Chiang Mai Loi Krathong decorations

Thailand 2010: First day in Chiang Mai for Loi Krathong; driving up Doi Suthep

Date: 19th November 2010

I arrived in Chiang Mai bus station at around 7am and took a taxi to get to Rux Thai Guesthouse which cost ฿80 (Rs. 118/$2.6/€1.8). Rux Thai is a place I stayed last year as well. It’s located just off Loi Kroh road, which is essentially Chiang Mai’s tourist-filled area with the Thapae Gate at one-end and Ping River at the other.

Since I was going to be spending 3 to 4 nights, they gave me a room I requested on the ground floor (because they don’t have a lift) for ฿450 as supposed to the rack rate of ฿490 (Rs. 700/$16/€11) — which includes Wi-Fi. No breakfast included, but they have a restaurant on the ground floor which offers a decent menu at reasonable prices.

Rux Thai restaurant American breakfast Chiang Mai
American breakfast costs ฿90 (Rs.133/$3/€2)

After a hot shower, I took a nap as I barely got any sleep in the bus (as is the norm for me in any bus journey). I got up as it neared lunch time, unpacked and took out all the camera equipment I had bought.

Camera equipment Sirui tripod Canon lens
Credit card abuse for 2010

Though I did test out the Canon 70-200mm f2.8 lens and the tripod before I purchased them, I didn’t get to play around with them as much as I wanted.

Canon 7d 70-200 lens Sirui tripod ballhead test
The tripod & ball head can easily handle the weight of the Canon 7D and the lens
Rux Thai hotel lamp Chiang Mai
My first shot with the Canon 70-200

I loaded the equipment into my backpack and left the room at around 2pm.

Thai Kitchen Cookery Centre Vipa house Chiang Mai
This is Loikroh Lane 1 Road

Other budget hotels on this lane are Centerplace Guesthouse, where you get single rooms starting from 200 baht onwards. Vipa House (the one with yellow board pictured above) is right next to Centerplace and is priced about the same as Rux Thai. (Maybe I should check out Vipa next time).

Though there was a cookery class near Rux Thai, I had already booked myself into another cooking class (which was one of the things I would be doing in Chiang Mai).

I crossed Loi Kroh road and walked pointlessly through the alleyways on the other side.

Thapae Guesthouse Finlay's Cottage Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai bicycles for rent dog
Lazing in the afternoon
Chiang Mai Wat Saen Fang temple Thapae gate
Wat Saen Fang (‘wat’ is Thai for ‘temple’)

Wat Saen Fang road Chiang Mai ThailandInn house Inter bar Chiang Mai ThailandChiang Mai Thapae gate junction bikes

Dirt bike rentals Chiang Mai Thapae road
You can rent these
Kawasaki superbike for rent Chiang Mai
But the more sexy the bike looks, the more expensive they are to rent
Thapae gate road fountain Chiang Mai
I walked all the way around and got to Kotchasarn Road

I chose to eat lunch at the same cosy small eatery I ate at last year.

Chiang Mai Food & Drink restaurant Thapae road
Run by a mother and daughter duo
Chiang Mai small eatery cheap food
It’s inexpensive and the food is good
Chiang Mai rice seafood dry meal Thailand
Spicy prawns and calamari with rice, ฿40  (Rs. 60/$1.3/€1)

After lunch, I rented a moped from the travel agent in front of Vipa House and decided to go on a drive around Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai Marijuana store Thailand
I highly doubt it
Chiang Mai canal Thapae gate road
I parked on the other side to click a few photos

Moon Mueang road canal Chiang Mai cityChiang Mai pigeon feeding

Yi Peng festival announcement Billboard Chiang Mai
The poster (I’m guessing) was confirming that Loy Krathong celebrations were definitely November 20th to 22nd this year

Though, I did ask around to find out when exactly the release of the hundreds of lanterns at once was going to be. From research online, I did learn that the event was something that is held at some University grounds at a place called Mae Jo, but when I asked the people at Rux Thai, they weren’t sure about anything. (Communication is a bit of an issue in Thailand, despite how touristy this country is)

Chiang Mai gate Thailand
Chiang Mai gate

Chiang Mai gate tourists

Chiang Mai Thapae gate floats
They had floats in the canals which children were riding and jumping off of

Thapae gate canal floats Loy Krathong afternoon lightsChiang Mai Thapae gate fountains

Chiang Mai city canal fountains
I got back on my bike and moved on

Chiang Mai gate gardenI planned to ride up Doi Suthep on the outskirts of the city, which wasn’t too far away. The route is quite simple really, plus I had done last year. Chiang Mai city isn’t as complex as say, Bangkok. As I got towards the road leading up to Doi Suthep hill, I stopped again to take photographs.

Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya parking Chiang Mai

Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University Chiang Mai campus
The name of this place? Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University (try saying that fast)

Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya Wat Chiang MaiHuey Kaew fitness park Chiang Mai panoramaChiang Mai way to Doi Suthep hillI wanted to drive up the hill as I loved the ride last year. I wasn’t planning to drive all the way up to the temple, just up until the last view point before the temple.

Doi Suthep hill national park temple
Stopped at a small temple on the way

Doi Suthep national park temple flower shops

Chiang Mai Doi Suthep national park observation deck
There’s a small waterfall up here

Doi Suthep hill mini waterfall panorama

Doi Suthep hill pro-cycling Chiang Mai
Doi Suthep is very popular among speed cyclists
Doi Suthep hill bike riders Chiang Mai
Bikers, cars, superbikes… you’ll see everybody enjoying the ride
Honda Icon moped scooter rental Chiang Mai Thailand
This was my ride (฿200 for 24 hours)
Chiang Mai Doi Suthep cyclists
It was starting to get dark
Doi Suthep hill road corner turning panorama
Panorama comprised of 10 shots

It was at this hairpin bend that the viewpoint was located.

Chiang Mai Doi Suthep viewing point

Doi Suthep hill view Chiang Mai sunset
You can’t actually see the sun set from this side

I set up the tripod because I knew I would be pitch dark soon.

Chiang Mai Doi Suthep full moon vertical panorama
It was a full moon
Chiang Mai full moon Thailand
Shot at 200mm & cropped

Chiang Mai city at night panoramaChiang Mai Doi Suthep observation deck at nightAs it neared 7pm, I packed up and left the viewpoint. I drove back down and this time, I took my jacket with me… because last year, I froze! 🙂

Once back in the city, I parked on the side when I saw some beautiful decorations in front of Saun Dok Gate .

Saun Dok gate Chiang Mai garden lanterns

Chiang Mai Thapae gate lanterns localsMythology Thai creature lantern Chiang Mai Loi Krathong decorationsChiang Mai Thapae gate traditional lanternsMythical creatures lanterns decorations Chiang Mai Loy KrathongSaun Dok Gate Chiang Mai Yi Ping festivalMythical bird lantern Thapae gate Chiang MaiYee Peng lantern festival Thais Chiang Mai ThapaeI headed back to Loi Kroh road.

After parking the bike in front of the hotel, I stepped out again, this time choosing to go by foot.

Chiang Mai Loi Kroh road Thailand
Walked down Loi Kroh road
Le Meridien Loi kroh road Chiang Mai Thailand
If you want your 5-star fix, there is Le Meridien
Changklan road restaurants Chiang Mai Thailand
At the end of Loi Kroh is Changklan road
Changklan road traffic Chiang Mai Thailand
Plenty of restaurants, hotels and stores here

CM night bazaar hotel Chiang Mai Thailand

Night bazaar clothes Chiang Mai
I walked to Chiang Mai’s night bazaar
Anusarn market Chiang Mai seafood restaurant
Plenty of good seafood restaurants here

Anusarn grilled seafood Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai night market panorama
The night market sells the usual gamut of clothing, accessories and home decor

Chiang Mai night market light decorated treeChiang Mai night market light decorations storeI wasn’t hungry and wanted to know where all the major Yi Peng celebrations in Chiang Mai would be. I was told that the major gathering point would be along Ping River.

Chiang Mai night street lamp
I walked away from the bustling crowds near the night market
Chiang Mai full moon night sky lanterns
I could already see lanterns in the sky
Chiang Mai cathedral at night
I ended up taking a turn back to a main road
Chiang Mai night empty streets
To be frank, after 15 minutes of walking, I didn’t know where I was
Ping Nakara boutique hotel spa Chiang Mai
Ping Nakara Boutique Hotel & spa
Wat Chaimongkol temple entrance Chiang Mai night
Walked towards this big temple
Wat Chaimongkol temple entrance Chiang Mai night
I was bored of walking, so I went in

Wat Chaimongkol Ping river Chiang Mai

Wat Chaimongkol Thai devotees Loi krathong Chiang Mai
Devotees were slowly trickling in to the temple to float Krathongs

Wat Chaimongkol boat Ping river Chiang Mai nightWat Chaimongkol devotees Loy Krathong Chiang MaiWat Chaimongkol temple building Chiang MaiWat Chaimongkol temple Thai goddess Chiang Mai nightWat Chaimongkol inside Chiang Mai nightAs I walked out, I saw a ‘roti’ vendor on the way out and decided to eat something as it was getting late.

Wat Chaimongkol roti vendor Chiang Mai
‘Roti’ in Thailand is commonly referred to sweet pancake batter filled with banana and other fillings

As I walked back, I realized I took a much longer route as the temple itself was not to far from the night market.

Chiang Mai food garden Anusarn market
I just needed to walk through the food court and come out the other end

Chiang Mai night alley grafitti

Chiang Mai night bridge light decorations
I walked to the bridges over Ping River

Chiang Mai Ping river University girl

Chiang Mai Loi Krathongs ping river bridge Thai boys
Loi Krathong celebrations had already begun… for some
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong firecracker Thai students
Firecrackers are very much a part of the celebrations
Chiang Mai Loi Krathong ping river bridge crowds
I went from one bridge to another
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong Ping river bridge lights
There are several bridges all along Ping River

Chiang Mai Lam Phun roadChiang Mai bridge lighting decorations Yi Peng festival
Chiang Mai Loy Krathong ping river fireworks

Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Thai youngsters
Chiang Mai’s youth were all out to enjoy the festivities
Chiang Mai Thais lining streets Loi Krathong
Lined all along the streets snacking, singing and having a few beers with their friends

Chiang Mai Yi Peng festival ping river treesChiang Mai Loi Krathong Yi Peng river bridge lit upChiang Mai Loy Krathong Ping river Thai girls celebrationsChiang Mai Loy Krathong floats designsChiang Mai Loi Krathong float designs

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong people firecrackers
The banks of Ping river saw its share of revelers too
Chiang Mai Ping river pedestrian bridge night
Moved to another bridge

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong lit up bridge touristsChiang Mai Loi Krathong Ping river bank Thais firecrackersChiang Mai Loy Krathong revelers pedestrian overbridgeChiang Mai Yi Peng festival lights decorationsChiang Mai Loy Krathong overbridge

Chiang Mai Loy Krathong ping river bridge matchbox
No surprises there

Chiang Mai Yi Peng river fireworks celebrationsChiang Mai Loy Krathong ping river bridge fireworksChiang Mai Loy Krathong ping bridge Thai couple lantern

Chiang Mai market Loi Krathong flowers on sale
Flowers, lots of flowers
Chiang Mai market Loi Krathong ping river bank
The markets were still bustling at this time
Chiang Mai market snacks for sale
Had to get down to ground level for a closer look
Chiang Mai market Lord Ganesha poster
Switched to the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 lens for the next few shots

Chiang Mai market lotus buds

Chiang Mai krathongs for sale Thailand
These are ‘krathongs’
Chiang Mai market Krathongs for sale
The base is made using a thick slice of banana plant stem

Chiang Mai market Loi Krathong flower garlandsChiang Mai market Loi Krathong flower shopsThe Frenchman in the above photo and I got talking, though I don’t remember how the conversation got started. Maybe I was wearing my ‘It’s Football, Not Soccer‘ t-shirt which has my website’s logo at the back and so he gave me his blog’s domain as well.

Chiang Mai meat market Yi Peng festival rush
That is a *lot* of slain pigs

Chiang Mai market flower shop designsChiang Mai market flower vendors Thailand

Chiang Mai paper lanterns for sale
Paper lanterns on sale (prices ranges from ฿20 to ฿60 depending on size)

Chiang Mai market Yi Peng festival flower shop ladyChiang Mai market Loi Krathong flower shopChiang Mai market flower bouquetsChiang Mai market Loi Krathong paper wrapped flowersI called it a night after this and headed back to my room.

Chiang Mai Loi Krathong Yi Peng city decorations
Can’t wait to see what the city has in store the next three days

Chiang Mai city night traffic

I had my dinner from a rather nice joint on the same lane as Rux Thai. Lovely pork spring rolls and a can of beer (came to ฿200). I hit the sack early because I needed more sleep. Tomorrow was going to be any early morning, for I had to get ready to learn how to make Thai curry!


Next posts in this series:

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai cooking class; Loi Krathong celebrations in Mae Jo, Sansai

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Loi Krathong celebrations; first Grand Parade

Thailand 2010: Chiang Mai Zoo (Day 4, Part 1)

Thailand 2010: Last day of Loi Krathong; Sunday Grand Parade (Day 4, Part 2)

Thailand 2010: Heading to Chiang Rai by bus, Wat Jedyod and Golden Clock Tower

Thailand 2010: Golden Triangle in Mae Sai; Chiang Rai’s White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

Thailand 2010: Pattaya — Beach road, Viewpoint, Jomtien Beach, Walking Street

Thailand 2010: Back to Bangkok — Chinatown, Patpong, Platinum Mall and Chatuchak Market

Thailand 2010: Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha, Sampeng Market, JJ market (again)

Previous post in this series:

Thailand 2010: Arriving in Bangkok and preparing for Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai

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