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cambodia

Royal Palace Phnom Penh Cambodia

Cambodia: Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh

Date: 12 May 2018

After starting our day with a very early river cruise along the Mekong, we decided to visit the Royal Palace of Phnom Penh instead of heading back to our hotel for breakfast right away.

We saw a wedding party lined up bearing gifts
Phnom Penh wedding party
The groom and his side of the family were waiting for their time to enter the wedding hall nearby
Cyclists morning Phnom Penh
The Riverside promenade is a popular draw for locals
Pigeons Phnom Penh Cambodia
We were dropped off at the Royal Palace Park
Royal Palace park Phnom Penh
Families, tourists, school children… and lots of pigeons at this park
Royal Palace road Phnom Penh
The road in front of the Royal Palace is closed off to private vehicles
Royal Palace rules Cambodia
The Royal Palace opens at 8am. Here are the rules.
Cute girl pigeon feather
Since we had to wait for the entry gates to open, my girlfriend picked up a pigeon feather and posed for the camera. (We had nothing else to do)
Entry gate Royal Palace Phnom Penh
As soon as the gates opened, we went in. There were less than 30 people at this time.
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Construction boom Phnom Penh Cambodia

Cambodia: Mekong River Sunrise Cruise… and an insight into Chinese investment in the region

Date: 12 May 2018

After spending all of yesterday visiting Choeung Ek genocidal center, Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and exploring other sights in Phnom Penh, we woke up really early to go for a sunrise cruise on the Mekong river. I booked the tour with Memorable Cambodia. It cost $20 per person for the 5:30am trip.

Early morning Mekong cruise
We were picked up from our hotel by a tricycle taxi the tour company organized for us and dropped off near the starting point
Mekong cruise boat seats
The cruise boat was two decks but we were the only passengers so it was pretty much a private cruise for us. We went to the upper deck.
Cambodia sunrise Mekong river
When we set off, the sun had just opened its eyes
Mekong river ferry service Phnom Penh
Cambodians were starting their day
Ferry service Phnom Penh
Many ferry boats were transporting passengers and vehicles from one side of the river to another

While we were served juices and freshly cut fruits, I could not help but notice the stark contrast between the two sides.

Construction boom Phnom Penh Cambodia
This side of Phnom Penh you had several tall buildings coming up

The minute I stepped out of Phnom Penh airport, I could not help but notice the amount construction going on in the city, much of it by Chinese companies. There are projects funded by Korean and Japanese companies too but the Chinese investment far outnumbered those.

I used the opportunity of having a local Phnom Penh resident (who could also speak English) with us to ask him about China’s growing presence in his country. I started by asking him about the high rise apartment buildings coming up in Phnom Penh.

Cambodia tour guide
I’m blurring his face… when you get to the part about Hun Sen, you’ll know why

He told me most of these luxury apartments are built by Chinese companies for Chinese buyers. Only a few Cambodians can afford them so the majority are bought by Mainland Chinese as real estate investments and only a few migrating to Phnom Penh. He told me about how some Chinese are buying multiple apartments, sometimes an entire floor of apartments to spend their new found wealth (and in some cases, illicit wealth too). Reading about Chinese buying apartments in Phnom Penh — it’s certainly not cheap. According to this Reuters article from 2018, the average going rate is $350 (Rs. 24,000) per square feet. Very expensive considering the average Cambodian in Phnom Penh earns less than $1000 per month. But as stated, Cambodians are not the primary customer target for these builders.

Chinese buying property abroad is nothing new. They are now amongst the highest buyers of property in places like Vancouver, UK, Australia, Singapore and United States. Buying expensive property (or property that foreigners are eligible to buy) is usually a path to migration and many Chinese are taking advantage of it, especially the newly rich and upper middle class. Those who can’t afford the global cities of the “first” world are looking to countries like Cambodia, where property is still cheaper than the big Chinese cities like Shanghai, Beijing and Shenzhen.

Our host was a young college graduate who after completing his degree in tourism, he and his batchmates started a tourism company. He also had a lot to say about Cambodia’s “corrupt politicians” in power and how they are basically “selling Cambodia” to the Chinese. It may sound like an exaggeration coming from the youth complaining about politicians but when you hear about how in 2008, a Chinese company was granted a 99-year lease to around 20% of the kingdom’s total coastline at the modest price of US$30 per hectare, he’s not that wrong to think that way.

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Tuol Sleng prison cells Cambodia

Cambodia: S21, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Date: 11 May, 2018

We began our morning visiting the infamous “Killing Fields” — Choeung Ek genocidal center. It wasn’t a pleasant place but it’s what most foreign tourists coming to Phnom Penh see without fail. Well, that and S21 — the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum — which is where we were headed next.

Phnom Penh trike bridge
We asked the tricycle taxi driver to drop us off at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum next
Phnom Penh countryside
We were going back the same way we came
Phnom Penh highway Cambodia
This is Chamkar Doung Street
Cambodia riding opposite direction
Another reminder Cambodia is no better than India — yes, our driver was riding in the opposite direction of traffic
Tuol Sleng Genocide museum entry fee
We had a quick lunch from an eatery nearby and then entered the Tuol Sleng genocide museum

Entry costs $8 per adult with an audio guide. It’s $5 without the audio guide device.

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